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We have a 20 year old gunite pool and wanted to replace the pool and spa lights with a new LED unit. Last year, the electrician easily pulled out the pool light (junction box a few feet from pool deck has 3 conduits, 1 to pool light, 1 to spa light (much further than pool light) and 1 to panel)...

Once I core out the deck around the pipes (using a 2" core drill through the 4" deck), is there anything else preventing their removal? For instance, do the stainless pipes extend beyond the bottom of the deck and are embedded in something or is there a flange or otherwise under the deck? db

I have found in the past that reducing runtime leads to some incremental algae growth. However, that was before switching to SWG and being far more diligent about chemical levels. I will experiment with runtime this season (opening in 2 weeks). db

Good idea for the plywood. I was going to use a 2" bit for the pipe (standard) and a 1" bit for the stub (rebar?) that the spring sits on. db

Looks like the core drill is the way to go! I still might have to grind the stub for the spring, but maybe I can get a smaller core, say 1" for that. I can cut the tubes down with a reciprocating saw - less flying metal; can drape a tarp between the cutting and the pool also, then blow/wash the...

Pool is 23k gal. I think I would need to add the cost of a two speed relay to the two speed solution which helps justify the VS a bit more. The current pump is about 5 years old so it probably has good life ahead of it, but when it goes, sounds like the VS is a no brainer. Will have to think...

The Pump is a WFE-6. The clean pressure of the (DE) filter is about 27psi. It only goes up a little when dirty, maybe to 30-31. The Caretaker likes about 20-25psi on its gauge. Only a heater (and diverter valve for the deckjets&spa) between the pump and the caretaker. 2" pipe from pump to...

I have an inground system currently with a whisperflo 1.5hp pump. DE filter, heater+Jandy Aqualink RS system It has to drive a caretaker system, a fountain (four deck jets) and a SWG. I was working the math and it seems like the energy savings might be worth it. Instead of running the...

Unfortunately, I do not have that capability (I guess I could rent). I was thinking of cutting as close to the ground as possible and then using the grinder on a diagonal to bring the pipe edges a little below deck level, then filling. I do have a SDS-plus bit rotary hammer and I do see 2"...

We have a 20 year old gunnite pool with exposed aggregate decking (cantilever). There was a diving board on the deep end which we removed (insurance requirement) and never intend to replace. We are not worried about there being a diving board for resale. I would like to remove the remaining...

I will likely do the following first and work from there: "T" off the Pool return line after the heater and pool/spa 3 way. Install a 2-way valve with JVA on the line (to a spare Aux). Install a manifold after the 2-way to go from 2" to 4xball valves Run from ball valves about 10-15 each...

For #3, the most accessible return is the pressure relief line bypassed in front of the caretaker valve - I could tap is with the bypass just after the pressure relief through another 1 way - do you see any issues? For #1, the absolute easiest would be to T off the return just after the heater...

I have a 20 year old gunite pool/spa with new 1.5HP Whisperflo pump, 48ft2 DE filter, heater and 5 port caretaker system. The only returns are through the caretaker system and spa lines. All above ground plumbing is 2", but underground, I think it is all 1.5". There are 2 skimmers. Normal...