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Awesome! Glad you got it figured out.

This is very true. Your pH will rise as long as the laws of Physics and Chemistry hold. Allowing your pH to drift up a bit will not appreciably affect your chlorine's ability to sanitize. Other water parameters may need to change if you are concerned with the CSI or LSI.

If you are getting nothing but green and losing no chlorine overnight, I certainly would suspect copper reacting with the chlorine. You seem to realize that a chelating agent won't remove the copper and that will depend on another step. If you are committed to this course of action SC-1000 is...

That was a typo. Relax...

Be sure you understand this in its entirety before you start. You are going to need a lot of 4 lb boxes of Borax and even more muriatic acid. If you put in the Borax without having the MA at hand, your pH will fly off of the chart! If you need to increase CH, Amazon, not the pool store, is...

From TFP, "Borates help prevent algae. Borates won't completely prevent algae from growing, but they do slow down algae growth and make it easier to kill off when you do get algae." Anything that "slow down algae growth and make it easier to kill off," by definition, decreases chlorine demand...

Awesome progress! Watch your filter pressures, too, those dead little plants gotta go somewhere...

If you choose to add borates, you can drop your chlorine use (probably) by about a 1/3. The water does feel softer and has a beautiful sheen. Borates also buffer against pH rise (as opposed to CYA and total alkalinity buffering against pH dropping). Borates are an algaestat NOT an algaecide...

From the pool tests you post, I believe you need to add chlorine as your CC seems to suggest a nascent algae bloom is imminent. Your pool is also not balanced. So, I suggest that you do a bit of reading, here, on recommended chlorine levels for your CYA level (which is a bit too low, too) and...

For those that asked: My citations would be found (among other places) in this forum and were posted by Waterbear, Chemgeek, Ben Powell, Robert Lowry, and others. This will get you started. I measure my chlorine loss by plotting the runtime of my chlorine injector pump necessary to keep...

OK, folks, this is going nowhere. You do not have any empirical evidence, you only have anecdotal evidence and opinion. If there are no citations of scientific observation all you have is "the word on the street."

I have lived in hot climates my entire life, so I am certainly familiar with 98°F and 95% humidity. My pool water has, on occasion, flirted with triple digits. Currently, I am losing about 1.21 ppm of chlorine per day and that will probably go up some in July-August as the water temperature...

I'm not advocating anything. I am, however, stating the scientific fact that, in an average residential pool, if the water chemistry is managed properly, there is no need for more than 4 ppm of chlorine, barring an event of exceptional bather load or an organic "accident". I think people get...

Yeah, I'm torn on this one. First, everybody has given you excellent advice, but there is one gotcha to consider. I'd look back through all of the paperwork with a fine-toothed comb concerning warranty. Based on what you find in the fine print and the legalese and the conversations you are...

As mentioned above, let's get the figures from ONE test process and your best choice is the Taylor kit. The numbers posted make us lean toward certain fixes, but those numbers clearly didn't come from a Taylor kit.

That is certainly true, but as I said, if you "put in the best chlorine system you can afford, manage your chemistry properly, [you can] enjoy the benefits of chlorine maintenance values of 4 PPM or less" without having that problem. TFP doesn't recommend that much CYA.

As stated, it is a supplemental sanitizer, meant to decrease the reliance on the primary sanitizer. In a commercial pool with long hours a high bather load UV might be a helpful system. However, I doubt one would ever recoup the purchase price in a residential pool. I thought I clearly summed...

Moved from HERE One CAN prove if a UV light is working properly or not. The problem is homeowners don't have the tools to accomplish the task, so it just doesn't get done. The bottom line is that I suspect most UV owners just assume it is working. That logical argument, however, I think, is...

My personal go-to is Orenda PR-10000. I've found that once you bring the phosphates under 125ppb, that is good for 2-3 years. Your location may dictate otherwise. I'm next to a river, surrounded by a forest, wetlands, and a swamp. Every couple of years works for me. Don't add any phosphate...

Yeah, to answer your question, adding an acid and a base together sounds pretty sketchy. However, adding Sodium Bicarbonate increases (only) alkalinity (which buffers against the pH dropping). Adding Muriatic Acid lowers pH AND alkalinity. So, the newest information I have been able to glean...

Likely, it is, and is expected. Keep filtering 24/7 and watch the filter pressure. It is going to take some time to get the resultant phosphate compounds out of your water and your filter will clog quickly and frequently. Keep your chlorine values up. Some disagree, but I manage phosphates...

My personal position on UV systems is that they are good at what they are designed to do, but having said that, I don't know of ANY residential pool that would benefit from UV (or ozone, for that matter). My recommendation would be to install a chlorine injection pump and find a good supplier...

At this point, it seems that you are preparing to do battle with a mostly unknown and unquantified enemy. Personally, I strongly suggest testing your well water with the K-2006 and with a K-1730 and K-1716. Normally, I wouldn't necessarily suggest this, but you need to KNOW what kind of fill...

You probably want to suspend using those pucks until next year and start using liquid chlorine, instead. Your CYA is already too high, but it may drop over the winter. Do the reading as suggested above and make an informed decision as to whether you want to keep free chlorine above 7 ppm or do...

Yes, this is true, but most people start with 90 and adjust according to their particular pool. My pool doesn't care much for 90, either.

You may note that I suggested not doing anything until the water was changed and the situation was tested. The water is currently at TA 90 as it should be. Surely a 55,000 gallon pool is not vinyl and, thus, CH should be increased to 350. All of this per published TFP standards.

Yes, the Taylor K-2006C-SALT comes with everything you need including case, factory hardware, and factory instructions.

Sadly, draining 50% of the pool is the best way to start. That being said, do that first, because you are going to throw away 50% of any chemicals you add before draining. Once CYA is squared away, you can get the pH, and Chlorine in order. Yes, you need to bring CH up to 350 and keep TA at...

There are good, but not affordable tests. The big box stores (Corporate) consider a 6-month shelf life as a limit, but the local stores will sell it as long as people buy it. Powell and Miox used to have online or downloadable calculators, but I'm not sure they are still obtainable. I recall...

Add chlorine at least once daily. There is nothing inherently evil about the puck, as they have their uses. Pucks add chlorine and [something else]. If that something is CYA, you will rather quickly have too much CYA in the pool. If that something is Calcium, you will end up with too much of...