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It could mean he knows nothing though! :) SWG is much easier (in the long run) than a tablet feeder. Cartridge filters are not difficult.

SWG off. Add salt. Use bleach to bring FC up to proper amount. Next day, add bleach again to get FC at proper level, then kick on the SWG (as long as all salt is dissolved).

Yep!

Adding DE is for sand filters. On yours, you will just aid in clogging it. :)

No, we eyeball stuff all the time here, especially bleach.

That's correct. That is why we use the FAS-DPD. You can't measure over 5 with what you have.

Salinity range for that SWG is 4000-5000. http://www.oceanic.cz/download/en/smc_20_30_manual.pdf

Yep, that's where I was headed. You were well over 5.

8th drop. Your TA is 80. Pool School - Total Alkalinity

Typically: Trichlor is tablet Dichlor is powder Cal-hypo is powder So trichlor is what you are going to almost always find at the store.

They are neat, but really if your electricity is cheap, it's cheaper to go with a 2 speed pump. But if you found a VS for $399, that would be hard to pass up.

Did you change the % of the bleach in PoolMath from 6 to 8.25? The higher the CYA, the higher FC must be. And then if you have a problem, you must use MUCH more bleach at 60 than in the 30-40 range. You can live with 60, you just don't want to get (much, if any) higher.

I did that at my last house. Luckily in this house the previous owner had already replaced them.

Part of me having a 44,000 gallon pool and wanting top of the line finish. It hurt handing over that cash!

Part of the reason I wasn't as clear as I meant to be is because I had the electrician install a new Intellibrite LED fixture. My light was so old there was no fixing it, not to mention the cord broke the minute we pulled the light out because it was so brittle. And the third issue was they ran...

Hehe, I always get that when I say it can take weeks. It actually is encouragement. You are doing the right thing, keep going!

That could be it. Mine is fairly low profile and the edge is sloped.

It won't be cheap. Even if you look at half you are still looking at $5k. The delamination isn't a problem. Mine had many other issues. Mine was from the 80s also. - - - Updated - - - I don't know if you can tell, but I was getting areas where the plaster had gotten very rough and pocked. And...

I wish I could find that thread with the explanation of what you are experiencing. The hollow spots are from delamination of the plaster from the gunite structure. The streaks are probably calcium deposits caused by water entering the void. Plaster life varies, but 5-10 years is fairly common...

Keep on going. It can take some time. When I SLAMmed my pool (years ago, thank goodness) it took two weeks. Helped a friend with his little 9,000 gallon pool and his took three weeks.

Goo gone is also excellent for removing glue.

Nope. In fact we were in our pool recently and I was pointing out to my wife how our pool and water have ZERO smell.

Turn off pump for an hour. Hold sock over return while someone turns on the pump. If you get sand, you know where it is coming from.

I don't know if it helps, but my Z5 doesn't get stuck on the main drain. It has split scrubbers. But is that correlation or causation? That's the question.

So you know, I bought my pump from Amazon. It came with a faulty drive right out of the box. Pentair was quick to point right at Amazon, stating they have been improperly storing or handling the pumps, and that they get calls all the time regarding DOA pumps from Amazon. That's when she told me...

Agreed. It is worth noting. Pentair told me on the phone once that they were going to shorten or eliminate warranties on products bought from retailers such as Amazon, and also for any equipment self-installed. That was a while back, I don't know if anything ever came from it.

If warranty is one of your criteria, I'll mention that the Circupool RJ series has a 5 year warranty, and the RJ+ series has a 7.

How are you measuring FC?

I remember those days!

it is only a test.