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Thanks. All complete and running - or it would be running, but we're still slowly draining the pool, but hopefully this weekend it will be all ready to swim in.

AT 802 square foot, if you lower the water 1 inch, you remove 500 gallons. Lowering the water 2 feet will remove 12,000 gallons. So, if you pump, you can measure the rate from the pump, or just watch the water level and when you reach the down 2 foot mark, start filling.

Ignoring cost, is it better to use boric acid or borax + muriatic acid? I guess what I'm curious about is does the reaction between the borax and muriatic acid to lower the pH add other chemicals to the pool water?

How badly do you want to know how much engery your equipment uses? Here's 2 energy monitors that attach to your load center and monitor whole house power usage as well as individual circuits - like a pool pump. Cost about $200 plus installation...

Looks like the answer is pool pump wires so the heater can never come on if the pump is not on.

Okay, I'm replacing my Pentair Minimax with a Pentair MasterTemp tomorrow. The pool guy's quote didn't include any gas work - and we needed the gas line extended and all new venting as the MasterTemp requires Z-flex while the MiniMax uses B-vent. And the pool guys quote was about $1500 more...

I'd add a couple of jugs of bleach and see if it gets any better - cheap, about $6 and easy.

I think this sentence is the key.

Thanks for all the info. I tested with fresh water and did the hot water bath to get it above 70 degrees. New pool heater showed up today, vent pipe is coming on Tuesday. So hopefully, we'll have a warm pool next week.

I tried searching for this answer, but "wait" gets lots of hits. So my pool water is cold - 63 degrees, and I want to let it warm up for about 4 to 8 hours so I can test CYA. So can I just wait and test everything or do I have to test pH, FC, etc. now and CYA later? Also, can you wait days...

You are right about the CYA, Ted. Too bad I didn't discover this site a few years ago, but, I'm going to get things right! I'm going to let things settle for a few more days, then drain some more, maybe I won't have to drain as much to get the CYA to 20 or so.

Some good possiblities. Another point I should make is the pool water is 62 degrees and the water coming in is 58, so not much of a change, and both drains open (bottom and skimmer) and it has been 4 days since water was added, pump on 8 hours per day. I did put the 8 oz of sample water in a...

A few days ago, I started draining some water to lower my CYA level. See this post: http://www.troublefreepool.com/draining-water-t24420.html Anyway, at the start of the drain, here's the readings from the TF100 kit Note, I did 3 tests of everything before I started draining and TA, CH, CYA...

Look at the concentration on your Muriatic Acid - mine from Home Depot was 14%, not the 31% used as the default in the pool calculator. I'm having a very hard time finding anything above 14% here. One of the hardware stores had some kwickclean (I think that was the brand) that didn't list the...

Okay, last reply in this post, but a quick question before I start draining 700 gallons per day. My chlorine level (FC) has remained at 16.5 over night. I'm thinking this is because of 2 things, one the water is cool - about 63 degrees and two, even though the pool is opened, it was been...

I would tend to agree with you if the PH came down to 7.2 or lower, but the chlorine over shoot it's target and the pH undershot. Estimating the pool volume is a bit of a trick. Previously I used 28,000 gallons, but when I recalced it, it came to 29,000. Here's how I came up with 29,000...

Hi again, so after adding four 182 oz jugs of bleach and one gallon of 14% muraitic acid, here are the test results 24 hours later: pH - 7.5 (maybe 7.4) FC - 16.5 CC - < 0.5 - turned clear the instant the drop hit. TA - 175 CH - 300 CYA - 60 But targets I set in the pool calculator to get the...

Sorry, I should have posted that it's the weak Home Depot version - 14 or so percent, so it's 1/2 gallon of the real stuff. I didn't research MA until I looked at my jug and realized I'd been duped into buying 2 gallons for $9.59 or the weak stuff, thinking I had the normal concentration. And...

Ok, I just spent this morning with my test kit and tested a few things: CYA came out between 50 and 60, not the 94 the pool store said. Closer to 50 then 60. Still need to drain some, but I'm not so worried. Question: I assume I can repour the test liquid from the tube with the black dot...

Not sure if this is the right place to post this (should I have started a new post), but since my testing kit doesn't arrive until Friday, I thought I'd stop by the pool store today with a sample of my water, here's the results: CYA 94 TC 0 FC 0 pH 7.8 TA 88 Total Hardness (CH?) 357 Plus...

That's a pretty clever idea. When we filled the pool, we had a water truck come over and fill from the hydrant 2 miles away.

Thanks for the responses and info. My TF-100 kit is scheduled to arrive on July 9th (ordered on the 1st, but got hit by the holiday). And I'm sure after 10 years of using pucks, shock, and other products from the pool store, my pool has too many bad things in it. So after I test, if I need to...

This is my first posting of a question, so I'm trying to explain everything. I need to drain some water from my pool. It's a plaster pool with a row of 3 2x2" tiles on the water line, so we keep the water level to the middle of tiles - 3 inches above the plaster. About one inch of water is...

I just found this site yesterday from a link in cocoontech.com (home automation and security help) and have been trying to absorb a bit of the information. My pool is an indoor pool 10 years old 18 x 42 with a depth of 6.5 feet in the center going to 4' on one side and 3.5' on the other. It...