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Got help from @ogdento and had to remove the J23 jumper on the board and perform an update to make it an Easytouch 8.

Hey folks, I got an Easytouch 4 and would like to update it to an 8 but after adding the 1k ohm resistor at the board, its not recognized as an 8. Could it be that pentair caught this hack and now its preventing it?

Hey folks! I just installed a Pentair Easytouch 4 (converted to 8) and I am setting it up as we speak... I dont see any option to select Hayward Colorlogic lights, are these systems compatible? I came from the Pentair intelliconnect system which is smaller and was able to control the colorlogic...

That is great to hear! Do you know if there are any differences in the RS boards revisions? B0029221 REV T / T1 / T2?

ok so from what I have read, it looks like i have a 50 pin board and I can change to a 50 pin RS board to do the iAqualink upgrade, is that correct?

Yes it is the PDA PS8 Combo version, however we dont have the PDA anymore, it got lost somehow.

Hey guys, so my buddy has an iAqualink panel and we installed a Pendair Intelliflo VS to replace the pump... We did program the pump in the iAqualink web app and set it as our filter pump.. Everything was working right, however when we changed the schedule then the web app would no longer work...

Has anyone had issues with Maytronics warranty? I sent a Maytronics Quantum robot to get it checked & repaired under warranty because it was turning on and cleaned for about 4-5 minutes and it would stop. They received the robot and sent back another used unit but with a "new motor" but same old...

looks good!

I have built two pools, but the plaster phase has been subcontracted. The first contractor did it as you described, they mixed on the mixer and used a wheelbarrow to take the mix into the pool. I did not see if they mixed the bags with sand but doubt it.. The second pool, the crew used the pmm...

are you doing a deck around this? if not then i would definitely fill them with mortar.

I agree with above.... Just get 4 people inside the pool, mix 90% of the plaster bags with shovels and work it :)

Everything is possible but it will be expensive, the pipes have to go below the frost line, I believe PA is 24"? Also you have to move electrical and that will require more conduit and an underground junction box or new wiring from your main to the pool sub.

84 but i am in Puerto Rico :)

looks like a clean setup, however I hate those 3 way valves! I used 5 on my setup and within less than a year, 2 of them have cracked on me and had them replaced..

just use regular sanded grout of your color choice, there is no need to buy that pool grout product IMO... Most pool builders use sanded grout

I dont think its that bad, maybe they can try some diamond pad around those areas..

stone depth + gunite thickness + plaster thickness + desire depth + 6" waterline is your desire dig.... rebar is trapped inside the gunite so there is no need to add it to the formula

this is normal

inyo pools have some nice diagrams, the SWG goes after the heater

The only concern could be cracking on the plaster in the area that was repaired.. This is in Maryland and you do have some big temperature fluctuations during the year. They should use a higher strength concrete for structural repairs (6000 psi+), Rapidset makes great stuff... Ask them what kind...

I would definitely get an engineering diagram because if you dont have one and subs start to do the work and make a mistake then it will be hard to make them accountable. The only subs that could do the work without an engineering diagram are the coping and tile, decking and plaster crews but...

anything is possible, they would need to break the concrete and extend the bubbler. This should have been caught by the project manager before gunite it was an easy fix.