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You should probably pull the steps out and check them. They could be packed with algae underneath and may be part of the problem with the water not clearing.

Did you purge and refill recently? My spa usually leaks after a purge for about a week and then it stops.

Do you have any pool noodles? They flake like that when they get old and start to deteriorate.

How do you plan to test all of that stuff?

Hopefully you haven't been staying out of the pool because your FC is at 9.5 currently. It's safe up until SLAM level for your CYA.

I'm gonna say your TA is fine and just watch and adjust the PH with MA. When PH gets near 8, lower it to 7.2ish.

Hey, if the cheap aftermarket pump makes it 2 years, it will have lasted longer than the Balboa. 🤷‍♂️

I looked them up and see what you mean. Not sure why the difference, maybe paying for the Balboa name? Idk, just guessing.

If you like the smell of chlorine, you won't like a TFP chlorine pool because there's no smell.

It was explained to me by a spa parts dealer that the Hp rating is kind of gimmicky. They told me that that you always go by the Amp draw to determine what pump you need. It looks like they replaced your pump with a very close match, so I wouldn't worry about it.

The sooner the better. Add your chlorine, brush the pool and test again in 2-3 hours.

If you think you can do it yourself, I would. It's less than $50 in parts if you don't need the tube. I would order the element, a new set of wires and maybe two new seals. Spa Heater Elements

Not sure what you're using to lower PH, but muriatic acid is recommended here to lower PH. With a TA of 80, I wouldn't worry about TA right now and just use MA to lower your PH. Use can use pool math to calculate how much to add. I rarely test my TA and just keep my PH in range. To do that, my...

Do you happen to know your TA using the K-2006?

I'm confused, are you using the K-2006 or test strips? Post a set of results using the K-2006 kit.

The relay on the bottom looks like it is different from the other two. Are you sure it's the same as the original? I would check the ohms of the element to make sure that's ok. You may have a bad element and that's taking out the relay.

A friend is having pool issues. He says, no matter what he does, he can't get a FC reading. Yes, he is using strips and pool store tests. 20K gal IG pool, water is clear. I went by today with my TF-100 and tested. FC .5 CC .5 Ph 6.8 TA 80 CH 300 CYA 50 This year since opening he has added, Cal...

Use the 10ml sample for FC. One good scoop of powder and count the drops until it goes clear, then divide by two and that's your FC.

I would add, don't use any more of the Clorox shock. I believe it has copper in it and you really don't want that in your pool. "Shocking" is just increasing the chlorine to a certain level, it's not a special potion. Stick with the liquid chlorine until your test kit comes in.

You really put in 80 drops until it turned clear? Are you using the 10ml sample of water?

CYA dissolves just fine in my spa, I put it in a mesh bag and pinch the drawstring under my cover. I prefer just putting in the recommended amount rather than keeping track of how much dichlor I've added. My tub takes 1oz of CYA, only 250g, according to pool math. I do have dichlor but mainly...

I may be doing it wrong, but I rarely test my TA. From everything I've gathered here, PH is the most important. After reading this thread last night I decided to see what my TA was and measured 40, Ph 7.5. I test FC every day and PH every two or three days. My Ph does slowly creep up, so when it...

It would be best to post the model # of the controller and all of the specifics about the system. You need to know what gauge wire is going to the tub and what size breaker it is on, also what wattage heating element you have. My Balboa is configurable and there are settings as to when it heats...

Thanks! Have to check that out tomorrow. They haven't had it at the Quick Shop that I usually go to, so I'll have to try the actual grocery store.

This should help. I think you just answered your question about the chlorine smell. At shock level, there's enough chlorine to kill and oxidize the bad stuff.

You may be able to get by with every other day when you're not using the tub. I'm just guessing though and basing that on my tub which doesn't have ozone. I can go two or three days without adding or testing, with no use of the tub. I test before I go in to make sure I have FC and dose with...

I would use the Ahhsome if you have it, you may be surprised at what comes out of the plumbing even though it's new. Chlorine and ozone are two different things, you always need chlorine for the sanitization. The ozone is for the oxidation.

I would say the first thing to do would be an Ahhsome purge. New tubs can have bad stuff growing in the plumbing which the chlorine is trying to fight, hence the smell.

Hey neighbor! Go to American Pools on 145 in Whitehall. They sell 5gal jugs of 12%. Think it's up to about $28, so may be a little more expensive than Walmart. But it's an easy in and out.

Are you only using dichlor? If yes, you should probably test your CYA. Too much CYA will make your chlorine less effective. Having an ozone generator will also deplete your FC.