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Also no click at gas valve if Fenwal is not applying 24V to the gas valve.

There would never be a click at the gas valve if the solenoid coils are open and showing 0 resistance. You didn't answer question about fuse???

Now I see where the fuse is. Do you have a 264A or a 404A as they seem to have different boards? Are you wired for 240V or 120V? I am looking at this manual for your heater https://s3.amazonaws.com/AWSProd/sites/raypakcom/documents/100-10000111.pdf Looking at P 26 of the manual you seem...

Curious as to why you seem to have damaged Fenwal gas valve relay contacts and a damaged gas valve when the 24V fuse is supposed to blow in an excessive amp draw situation? You do have the correct 24V fuse inline after the transformer???

After searching for the Avia installation and service manual I could not find the 5A fuse listed on the control board. Photos of all controls and wiring along with the fuse that you are blowing might be helpful. Might also need photos of the timer wiring as the problem appeared after the new...

Heater should be cleaned and checked regularly. Does not have to be yearly depending on operating enviroment. You may start to have one problem after fixing another because of lack of regular service. It might be best to have a qualified service technician perform a thorough clean and check.

Pilot assemblys have an orifice that meters the gas into the pilot assembly at the entrance of the pilot tubing into the pilot assembly held in place by a brass compression fitting. Over time this orifice can get plugged/restricted by small particles of dirt. The orifice inside the pilot...

It seems that you have a problem with both the Fenwal ignition control and the gas valve. The Fenwal during the ignition sequence should put 24V to the gas valve during the ignition sequence after the ignitor warm up timing. The fact that you read 0 ohms at the gas valve terminals indicates that...

0 ohms at the 2 gas valve terminals would mean that the gas valve solenoid coils are open and you would need a new gas valve. How are you measuring for 24V at the gas valve?? Do you realize that the gas valve is only powered with 24V during the ignition sequence for ~ 7 seconds. The ignition...

16 ohms seem to be a bit low for a silicon carbide hot surface ignitor. Do you have the spiral type ignitor? From your symptoms it seems like you might be having a problem with the gas valve that might have caused a problem with the Fenwal ignition control. Try removing the 2 wires from the gas...

Pretty major repair even if all of the parts needed are available and you can find a technician who is capable of doing the work needed correctly. Damage probably extends beyond what is shown in your photo. Would not recommend attempting to repair.

The green flame would be caused by the flame impinging on the copper tubing of the heat exchanger. You still have one or more of the problems listed above. Vacuuming the heat exchanger may not be sufficient to remove all of the soot blocking the passages between the fins. You might want to have...

How are you lighting the pilot? The push button spark wire doesn't seem to be connected to the pilot assembly? The fusible link is not faulty, it has done its job as a safety in case of flame rollout. It must be replaced and wired back into the circuit. Flame rollout is an indication of a...

Can't tell exactly what heater you have and can't find the manual for your heater and the manual for the EPC series one shows different controls than your photo. Photos of all components, nameplates (heater, gas valve, burner compartment, wiring etc.) might be helpful in figuring out exactly how...

The 1 A fuse is for the 24V circuit. It should have nothing to do with the line voltage circuit. Wiring Diagrams - Hayward HeatPro Installation Manual [Page 16]. Disconnect the transformer secondary wires from the circuit board ( blue and yellow that go to XMRFR) and see what happens. Do you...

Helps greatly if you have the appropriate test instuments. Check that the capactitor is within + or - 10% of the stated rating. Check that the amp draw of the motor does not exceed the rated FLA of the motor. Spin the blower wheel. It should move freely and slowly come to a stop. Even if it...

The difference is the voltage at the motor harness/ board connection pins unplugged ( no load ) or plugged in to the board (under load during ignition sequence).

Blower is not starting = AO error !!! You have not reported voltage to blower motor when connected to the circuit board and motor is powered from the board. No sense in checking for blockages unless the blower motor is running and pressure switch is not closing. Heater should be cleaned and...

During the ignition sequence the gas valve is powered from the "VAL terminal on the fenwal. Remove the gas valve wire from the gas valve to the "VAL" terminal on the fenwal. Check the voltage from the "VAL" terminal to the "GND" terminal on the fenwal during the ignition sequence. You should see...

In what order did you replace the ignition control and the gas valve?

I think that this may be the manual for your heater https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/jandy-legacy-owners-manual-electronic-ignition.pdf. If so then this would be your fenwal ignition control Parts4heating.com: Zodiac R0491300 Ignition Control, Model All, LRZE. There is no...

Just saw the videos. The whole burner flame should look like the flame does at the far end of the burner (defined two tone blue flame). Not sure from videos exactly what the main portion of the burner flame looks like.

The yellow at the pilot is probably due to dirt rerstricting the pilot orifice and a new pilot assembly should correct that. For the heater to run properly it is imperative that there should be no restriction of the flow through the heat exchanger. You can remove the burner tray and put a work...

Flame rollout is indicative of a blockage to the flow of combustion byproducts. What condition were the burners in when you cleaned them? Was there significant debris on top of the burners and in the burner slots? It looks like you have been producing soot on the right side by the pilot...

It looks as if you have multiple areas of concern ( bottom right and midlevel front ). Aphoto of the entire front of the exposed heater would be helpful.

A lot of things seem to be "off" in what you are showing. The 3 pressure switches seem to have different WC setpoints ???? Which one was the correct original ?? Original Blower motor FDXLBWR1930 has 1 black wire and 1 white wire, but the one that you are showing has 1 white wire and a (blue+red)...

Before opening up the combustion chamber to check for any blockages I would follow the AO troubleshooting guide in the heater manual on page 58 and report all of the readings that you get. As to the age of the heater, you should be able to get that from tag on the heater with model and serrial...

Sorry to having been silent for a while but my brother has been visiting and "forced ?" me to play poker constantly for more than a week! Something seems "off" about troubleshooting so far and you have not given actual measurements that you took. I would suggest following troubleshooting chart...

Not sure about total length of the straight runs from the picture. depending on the length of the straight runs and the flexibility of the piping it might be possible to use unions on both of the outside straight runs to connect or possibly compression couplings in both of any of the straight...

This should be the manual for your heater https://ca.hayward.com/media/akeneo_connector/asset_files/U/H/UHS_Service_Installation_011717_RevT_9878.pdf Signature for your equipment and photos of the heater outside and inside (all components from various angles) would be very helpful...