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Thanks Mike, that may be the ticket. Getting the light fixture out and replacing the light is not going to be feasible though, that sucks.

I should note that those water parameters are before I started the SLAM.

Hi all, I have what appears to be an algae problem in my SWG pool with a high FC. Each week when I brush the pool I have a little greenish tinge on the walls and when I brush tiers and the bottom I can clearly see a cloud following the brush. The problem is that I keep my FC values high enough...

Hey guys, follow up to his question. I bought the same meter and cal'd it with the pH 6.86 powder that came with the meter. I then checked the cal with the pH 4.0 powder that came with the meter and it was way off. Maybe expected for a single point cal, I'm not sure. I then measured my pool...

Thanks everybody. I did buy new bottles of both and still struggling. I ordered the inexpensive pH meter for cross checking. Appreciate everyone's time.

So, the problem is 1) I just can't see the difference, so telling me about it doesn't help me. 2) the pool 'wants' to be at a high pH. Even since I've owned it' it has consumed massive amounts of acid to try and keep it even at pH 7.6. If I drop it to 7.4, the next day it's 7.6 and the next day...

Hi all, I'm not sure if there's other folks that have this problem, but I really have a hard time telling the difference between the pH 7.8 and pH 8.0 colors on my test kit and my pool loves to run up in this range. Current numbers are: FC 5.0, pH 7.8 or 8.0, TA 70, CH 380, CYA 40, NaCl 3400. I...

thanks everyone

TA is 80, doesn't seem that high, maybe it is?

Thanks for the feedback guys, but at this rate, I'm looking at adding a few cups of acid every few days, doesn't that seem like too much?

Hi all, I've always felt that my pH wanted to rise too quickly but I never asked about it. I've been using the bleach/HCl method for a few years and recently switched to SWG. Since the SWG might have a tighter tolerance for pH I thought I would seek guidance. I lowered my pH with acid just...

Thanks guys, The thing that gets me is that the higher the CYA, the more FC you have to run and the more FC you run, the more you burn off since it's a percentage. But the higher CYA reduces that percentage and the whole thing is a complicated function. But if it the net is in the right...

Hi all, I'm converting my pool over to SWG this Friday after having enough of dealing with bleach additions every day. I'm wondering why the recommendation is to keep the CYA so high? Increasing CYA is a diminishing return kind of thing after a certain amount in terms of chlorine loss from what...

Hi all, I just had my plaster redone with a nice Wet Edge polished material and I want to be very careful with it. It's been started up for a few months and was handled by the installer so that's fine, but it has me wondering about the best way to add acid to the pool. Here's the particulars...

Thanks Marty, I will not worry about the LSI numbers then. Tony

Hi all, I have a little pool app on my phone that I also use in addition to PoolMath called Pool Pal. It spits out LSI numbers in addition to CSI numbers and I have a real hard time keeping my pool in the non-scale regime for LSI. Here are my numbers: Temp: 84 FC: 2.8 CC: 0 pH: 7.6-7.8 TA: 80...

yes, everything is 120V. Thanks again for the help.

Thanks for the confirmation, and you are correct about the error above that. In a previous wiring before I cleaned it up partially, there was another neutral that came in just for the clock that I removed and then jumpered over to #3 so I forgot to leave out that wire. I'll be able to clean this...

So, to draw it out, so I have it right, like this?

I do have three separate lines but only one line is switched. The other two run straight to the pumps from the loadcenter. So I drew it wrong, you're right. please see revised drawing. Only one wire is switched, all the wires coming in to the T103R have voltage on them

The wiring on the current setup is a mess. The timer circuit for the single T103R that I have is here. It's using the DPST to control both pumps. I have to throw the second breaker manually to start the booster pump and run the cleaner. The routing is crazy, it goes through two different boxes...

Thanks for the response. I looked at the wiring diagram and it looks like it's only for driving the two pumps from a single circuit breaker. I have two circuit breakers for my two pumps which is where I'm getting hung up.

Hey again, I did some thinking. Will this do it? Just run the neutral output from the first timer into the neutral input of the second timer? Tony

hi all, I could have sworn I've seen this before but I cannot find it now, so I'm sorry if this is a redundant post. I bought a house with a pool last Fall in Austin, TX and I'm in the process of straightening things out. The booster pump was burned out and the Polaris 280 was in terrible...