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Morning- both my automated actuator valves won’t move with the toggle switch in any position. I checked the small breaker in the top right of the Easytouch panel and it trips when I reset it and try to move a valve with the toggle switch. I’m guessing it’s either something stuck in the valve...

Well the voltages checked out as you suggested and I gave up last night before dinner. Flipped all the breakers off including the main panel breaker that feeds the subpanel. Ate dinner and came back and flipped everything on and it worked! Neighbor thinks our main breaker panel which has a...

I’m about to replace a bad gfci that controls landscape lights. It’s a long shot but hoping it helps narrow things down. I did notice the main pump has a lit up control screen that’s on the pump which wasn’t there before. I may try replacing breakers also to see if that narrows it down. Just...

Okay we just wired up a spare blower. Same behavior as the original blower- switch on the easy touch gives it power and takes it away but won’t turn it on (make it blow). We are working on pulling the pump apart now to get to the wiring connections. Thanks for you help so far this is...

IntellifloXF variable pump and air supply blower. When I open the intelliflow pump’s cover the display is dark/unresponsive. We checked for voltage on the load side of the blower relay and it was present, able to be given power or turned off with the breaker and switch on the easytouch. We...

The pool and spa lights work. The pool pump, booster pump, blower, and water feature do not. The breakers inside the pentair panel kill power to the blower when we checked voltage at the connections inside the blower.

The plot thickens- we can turn on spa and pool lights with the buttons on the easy touch panel. Could this just be a bad RJ45 cable causing the 2 pumps to not work?

We just got power restored today after the hurricane passed through. We have circuit protection on our main house and pool subpanel. When we press the buttons on the easytouch panel, the lights activate, relays click, power is on at the bubbler. Turn off the switch and power goes away...

Tried a third keypad and it worked! On the backside of the keypad the “pool on” button was pretty grayed out and maybe that was all it was. Thanks again for the advice! 🍻

gonna try a new board and membrane. Seems like there are electrical gremlins in the system and the board is 6 years old anyways….

I had one in my parts bin from a neighbor. Trying to keep a good stock of these parts thst seems to always break. Spa On does work. But the automation to tell the keypad/circuit board to use spa on doesn’t work. I’m trying to understand the comment about the automation not caring about pool...

I swapped keypads and have the same issue. I noticed the Air flow sensor LED illuminates briefly but then turns off within a second- maybe a self test I never noticed before. Think it’s back to the wiring?

Looks like I have a black cable 18AWG with a green and yellow wire. Fuse looks good. I will try a new membrane and see what happens, thank you guys!

Happy Easter, Went to turn on our mastertemp 400 remotely earlier today via the Pentair app and essentially no heating occurred: only the pump ran. On the heater touchpad, if I select “spa on” instead of “pool on” the blower activates and the heater fires up. No LED diagnostics are...

I have a very similar situation to yours. My next step will be to replace the valve. I don’t believe you or I have an underground leak as there isn’t presumably any dirt entering the water flow. For ours, the faster we run the pump the less air bubbles we get in the basket. Good luck to us both!

Good news- turns out it was the check valve that had a bad seal. Replaced it and neither spa nor pool has much air in the basket. Thank you all for your help solving the mystery!

I ended up replacing my Swasher aftermarket tail with an OEM and it’s back to sweeping! Swasher must’ve been too heavy for it. Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

I lubed o-rings in diverter valve. Seems to help a little. While pump was running I moved the UV bypass valve and heard a bunch of air clear out. Should this valve (laying flat, in the rocks) be open to help decrease air bubble formation, or will it make things like the UV less effective?

We are getting warmer. I switched the diverter valve that RDSpaGuy mentioned above. Bubbles definitely forming when suction to spa is active. I’m cleaning the valve again and am guessing it’s either a crack in the valve, the elbow running down into the ground, or an underground leak...

I have recently been bleeding the filter air when emptying the basket but will keep this habit going forward- thank you. Here are a few more photos. The first one has a single drop and I am going to check it in the morning to see if it was caused by me bleeding the air from the filter just now...