Search results

I took my ic20 out last October and put in a dummy. I put the working unit back in today and got a no flow error light, flashing salt lights, and the screen logic app reads 0PPM salt. I discovered that the flow meter switch broke and have to replace it…but I didn’t think the flow switch had...

The pump is at 2400rpm. My concern is that this is new behavior - it never used to do that and there is an audible "gurgling" coming from the air blower. Makes me think something has changed for the worse.

I thought the problem was fixed, but it is not. Attached is a pick of the blower/air inlet and here is a video of what the jets are doing. I'm running the spa at 3000rpm right now to try and clear any remaining water if that's the problem.

That was it! Running at a high rate cleared it and stopped the problem. Thank you!

Update for anyone with similar problems: It appears water in the air line was the culprit. I ran the pump at a high speed (3200rpm) and that stopped the cycling. We had a lot of rain in January so it makes sense some water may have creeped in. We haven't used the spa all month so it never got...

All 6 function, but two down at one end seem weaker and during this cycle are the last two start bubbling. I thought they may be the last in the chain.

2400rpm. This is for when the spillway is activated. I've always used it at that speed. When using the spa as, well, a spa, I run it at 2850 minimum. EDIT: In anticipation of a followup, I just ran the spa at the higher RPM in spa mode (not spillway mode) and the cycling did NOT happen.

OK. There was no build of of air after purging, no flucutation in pressure when the spa jets stall and restart, and the hum of the pump does not change at all. The only thing I notice among the equipment is the gurgling sound that comes and goes at the same time as the spa jet cycling. Anyone...

I don't know if I have a blower - if that is a separate piece of equipment, then no. There is just a valve that shunts water to the spa instead of the pool returns and the venturi pipe for the bubbles. I did not watch the pressure gauge long enough to see if it fluctuates - should have occured...

My spa has a spillway into the pool. This morning I noticed that the jets in the spa would start and stop every 5 seconds or so while the spillway was running: Jets, no jets, etc. The pump itself SOUNDS like it is running normally. When the jets are restarting I do hear gurgling inside the...

7. I added a little too much by hand since my SWG isn't generating anything due to sub-60 degree temps - I normally keep it around 5.

Got a brand new bottle of Borate test strips from TFTestkits in Feb. Reading seems off the charts? I put Borates up to a level of 50ppm about 2 years ago. Added a little last year to bring it back up to 50. That's it. The only other chemicals I add are MA, chlorine, baking soda, and CYA and...

Definitely meant FAS-DPD test from the K-2006. I know I put the powder in - I checked and there were still a few granules on the bottom. I'm very willing to consider I may have made a mistake somewhere, but I had pool water, powder, and as far as I know, used the correct bottle of R-0871 drops...

After a very rainy winter in southern California, my CYA was low. In Feb I brought it up to 70 (I try to keep it between 70-80) but noticed difficulty keeping up with FC loss on my usual SWG settings and was having to run it at a setting of 80%. Checked CYA about 3 weeks ago and it had dropped...

Label on the bottom of the SWG reads 11/27/2017. The flow switch was replaced August of 2018, so presumably that part is more recent. I've tried that. If I release the MORE button as soon as the lights start cycling, they just finish the cycle and return to its regular state with no...

Hmm. It takes 3 presses to get any kind of change from the cycle, when the 10/100% light finally flashes. I *think* I'm following the procedures. This link is a quick video of my button presses. At the very end I put my thumb over the button but don't press anything so it goes back to normal...

This morning, when I did the most recent readings, water temp was 60F using ScreenLogic. IC40 salt reading was 2750ppm, Taylor was 4200ppm. Using the procedures you posted, I pressed and held the MORE button on the IC. All lights cycled through a pattern, the red lights flashed a bit more...

I've searched and found that reagents are good for at least a year, probably longer (most threads related to typical chemistry - FC, Ph, etc). Does this apply to the salt test reagents from the Taylor K-1766? My R-0718 reagent shows an expiration of 08/2019; the R0630 expires 4/2020. We had a...

Chiming in. My IC40 was showing 2200ppm and my Taylor test was 3600ppm (18 drops before turning red/brown). Water temp is 61F here in So Cal. I added 40lb of salt and the IC40 is now showing 2650 so the red light is still on. Haven't done a second Taylor test - waiting 24hrs but I'd expect...

I have the Taylor 2006. The FAS-DPD powder has an expiration date of 10/19 but the powder is turning grayish black. I store it tightly, in a dark cupboard indoors. Is this normal or is it going bad? Tests SEEM to be accurate.

I took the cover off of the transceiver out by the pool equipment - there is a slow blinking green light and nothing else. The inside transceiver still has the rapid flickering green light. Equipment is too far away to try the hard connection suggested by Tom. The inside of the outside...

It's dark now so I'll look under the hood tomorrow. "Display Not Active" is on the display. The transmitter in the house has a very rapidly flashing green light - I'm guessing a signal that it can't connect. I'll make the call tomorrow. Was just wondering if there was a simple fix that I'm...

All, Been using Pentair's ScreenLogic to control my pool and spa (all Pentair equipment) for almost a year, no problem. We here in San Diego had a decent amount of rain for about a 24 hour period. I tried to use SL right after that storm to start up the spa last night and it failed. The iOS...

Gonna revive an old thread rather than start a new one. My pool is <1 year old (opened in April). Temps here in Oceanside CA have the pool consistently below 70 (currently 69). My IC-40 produces chlorine just fine and the light indicates good salt level (not flashing or red). However, the...

I just tested my water and the first reading, using the 10ml fill line, required 12 drops, giving me FC = 6. I tested CC and it immediately turned light pink and just barely cleared after 1 drop. I thought this was a tad strange because the pool was fine yesterday (yes, I know this can change...

A part of the msds reads, "Special Remarks on Chronic Effects on Humans: May cause cancer based on animal test data" under Section 11 Toxicological Effects, Special remarks on Chronic Effects in Humans. This may be where wifey is getting concerned. The key word is Chronic, though. IMO, this...

I just got the Taylor k-1766 kit for testing the salt in my water. Is there any reason why I shouldn't just use the sample tube from my k2006 kit when testing for salt? Even the instructions that came with the k-2006 say to use the 1766 sample tube (part #9198) but as long as I rinse the 2006...

Reviving a slightly old thread and yes, I recognize this is probably THE most frequently asked question on TFP. Ive read a dozen threads going back 8+ years so I've tried to do my homework. Since I'm new to pools, I'm not sure how OCD I am being about surface debris. Other than a couple rose...