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What jblizzle says

How was the 5900 salt level obtained? Even so, is 5900 VERY high, PRETTY high or not really that high?

Here's a thread discussing CSI: CSI - - - Updated - - - Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry " PH - Acidity/Basicity - Needs to be kept in balance to prevent irritation and protect the pool equipment. (7.2 to 7.8)"

Yeah I've had good luck with very quick shipping from TFTestkits and your plan for continuing the SLAM will suffice until the reagent arrives.

You are done when: CC is 0.5 or lower; You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less); And the water is clear. Sounds like you might be done, but it wouldn't hurt to do another OCLT.

I think the sample sizer helps increase precision: TFTestkits.net Must be used in combination with this: TFTestkits.net These tools help avoid lining up the miniscus each time you test: How to read meniscus on TF-100 test kit.

Just saw this: TFTestkits.net is selling the Complete Refill for the TF-100 test kit for 20% off the regular price. Typically, the refill set costs $45.00, but from July 14, 2017 to July 16, 2017 (12 am EST) it will be 20% off the regular price at $36.00.

I did a TFP search on "moss" and fond: Moss on Waterfall

Yes. CYA 30. PH 7.2-7.5 then start the SLAM. See links in tim5055's post.

There is no problem witha pH at or below 7.8. No need to push it to 7.4. Each pool is different and you might get the pH to ride a little lower with a lower TA.

Check out the Sample Sizer if you want to speed up your testing and increase precision. You also need to use Taylor Calibrated Cylinders with the Sample Sizer. TFTestkits.net TFTestkits.net

What a racket. Blind leading the blind.

Great detail and thanks for all the photos!

We get TA that high in our area depending on water source. I had to work on it a long time to bring my TA down to 70 from over 200. One thing that helped was a change from well water to Sacramento river water in the past year. Another was 35" of rain sine October.

Maybe your pool is smaller than 16k?

:cheers:

25 mL gives you a "finer" result since each drop is 0.2 ppm vs 0.5 ppm for the 10 mL sample. Either way is close enough if you are hitting your target FC for your CYA more often than you are at minimum or below. Precision and accuracy are impacted by how you fill the sample container and how...

What was the CC on those OCLTs and shouldn't you be shooting for FC= 6-8 every night? Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart And just to double check that your CYA is really 50, do you test as outlined on this page (scroll down a bit for the CYA) Extended Test Kit Directions

I know it's frustrating and somewhat confusing, but it will become more clear to you and make more sense if you manage this instead of getting a pool service involved. The pH is going to rise quickly with a high TA. It's ok, you can address that tendency later. Getting your pH to 7.2 for a...

Check out this thread: Breakdown of bleach over time by storage temperature - Page 2 Look for the Julian Date on bleach containers: Chlorine Date Code Decoder/Easy Way to Measure Strength.

SpeedStir is a must and I started using a Sample Sizer which made testing even easier. You need the Taylor Calibrated Cylinder too. I bought several cylinders with one cylinder dedicated for FC testing. http://tftestkits.net/Sample-Sizer-Measuring-Tool-p65.html...

See this chart for how high the FC should be based on your CYA level when you do a SLAM: https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock SLAM: https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl

Drain and refill to lower CYA.

Tablets increase CYA. The only way to decrease CYA is to drain a % of the pool water and refill.

Here's a page to bookmark that will help answer several of your questions: Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Just to be clear, adjusting your SWG should only be related to your target chlorine levels and should not be dictated by pH. pH might tend to rise with a SWG depending on TA, but Ph is adjusted downward with muriatic acid, not by turning down the SWG.

When water evaporates there is no NaCl in it so the water left behind in the pool has a higher concentration of salt. When you add water back into the pool to the original fill level before the evaporation you will return to your original salt ppm. If more water than usual is added through rain...

Lol perfect photo:stirpot:

Wall Whale XL Vs. Sweep Ease -- A quick comparison

The amount of chlorine you use during a SLAM will depend on pool size, CYA level, sunshine, how well you stay on top of your SLAM and how much algae is in your pool.