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Ok it eventually stopped and went to solid red on low salt

Now when I run the diagnostic mode, after it goes back to flashing green and red

Ugh. This is frustrating. Why is it not working like everyone else’s? Should I reattached the white or the green from the original thermistor? Was cutting both the wrong thing?

Well over a minute and still flashing green and red

Flashing green and red upon startup as normal. Will wait and see what happens.

Ok just attached them. See pic. Restoring power now

3200 per K-1766 with new reagents

Going to run that test right now first

https://streamable.com/a1xa4x Here is a video of the diagnostic

https://streamable.com/j2hgnh Here’s is a video of the lights flashing. If I run the diagnostic mode they stop flashing and stay solid red on low salt.

I have a new thermistor but was trying to avoid replacing it until I closed the pool. Pain in the butt with my pad below pool level.

The flow is fine and solid green. The red and black wires are fine. Only cut white and green. I suppose all 5 lights flashing means the sensor is bad according to the chart but I thought that was ok?

Yes

I ran the diagnostic mode and then it stayed on red / low. Holding mode for 5 seconds and then mode again led to all 5 lights flashing….

Ok so that was just a loose wire and pump is fine. Back to the Intellichlor: Now upon startup, the IC60 is just flashing green and red between good and low as it does during normal startup and it won’t stop. It’s been doing it for minutes. Any ideas?

Right, when I put it back into automation the pump stayed in manual. I think it was a loose wire. Checking now.

Hi guys, I finally got around to cutting the white and green wires. Weird thing is when I turned back on my system the pump was no longer in automation mode talking to my iAquaLink. Is there any possibility that cutting the white and green wires from the thermistor could be related or is it a...

Good points actually. It does have a check valve. also, yeah, I could just wait until I close and then do it.

I was worried that would be the answer. I have a spa with a lot of jets to plug…

Sorry, pictures aren’t uploading right now… but you get the drift

Well, back here again! Turns out rain stratification was likely only the partial issue. While the cell worked again for a couple of weeks, it’s back to showing low salt even though my test is showing 3600 ppm salt (to be fair, the reagents expired in Feb and late last year respectively, so I did...

Thanks everyone. The power cycle fixed it. Rain stratification was the culprit.

Thanks, Jim. Is replacing the flow switch a relatively straight forward process? Unfortunately, due to the way my pool is plumbed and the fact that that pool is above the equipment, it's a huge pain to remove the IC60 from my plumbing while the pool is operational (i.e., not closed for winter)...

Ah that's very helpful information. If it was getting rain water sucked of the top of the pool during the rains that could explain it. Thank you. I will mix and then cycle!

Hi all - haven't needed to post in a while, but having an issue with my IC60. It was purchased new at the end of 2019 so still relatively new. Recently we got a lot of rain here in the northeast and my pool was high, so i drained it a bit and then we just got more rain and it's somewhat high...

It’s > rev N

Yes thanks, this is the information I was looking for. If the heater has an issue, where does the diagnostic information get displayed within the Aqualink app or web interface?