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Depends on how porous the stone is. There are different grades of stone. The softer the stone is (more porous), the quicker salt water will show it's effect on it. I'd recommend looking at a dense travertine, and sealing it as often as recommended (varies by the type of sealer you use).

for your gallons, you really wouldn't need more than 100,000 BTU unit to maintain your pool in South Florida. Some may suggest over sizing it so you have a lot of BTUs. Please compare BTU's AND COP (Co-efficiency Of Performance). Think of BTU's as MPH and COP as MPG. More BTUs will get you...

If it's already removed, there's nothing you can do to ensure it works ok. You would need to check it while installed and operating. Look for all light status showing good. This includes if he says his salt is low and didnt want to add salt since he's selling it, he may only mask problems...

I live in South Florida, but we have many salt systems in New York. The system will most likely be more than $1000, as you will need to make sure it's sized properly, and to your pool usage. Is it indoor or outdoor? Do you have dogs that use it? A lot of kids that use it? Water features...

what's your water test look like? Free Chlorine Total Chlorine pH Total Alkalinity Calcium Hardness Cyanuric Acid Water chemistry can change over time, which can affect the amount of chlorine demand you have. Seeing that the amps and volts have not changed, you should be generating the same...

There's no definite % setting that we can give you. It's all trial and error, and specific to your pool usage, and chlorine demand. Start at 50% and make your adjustments until it maintains your desired chlorine level. With the VSP, as long as your minimum flow rate still activates the salt...

What are you currently using for chlorine? If Liquid, you will already have a fair amount of salt in the pool. If you have zero salt in your pool, you can calculate 90,000 gallons needing 45 x 50 lbs (2,250 lbs) of salt to get to 3,000 ppm (most manufacturers recommended level of salinity)...

NEVER NEVER NEVER USE A BROMINE EROSION FEEDER WITH CHLORINE TABLETS!!!!! Did I mention NEVER? Even if you rinse it down, there can still be a chemical reaction ending up in excessive heat or an small explosion. So, do not use chlorine tablets in your bromine feeder. Option 1: converting to...

We are still looking into this. This is not a common, or known problem but it does appear to be in conjunction with the power to the unit. With the higher RPMs, you're drawing more power, and can create an electrical/brown out condition that's tricking the unit into the boost mode. At least...

Van, you may have issues with high chlorine or residual salt corrosion on some automatic covers. As mentioned, with the pool covered, you need very little chlorine. if the controller's output setting is not adjusted lower when covered, you can overchlorinate, very easily. With some...

bobandsherry, it should be as you said. However, if it's wired to 110 volts, while the control box is looking for 220 volts, the amperage would be lower than normal. Please have your installer verify the voltage vs the Nano's configuration. If that's correct, contact me for further...

As GaryT58 said, the AutoPilot 75003 and DIG-220 units are capable of controlling your circulation pump, WITH a freeze protection mode that will turn your pump on and run continually, whenever water temperatures fall below 40 degrees. Moving water through your system will prevent freeze damage...

The Hayward salt system displays the salt level, based on the operating condition of the cell. If it's old (probably your situation), scaled, or cold water conditions exist, it will display a lower than actual salt level. High Amperage, as was mentioned, may be an actual high salt level or hot...

Your best bet is to separate the Aquapure from the controller and make sure the salt system is working correctly by itself. If so, then it may be the communication wires or the PDA/Controller that's causing the problems. Sometimes all it takes is for one of the communication wires to break...

By Return Jets, isn't that line going to your spa? If so, then the return to the in floor system, and to your pool, makes sense. Putting it before the diverter of a Pool or Spa type system, may allow overchlorination conditions when the spa is isolated. (ps. your photos label a spa suction...

Just visually inspect the cell for calcium scale build up. Otherwise, press and hold the SELECT button until it clears (about 8 seconds)

Go to page 47, Water Sensor Calibration http://aquacal.com/webimage/pdf/aquacal/aquacal-heat-pump-manual.pdf

Suggest contacting AutoPilot again. Does your display show any error messages?

Yes. It always temperature compensates. When it drops below 70 degrees water temperature, you may see some limits on how high you can increase the % setting. As it drops to 55 degrees or colder, it will not allow you to go higher than 1%, but at least it will continue to generate a minimal...

You will be fine using the chiller in Florida or Texas. If you have a specific question on the chiller function, feel free to ask.

You can also adjust the return fitting orifice size to a smaller one at the closest return, and larger ones further away. It will spread out the bubbles more so it's less noticeable.

The variable speed pump should be wired directly to power and turned off and on through it's own timer, or through your controller. The AutoPilot will not be able to wired so that it cycles on and off with the pump. Therefore, it will rely on the flow switch to turn on and off. However, it's...

Check your manifold base check valve to make sure that when the pump is off, the check valve is fully closed. You can tell by identifying the red gasket on the inlet side of the check valve first. When the pump is on, the gasket should move about 1/4" and no more than 1/2". The important part...

If its under warranty, I'd recommend contacting the factory. If its out of warranty or not as a result of a defect, you can use A&B Epoxy Putty. If you go this route, make sure you stuff the epoxy into the gaps.

You're welcome! It may be a loose tri-sensor cord connection. Inspect your tri-sensor cord for any nicks or cuts in the wire jacket (such as with a weedeater cutting it). If it's an older tri-sensor and separate cord, make sure there's not corrosion in the connector that mates the two.

Hello Dante, Sorry to hear of your problems. Have you spoken with your pool builder about this? Is the unit giving you error codes? If you can email me with your information, I can follow up with our service department to review your files and see what I can do to help out. My email is...

As long as your average air temperature is at least 50 degrees, you should be able to get 80 degrees pool water. A solar bubble cover would be great to help retain the heat. AquaCal.com has a sizing program and cost comparator that shows you the anticipated cost to operate.

Woody, please make sure your pool builder sizes the salt system properly, and per Department of health guidelines.

Sounds like a damaged power module. All other issues would give you either a high voltage and low amps (normal problem scenario for bad cell, scale cell, bad cell cord, blown cell fuse, low salt, cold water temps), or low volts and low amps (damaged power module or improper voltage to unit)...

Looking to get one for my early Christmas present. Just not sure which one to get. Any opinions from Pellet Grill owners?