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I replaced my Polaris PB4-60 with a Hayward 6060. Never looked back - quiet, reliable and works great with my Polaris 380.

Yes, that sounds right to me.

Well, problems rarely occur in the first year-or-two but it can be an ugly mess by year 5-10 if its not done properly!

Maybe OK, Maybe not. The only way to know is to get 3-4 competitive bids.

The Polaris tune-up kit (A49) is about $200. The Polaris rebuild kit (A48) is over $300. He's using 3rd party tune-up kit and charging you for 2 hours work. Sounds about right. If you're at all handy with a screwdriver, the instructions are pretty straightforward - you should be able to do...

^^ What he said. Unless there's some problem with the 280, just run it for a couple of hours a day (ours takes ~1 hour to clean our pool). If these is a problem with it, replace it with another 280 or, better still, a 380.

Or you can just bite the bullet and get a robot.

Currently all your plumbing is permanently glued into your equipment. Use unions on all equipment connections so that parts can be replaced easily.

Wow, I didn't know that - and I've never seen anybody do it either!

If the concrete decking is prepared correctly, Kool Deck should not not have any problems. The issue is finding someone who knows how to prepare the decking correctly - a quick high pressure power wash while you're not around ain't gonna cut it. A chemical cleaner followed by an approved PTA...

And be prepared for sticker shock when you get estimates. Pool renovation and resurfacing prices have gotten out of control since Covid!

This is the only way to repair them properly. It'll take you a couple of days and 50 bucks worth of materials. Beats paying some clown $7k or painting them with something that will only last 1 season. Use a gelcoat on top of your patches.

The cloudiness is normal after adding a metal chelator. I wouldn't add too much chlorine yet as the cloudiness may not be algae and it will counter the metal magic treatment.

Oatey cleaner (in the US, at least) is pretty much the same as Oatey primer, just without the purple dye. The smell should be a clue (acetone).

Sadly, in today's market, they'll probably tell you to go find someone else!

If the diagnoses are accurate then the budget seems in the ballpark. However, you need to get a much more confident assessment of the cause of the leaks (pressure testing plumbing, dye testing of the skimmer, main drain, etc) before you commit to ponying up 50 large!!!

Labor is the biggest part of any pool reno. If you know how to DIY, and there are no shell or plumbing cracks/leaks, you should be good to go with an estimate close to Allen's.

Any rebound should be removed and discarded. Don't know about "humidity", we've had rain and snow and freezing weather here in NC recently - they shouldn't be shooting a pool shell in this weather!

Price is phenomenal if they do a good job. We paid that 30 years ago for a hybrid pool!

The shape, location and size of that water mark lookslike its coming from the crack, not splashover.

Bright sunlight causes free chloring to degrade. That (summer down under) and algae are probably the cause, rather than any filtration/flow issue. You should probably increase your alkalinity and hardness, too - your water chemistry is pretty corrosive right now.

Also, the payment schedule appears to be heavily front-loaded, favoring the builder and leaving you with little recourse on any "punch list" items, big or small. You need to have at least 10% holdback until the job is completed TO YOUR TOTAL SATISFACTION.

Do a search on this website. There was someone from your neck of the wood posted in the last 3 months about resurfacing their hybrid pool. EDIT: Never mind - I see you already read this post: Hybrid Pool - Toronto area contractors?

Are you going to do the Pebble-Tec yourself or have someone do it for you?

Darn sight better than the "before" pictures!!! (y)

Probably evaporation residuals on the old border that was hard to get off. That would prevent good adhesion of the new border after a while.

^^^^^ What he said. I don't really see anything other than the grout needing to be repaired. It's a tedious job but a Dremel tool should make short work of it.

Well, if there's nowhere for the water to go on the other side of the crack, no leak! It could be cemented in or have thick clay all around that area. Just repair the crack with Plast-Aid or an epoxy filler and you'll be good to go.

Wow, I remember when the the VS Intelliflo pumps were $1000 pre-covid!

Looks like a "yes". You might try some silicone/teflon lube of the o-ring first.