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Uncle. Millions of pools use pucks with zero issues. Salt systems are being banned in communities.

Yeah ok, uncle, you guys know it all

I wasn’t referencing liquid chlorine, I was referencing pucks. In areas with short seasons and abundant snowfall it’s not a huge issue. That snow and heavy fall rains dilutes any build up of cya.

For years phosphates were added to water plants to help protect copper pipes, so there must be some truth there somewhere.

I’ll just add that there are studies that show phosphates can coat the plates on swcg and limit their ability to produce chlorine. Most manufacturers will not replace “faulty” cells until phosphates are ruled out.

Green and cloudy is algae, green and clear is metals that came out of suspension.

In my area, if you’re getting any salt system installed it’s 3-4k. Cells up here last 5-7 yrs. Controllers might last 12. Do the math, 6 months up here, you can keep a pool clear using pucks and algaecide. Hands down swcg are more convenient but they are no longer economical.

There is a heat recovery system that goes in your attic and then transfers that heat to the water…..but….whos brave enough to have water in an attic lol

That’s totally dependent on just how cold it gets, but once the ground temperature starts plummeting no solar cover is going to keep any pool hot enough to stop freezing and the resulting broken lines.

Look up winterizing here, all lines are blown free of all water and then plugged.

Mesh or solid cover are the way to go, both have theirs pros and cons. Mesh is lighter, lets some fine sediment through. Solid covers are heavier and require a surface pump to remove excess water on the top of it. Both types of covers use the resulting freezing water to help support them during...

You certain the pump female fitting isn’t cracked? If it leaks more when tightening that’s a sure sign.

Pfft…rookies…get a super long bit, cut off the working end….no more bending over lol. Step on the spring to hold it in place then let your hammer drill turn the screw down, once you’ve got one side down the opposite side is easy. Once all anchors are flush with deck, pull cover off pool then...

No cover that I aware of prevents freezing under it.

Are you doing the install yourself? Hydraulic cement can fix those cracks and low spots. Most pool companies offer bottom work for an extra price.

That sand required to hold the blades up, will stick to wet feet and invariably end up in your pool.

Simply make a U to then add in the swg and flow switch.

No to foam walls or floors. You’re just adding one more way for holes to happen. Place a piece of paper on cement, try poking a hole in it, then place that same piece of paper on say a piece of leather and notice the difference on how easy it is to poke holes in both. Do not do it.

I’d definitely cut out all that copper.

I’ve installed 100’s of safety covers, lighter are 5’ grids, get 3’ grids if your pools bigger than 16x32. Every pool I service has a safety cover, from 18x36 to 22x44. I put them on and take off by myself. It’s not a big job, trust this old guy.

Up north we used to use spa flex a lot with zero issues, provided the right glue was used. I’d cut that back to rigid then dry fit with 45’s.

Just how old is this pool? Copper connections to a skimmer screams old imo.

Did you wait for the water to stop dropping and then surmise by the height that it might be a connection at the bottom of the skimmer?

I second the putting green because it requires zero backfilling with fine sand. Grade it right because they are not porous and need a slope to drain.

Place both on your pool steps and check how they dissolve, they both leave “something”.

It’s all mainly labour as you’ve noted.

Above ground pumps have water fed to them, inground pumps pull the water from the pool.

My point is it’s unnecessary. Sand filters do not require DE or anything else to do their job. If one wants finer filtration then convert to a cartridge filter.

I’d also add that DE is a carcinagetic.

Do not let it sit empty for that long.