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Pump is running 24/7 at 1500rpm. Filter pressure has gone up 1-1.5psi. I tested for a lot of things and there isn't much. Iron is 0.02, which is way under 0.3ppm that should cause issues. And it went from fine to this overnight. I can see the bottom on the shallow end (3.5'), but can't see the...

Checked at 3pm and it was 14.5, so whether algae or sun, FC has gone down at least.

I tested yesterday at 5pm when I noticed it was green and dosed to 18ppm, then 6ppm it was really 19.5, then 7pm it was 21, then 10:30pm it was 18, then today at 7:30am it was 17.5, then 10:30am it was 17.5. I have not added since 5pm yesterday because the FC has not dropped below the SLAM value.

I just vacuumed after a week and it looks completely normal. Some leaves and dirt. Checked FC again 3 hours lately, still 17.5, so in 12 hours it's only gone down 0.5. Here's a pic of the area where the main drain is, I can't see it at all though. 2 days ago you could see the screws.

I did a full test 7/27 after adjusting everything, but can redo if needed. FC-17.5 from this morning CC-0 from this morning pH-7.2 by calculation after measuring 7.8 yesterday TA - 90 (7/27) a little lower with new acid addition CH - 450 (7/27) CYA - 40 (7/27)

I just fill the view tube to a line, then glance at waist level. If you see it, add water to the next line, then glance again until you don't quickly and confidently see the dot. The scale is non-linear, so between lines on the tube don't matter. Staring at it and adding a few drops at a time...

I have more things that don't make sense. This is algae right? I added chlorine to SLAM level at 5pm last night and was prepared to add every hour. At 6pm, it was a little higher than calculated, at 7pm, it was even higher than that. I tested at 10:30pm and it went down 3ppm to 18. I just tested...

I do leave a solar cover on most weekdays. Maybe that is the issue, affecting circulation and CC oxidation. I run my pump 10 hours/day currently. Should I open the pool every other day at least, or something like that? I brush what the robot can't reach and let it vacuum 1-2 times a week. With...

This is my first year with the pool, but I have kept up with chlorine. Opened the pool today to add chlorine to be surprised by cloudy green water. I just tested and got FC-5, CC-0. CYA is 40, pH 7.8. Is there anyway I could get algae with my FC never dropping below minimum? I'm guessing I have...

I got mine installed no problem, even though it is a huge breaker. Haven't had any trips yet.

Yep, that's exactly what I was going to build to hook to the sump pump.

I figured I would update. I got a $50 sump pump and ran it with garden hoses to exchange water. I ran it for 36 hours the first time and got the CYA from ~120-160ish down to 70. I ran it for another 22 hours after that and it's in between 40-50 now, which I'm fine with. New test results: pH -...

Ok, I just don't want to run into scaling issues. I am draining 2/3 of my water now to resolve high CYA and will have to add Ca to get the hardness up to whatever the goal is.

Previous posts and the wiki say 250-350ppm for a plaster pool without SWG. The new pool school recommendations are 350-550ppm, which is a huge difference. Which level is correct, or why did the recommendation go up so much?

We're at 2000ft, but we do have 2 lakes, a river, and creek within 10 miles, so it's probably not worth risking. I'll just exchange until CYA is low enough.

I am not sure about the water table. The best I could find from a while ago is a well near me had water 88ft down, not sure if that even answers the question. It is going to be 80s and dry the next couple weeks though. Exchanging seems like my only option, so I will do that. I'm guessing it...

Ok. Current TA is 110, fill is 186. If I replace 60% of the water, it would be 155. Pool is 20k, so 1 gal of acid would lower it 25, so to get to a TA of 70 would be about 3 1/3 gals of acid, so that's not bad. Going from 7.8 to 6.8pH is only a half gallon though, so it will be a process. So...

I think the pool is pretty blue, maybe with a slight green cast, but I might just be imagining it looking for iron. No brown though and no iron issues in the house. There is a 1.5" fire hose next to the pool for the purpose of filling it I think, so I'm guessing it's fine. Is there a way to...

Actually, the level that makes iron a problem is 0.3ppm, right? I misread and the report says 0.02ppm, so it should be fine, right?

I need to do a partial drain to reduce CYA and just got my well water test back. Is this ok to directly fill the pool with? I am assuming the previous owners just used hose water and it looks ok. There is a softener in the house, though I'm not sure it would be ok to pull 10k gallons through it...

Just a dirty grey color. Looking up plaster mottling, that's what it looks like. And it looks like resurfacing is the only solution, so I guess I'll just live with it. The amount of threads of this happening within months of replastering is concerning too if you're hoping for that to fix the issue.

I have researched this to death and still can't confidently decide. Our electricity is cheap, 8-10¢, which is pushing me towards the superflo. It's a $320 difference, which is almost half the cost of the Superflo more to get the Intelliflo. I don't think there's any programming or functionality...

This is pretty much exactly the summary of the info I have found. I doubt there would be any issues, but pictures of melted boxes being blamed on non-UL rated breakers is concerning. Amazon has a Siemens box for $24 (though you have to add a ground bar), so it's pretty low cost and effort to be...

After several brushings and vacuumings, this is what the staining looks like. It's the worst along the wall/floor junction and scattered on the floor.

Half the label is gone and it's old looking.

Yeah, so I'll probably try the Siemens breaker first at least and switch to the Pentair if necessary. Either I just put the Siemens breaker in the GE box or add another subpanel out there just for that breaker. Eaton looks like they are the most compatible with other brands. Siemens and GE with...

I'll check again, but searching, it looks like GE only says they use GE breakers. And it looks like Siemens says their breakers are not rated for other boxes.

I am going to install a new variable speed pump (probably an intelliflo). They want you to use their breaker that is $45 more than the Siemens equivalent that I haven't been able to tell if there's even a difference. My bigger question though, is I have a GE box in the equipment room currently...

Thanks, that's what I was planning on, just a couple weeks til they're in stock.

Ok. The robot has been pretty impressive, and insanely easy, so far. There is a 30" hayward for $800 that splits the difference in cost, but is still double the sand dollar. I'll probably just go with the SD80. I bought some hairnets from a link on here, or so I thought, and just got beard nets...