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Yes, as far as I know it’s flagstone.

The leak detection company ran a bead of waterproof epoxy up under the length of those capstones. The bead is thick enough that it really seems like it would have stopped any leak up under the capstone but who knows. The water level does seem to drain down very close to where the tile meets the...

Pool/spa configuration.

This is the lowest level that it goes down to, just below the capstone.

Absolutely, I’ll post some pictures first thing in the morning.

My spillover hot tub drains down to the same level every night which is just below the sandstone cap (between 2-3 inches) that makes up the spillover. I have had the same leak detection company out twice to diagnose the leak and they did apply some epoxy to a suspect area (receded mortar between...

Thanks for the info. I’ll try that today.

Honestly I didn’t know if it was cemented or screwed on. I‘ll definitely try that.

I have intermittent bubbles rising from the jet opening shown in the picture. The bubbles are coming from the small clearance between the pebble tec surface and the gray jet housing. I tried to capture a photo as best I could of the bubbles. I should add that I also have intermittent bubbles...

Looks like a new pump it is. Thanks.

Motor/Pump is starting to make a lot of noise so I’m sure the bearings need to be replaced. The motor is a Century B668. I’ve searched and searched and I’m not able to find part numbers for the bearings. Does anyone know which bearings this motor uses? And is it advisable to replace bearings or...

Thank you! I appreciate the help.

Not sure if I’m posting this in the correct section but I have a white flaky material that is showing up in my pool and most notably in my hot tub. The flakes will crumble and have the same consistency as salt or sand when you rub it between your fingers. Per my system my salt level is at 3050...

I’ll get the salt tested elsewhere tomorrow.

85 degrees as of this afternoon.

Followed what’s in the video and disconnected the temp portion of the flow switch and I’m back to a green cell light and not a red low salt indicator. Given that doing this sets a default temp of 77 im guessing I do need to add an external temp probe to take the place of the flow switches...

Just ran the test and the cell displayed the 20% light after pressing and holding the “More” button and then it displayed the 80% and the 100% lights after pressing the ”More” button again. So am I reading the chart correctly that it‘s temp reading is the 86-95 degree range??

Still fighting the issue of my IC40 cell calculating a low salt reading of 2650 and the k-1776 giving a result of 4K. As stated above I recently replaced the flow switch and it did rectify a no/zero salt reading per my system however the reading has yet to be accurate according to my k-1776 kit...

Following, experiencing the same issue.

Sorry, I forgot to add that my cell light is not on. So should I add enough salt to make my cell “happy”? And by doing so should that kick the cell light back on?

So I need some more guidance. I pulled the white wire from the flow switch back on the 28th and sure enough the salt indicator light on the cell went from red to green and as expected my ScreenLogic app showed a salt level of 0. After the heavy rains we received the other day in the DFW...

Thanks for the clarification. And just to make sure I’m clear, when I cut either the white or green wire and if I see an increase in the salt level then it’s just the thermistor thats bad. But if I don’t see an increase then my flow switch is bad?

And if I may ask because I’m curious, but would this also be a temperature sensor in my system? This is mounted on the pipe leading from my main pump into my filter housing (Inlet).