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Sorry, your original photos show the white thermopile wire connected at TP. 2.3 ohms between TP and TH with no wires connected is within normal range for a millivolt gas valve. Reattach thermopile wire to TP. Measure millivolts from TP to the unattached red/orange? wire at TH. If you are still...

Remove white wire at TP and red wire at TH. Measure resistance between TP and TH at the gas valve.

Probably not 2 seperate issues. Please show a well detailed photo of your "universal controller power interface board".

Feel free to follow Allens recommendation as it is just another way of going about the troubleshooting. I will chime in if I feel that I can be of any assistance.

Do you have an above ground pool with a 120 volt power supply to the heater? I am guessing that the fuse that you are blowing is in the 24 volt transformer secondary circuit. This would have nothing to do with the actual power circuit to the ignitor as this ignitor power circuit is initiated by...

You could check the ignitor with the gas turned off. Not sure what " I have a gas detector to verify for gas along with smelling for it of course. " means as you would be checking the ignitor with the gas turned off. I realize that you are trying to use the heater with the least possible...

Most newer motors do not have oiling ports and bearings are sealed. Bearings are at either end of the motor housing where the shaft is supported. Although the ignitor may ohm out correctly, the water contamination was not "distilled water". This would effect a silicon carbide (light black to...

Sometimes a heater that has only been partially submerged in water can be salvageable depending on which and how many parts have seen water intrusion.

In HVAC standard procedure for a heater that has been submerged in water Is to replace the gas valve, replace All electronics and safeties and relays ( they are all considered both unsafe and unreliable after being submerged). Replace the ignitor and dry and clean all other parts. The motor...

Looks like the 3 white hooked posts can be depressed towards the middle in order to remove the part that is marked "lift" for access to the lens.

I don't know if I would want to go down the rabbit hole on this one. The amount of rust/corrosion and deterioration might have you replacing part after part in order to get to the point where the heater can be operated safely

There are several variants of the P=M336A as shown in this manual https://www.poolsinc.com/pdf/raypak/raypak-digital-heater-product-manual.pdf Still don't know which one you have without photos. Also don't know the extent of the damage/deterioration without photos.

What model number Rheem pool heater do you have? Natural gas? There a a few reasons for delayed ignition. Most often it comes down to the source of ignition ( pilot flame, hot surface ignitor, spark etc. ) not lighting off the burners right away, which is why I asked for the model number to see...

Possible cause might be the " don't fix it till it's broke" syndrome. Heaters do need regular cleaning and maintenance. It might be something as simple as dirty burners or blocked orifices causing a delayed ignition.

Have you cleaned the filter, strainer basket and pump basket? What type of filter? In my pool when I lived in AZ I had to regularly remove pine needles that would get caught in the pump impeller.

Just as an aside, if the compressor is overheating and shutting off to cool down during the cooling cycle I would have the compressor run capacitor checked to make sure that it is within + or - 10% of its nameplate rating.

You are dropping too much voltage in the operating/safety circuit! You powerpile is generating 519 mv (could be better... Do you have a good strong pilot flame that is 2 shades of blue with no yellow in it and is the powerpile fairly new? Put one meter lead on TP and check voltages on the...

Is that the pressure switch hanging loose there? The ignitor ohms should be 50-300.

What are the actual millivolt readings that you are getting?? If you are getting 300-400 mv+ from TP to TH the valve should open.

Also if the problem recurs and you do have 24 volts to the contactor coil, you could try lightly tapping on the control board with the handle end of a screwdriver and if the contactor opens you have isolated the cause of the problem to a sticking contactor relay on the control board.

Strange! It is possible that it has something to do with the wiring and by disconnecting and reconnecting you somehow fixed it. Not exactly sure how the contactor remained pulled in when the heater said it was off without checking for voltage to the contactor coil when this anomaly occured. Just...

How old is the heater? Both the flame sensor and the burner below the flame sensor need to be clean bare metal for the flame to be proven and the unit ground must be good. All other burners should also be clean with the slots/holes unrestricted. You will need to take apart as you have noted to...

Although your heater label states 208-240 volts/ single phase (1)/ 50-60 Hz, the note at the bottom states 50HZ! Curious as to what the labels on the compressor, fan motor and transformer state as these are all inductive loads and if labeled for 50HZ some problems could arise. I also see that a...

The wiring diagram would be helpful to isolate the circuit that provides low voltage to the contacor coil because the main control is obviously telling the heater to shut off if the fan is stopping when it says "off".

It would be helpful if you had a multimeter and knew how to use it safely and correctly. What is the brand and model number of your heater so that I could look up the manual and wiring diagram for your heater. If it does stay pulled in when the panel says it should be off (but there is power to...

You also seem to be showing an increase in mv reading from TP to the Temp Control and TP to TH??? What is generating the increased millivolts??? These readings do not seem to be correct.

Most often if the compressor keeps running after the heater should shut down it is an indication that the compressor contactor contacts are welded shut and not opening when the power drops to the contactor coil. This can be caused by increased amp draw due to a weakened or open compressor run...

Most spiral type silicon carbide ignitors are roughly the same with the exception of the ceramic mounting base. You might be able to find a lower cost ignitor as long as the ceramic mounting base is the same.

It appears that the higher priced transformers reflect the Hayward markup. 40C is the ambient temperature rating for most non-oil jacketed transformers. Nothing wrong with using a non Hayward transformer with the same ratings as the original. I do not see an insulation rating on the original...

Both ignitors should be the same. It seems that the higher priced "ignitor"? also includes a gasket kit for the burner box which may be indicated in the price.