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10:15am FC 12.5 CC - less than 0.5 Barely any color to the water, but not clear DE filter back running at 12 lbs. 6 lbs DE added. Seems to be working. I inspected and didn't see any cracks in the plastic parts and could not see any tears or gaps in the filter fabric. Had to run to Ace to...

I was expecting (maybe hoping) it would be much worse, covered in algae or slime. At least then I’d have a likely cause fixed. My guess is while this was worthwhile it wasn’t my problem.

Before and after pics.it’s of rust staining. I hope that black isn’t an issues. The before was after backwashing three times.

What gets me is the water at the start of this was already very clear. It's insanely clear now. Very little debri, leaves, etc. I've been skimming and brushing it daily even thought there is virtually nothing to skim. Tiny bit of dirt on the liner seam. But for the FC loss I'd say it was...

I don't know for sure the DE filter is coated in awfulness. I'm just guessing that to be one possibility for my problems. I do know every time I backwash the looking glass show dark brown sludge coming out. Phosphates per two different LPS test were 4348 and 4604. Both using the electronic...

6:30am - SWG still off FC - 8.5 ugh CC - 0.5 OCLT = 5.5ppm Added a gallon. should bring back to 13.5 I guess I'm going to attempt to open the DE filter and pray I don't screw something up, and add 2 lbs CYA. If neither of those work I'm going to add some Seaklear Phosphate remover.

9:55pm FC - 14ppm (to be perfectly clear, only a very slight tint at 13.5ppm) CC - 0.5 (maybe, it was a very slight tint that cleared with one drop Question. If I run the system for say 4 exact hours covered and test FC before and after. Then do the same thing for 4 hours with the filter on...

7am FC - 8 added half gallon (should have boosted to10.5) 8:15 pool guy test said FC - 9 (pool was open to sun for about an hour) 9:30/10am backwashed, added a 1/2 to an inch of new water, added a gallon (gallon +5, sun loss and new water maybe even overall) 11:30 -FC 13. (seems right, maybe...

I am PADI certified.

How am I supposed to check that? Close halfway and go for a swim? Can I go in with 12 ppm FC? Also, how would I even clean that? Would I need to have the entire cover removed and opened? That would be expensive.

Yes, but it was open for about an hour, and it was hot and sunny, and I added a half inch to an inch of water. I wonder about the DE filter holding something nasty. The skimmer looks clean. Maybe under the cover of the bottom drain? But, shouldn't the FC kill that algae?

Okay. 3:30 and FC at 8.5. 7am was FC - 8 added half gallon about 8:15 pool guy test said FC - 9 (pool was open to sun for about an hour) 9:30/10am backwashed, added an inch of new water, added a gallon 11:30 -FC 13. 3:30 - FC back to 8.5. - added a half gallon Sigh.

Well, that's not happening. I'm losing FC for sure, but not that fast.

I'm not beating myself up yet. Actually, this difficulty is making me more confident in handling this pool. Reading and more reading and I see this topic has been discussed here many times. PoolGeek a few times mentioned that certain bacteria found in biofilms can consume CYA. Yikes. We...

I had the pool guy that installed the SWG out to inspect the SWG and ensure it is actually working. He took it off and did a "bucket test" and showed that it was producing chlorine and other than minor calcium build up was functioning properly. I asked him to measure and estimate pool volume...

My unknown CYA issues (could be 20, could be 40) should not be having any effect on the chlorine loss so long as I keep it covered and it is not getting sunlight, right? CYA only helps stabilize chlorine loss due to breakdown from the sun?

Separate question... I have received conflicting information regarding recharging my DE filter. It requires 6 lbs of DE. Some of the LPS / pool guy people have said after each backwash, add the full 6 lbs. Others said add 3 maybe lbs because you won't get all of the old DE out during a...

7am. FC -9. Added half gallon. Still darn clear. Pressure still good too. I’m really quite surprised and a bit dumbfounded that it’s not brown. question for the OCLT during SLAM, does the high chlorine result in clorone loss on its own? Or should it hold at 12ppm overnight?

10:10pm. FC - 8. Dropped 5ppm in 5 hrs 40 mins while covered by the auto cover and thus not exposed to any sunlight. With the SWG at 100%. That seems, significant. Water is still very clear, no cloudy, no algae and no brown iron color. Added 1/2 gallon

I'm steady at FC 13 after 2.5 gallons and the SWG cranked to 100% since about 9am (it's now 4:30pm). How long at a high FC before you typically see metals settle out and turn the water brown? I think the last time we had brown water was within minutes of adding liquid, but that was before any...

Went to a different LPS to get liquid chlorine and had them test for Darns and giggles. Their test were pretty close to mine and the other LPS. Same high phosphates, although surprisingly they said to not worry about it. CYA measured at 21 vs other LPS was at 22 and I'm getting a full vial...

What is the alk test to determine precisely my pool volumn?

Test this morning: FC 0.5 CC 0.5 FC from return jet after cranking SWG to 100% - 1.5 CYA still below the lowest the test shows Turned SWG to 100%, added two gallons 12.5% chlorine. I'll test in a few hours to see where I am at and add more as necessary. Depending on how much water volume I...

It's going to rain here the next few days so seems this morning is a good time to start the SLAM. Update. I'm a moron. The pool guy said my pool was 18,000 and I listened. I just measured and it is NOT 16x32 it is 18x36.5 3' and 8' depth. So it looks to be more around 27,000 gallons (I"ll...