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I had a timer mishap a few weeks ago, albeit on my LC injection, I was changing the injection time and didn't enable the stop time. Dumped about 7 gallons of LC IN the pool.

I am... pool is down below 80. I mostly swim early morning before work but I'll be swimming in the afternoons this weekend.

Any luck on your repair?

Austin and surrounds is pretty big - you could probably find a pressure washer service supplier. I've seen posts here on TFP saying that they get like 15 gallon drums of LC from these suppliers.

That picture is looking into the diffuser at the impeller? If so, the impeller looks off-center. Is the diffuser flush with the seal plate - no gaps where its screws into the seal plate?

Does your new motor horsepower match the pumps *original* horsepower? (The impeller is the correct size for the new motor?) Could there be something bouncing around inside the wet end of the pump?

TFP "chlorine injection" search results I have a Stenner pump for injecting chlorine. You should really consider a salt water system.

Did you replace the seals when you replaced the motor? Did you inspect the impeller and diffuser when you had it all apart?

Nice. Thank you. The SDS for HomeDepot's Kem-Tek says it's specific gravity is ~1.1 - more than water anyway.

I agree, a simple inquiry to whatever authority is supposed to do the inspections or enforce the regs couldn't hurt.

I have deduced that from reading between the lines and have been searching for the details here at TFP but they don't seem readily available, other than maybe reading every post in The Deep End. Will a CPO course fill in the gaps?

Yea, it would have been nice to figure all this out before the prices jumped. But it still looks comparable at today's prices.

It wouldn't hurt to figure out the economics now so that when/if you do need to replace a motor you'll know what to do. Looks like a single speed replacement motor runs at about 1.7 kWatts. If you can run a variable speed at 300 watts (0.3 kW) for more hours per day it will probably still...

Saying it a bit differently - I wouldn't replace a working/running motor unless the energy savings for running a variable speed motor at lower rpms offsets its cost. And congratulations on keeping your pump/motor maintained for so long.

Looks like your pool is pretty new.. If you are switching off tablets now you should seriously consider installing a salt water chlorine generator.

Yes to all those things you said. I started thinking about an swcg because I think ran into a batch of lower strength chlorine. I manually dosed with LC for a couple of summers/years and I'm on my third summer with LC injection. I have a very good feel for what the pool consumes but this year...

I replaced my whisperflo motor a few months ago with a Century V-Green motor. If you are confident with the repair you made to the seal plate that would be an option.

Yes.

Thanks, I missed that in the manuals. I really don't know what the pool temp is in the winter months. I'll keep an eye on it this year. And thanks for the alternative breakdown, that's what I was hoping for.

Did you try to run it with the new capacitor? Looks like the motor 230 vac going to it.

TFP has an excellent search feature, TFP search

Keep in mind that Taylor says there can be a +/- 1 drop error for every ten drops. For high drop counts I try to make each drop the same by slowly squeezing a drop out and after it drops relaxing the bottle then do it again. Every once in a while I see a drop that is not like the others. It...

Maintain the white wire (neutral) configuration in your new box.

Seems the Illustrated Installation of Hot Water Tank diagram is similar to your current setup. Your black and red would be the L1 and L2 in the diagram and the N01 and N02 wires would go to your separate loads.

Welcome. Please add the details of your pool and pool equipment to your signature. Make sure you read through the ABCs of pool water chemistry.

You could try to run it with the pump housing and diffuser removed. If it won't spin you could try to give the impeller a nudge, if it runs then the capacitor might be bad. Be careful... you probably should support the motor on both sides so it won't move and be ready to turn it off. The...

That's from the manual for your timer - looks like 120 wiring to me. But if you can you should measure it.

Do you have a voltmeter to check the actual voltage? Maybe a picture of the wiring in the timer would be good.