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I’ve had the same issue with my Active 40 since new. The full indicator would come on before there was hardly anything in the filter basket, now it stays on all the time. I’ve thoroughly cleaned the filters and checked the impeller. I talked to the tech at Marina Pool who suggested checking the...

250? Even in a plaster pool? I thought CH was especially important to keep in the recommended range with plaster.

Has there been a change to pool math?

My checklist for vacation: Bump up chlorine output slightly Balance chems Set water at normal level Close skimmer completely Open main drain Turn off heater Put in frog log Lock gates

I may be able confirm that I am one of the folks that answered your post on Reddit and I may or may not have expressed an opinion that your project manager is a less than well informed individual. As a result I have been banned from that Reddit sub. I am heartbroken but I hope that comparing the...

This is 4 weeks after the AA treatment and water exchange?

Well, we can add another data point to the FC crash after calcium chloride addition study. FC tested 7.5. Added 11 lbs calcium chloride. Knew enough to check FC an hour later. FC was at 5.5.

A cheap ‘reacher/grabber’ from the dollar store and an 8oz plastic container. Get the sample from ‘elbow’ depth with barely bending over.

(ahem) Aquasalt (ahem ahem)

I bet the new r11 drops look exactly like the one you have now.

That is my understanding.

I did not think that the drops from the various titrating solutions were supposed to all be the same size. I’ve been through multiple bottles of the r-0011L and the drops were all on the small side.

The iron is coming from the salt. Opened a perfectly stain free pool this year after struggling with iron stains for three years. The difference? Used Aquasalt last year with a complete water exchange. Just sayin’

My pool has turned green and I don’t know why. My pool store says my levels are perfect and my test strips agree most of the time. Test results from the fancy machine at the pool store show my CYA is around 100 or so and the pool store guy said that’s good. I keep my FC at the perfect 1 to 3 ppm...

I get them on Amazon. Have had no issues with them.

You talking about an area rug? I learned my lesson with those. Mold, mildew, dirt stain on the deck which is difficult to remove.

The sensor tip is replaceable. Should be changed yearly.

No they have Pool Essentials liquid chlorine.

You should try Aquasalt the next time along with a more complete water replacement.

DE does seem to be a pain. Don’t know why anyone would want that bother. I don’t ’deep clean’. Never have. Between the skimmer nets, robot vac, and never using floc or any other magic pool store potions, there just isn’t any need.

I’ll never see any advantage of cartridge over sand. A sand filter takes 5 minutes to clean with no mess and effort and just 50 cents worth of water, compared to 30 minutes with a cartridge filter and probably using almost the same amount of water to hose the filter off. 50 cents worth of water...

Why would you want to switch from sand to cartridge?

Curious what makes you think cartridge is an upgrade?

What brand salt?

I don’t keep track. Could have been from Lowe’s, Walmart, HD, Ace.

I never used Clorox brand salt but I still believe the iron stains I had came from whatever salt brand I was using.

The tarp method is the most efficient way of exchanging the water without emptying the pool. Just spread a plastic tarp over the pool, with minimum overlap equal to the height of the pool sides. Weight the edges, I used some firewood I had handy. Using sections of hose and a water transfer pump...

I battled the same iron issue. After 2 years of trial and error, I determined that the iron had to be coming from the salt I was using. I was using various brands from the big box stores. I finally bit the bullet and used Aquasalt. No more iron staining. As far as water exchange, I have used the...