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When in doubt just pour it back into the mixing bottle and go it again. Direct light into the tube will obscure it more then it really is that's why bright sun or bright light from behind you and the vial gets held waist height in the shadow. Take a peak, still see it add to the next line and...

Once the CYA is met then it's only the fc part you need to deal with. By trial and error say it 2 people saok for an hour it'll use X amount of FC. You want to have an excess amount before the soak so that when the soak is done you're not below the target.

Phosphates are a non issue so don't bother testing for it.

CYA in the spa is a consumable as the water is hot. Once you figure out the loss you won't need to always test and just add it back to the chemistry. You don't need to be at exactly 30 so if it hits 40 or 50 let it be as it'll come down sooner then you think.

The whole install back to the pump looks hack. I'd go with post #2 if room allows the clearance for the other pipe and go up from there with a piece of pipe and coupling.

It'll be much easier to work on when disconnecting as you then have the option to work on a bench and not on the knees.

Been doing it this way ever since.

You're most likely not finding it at homedepot. Best is at a hardware store like Ace and True value with lots of pull out drawers for all kind if small hardware needs, they usually have every size in everything.

You also need to be sure the spa will be able to be heated and used separately from the pool with the proper valve and plumbing setup. A member a short while back had a set back when they were unable to use the spa unless it interfered with the pool rendering it useless in the winter.

To be honest the test strips are pure garbage and toss it into the nearest trash can. The validity of the digital tester as per Amazon is rated accurate but that's with only 18 feedback. Best would be a kit similar to these but I don't know what's available to you where you are located.

On the test sheet from TFTESTKITS.NET there's only one option offered, how interesting never knew.

My bad, didn't see you posted. Thanks for the correction.

Look at this picture I think there's a gasket in there.

8 drops is: 8 x 25ppm =200 ppm hardness and not 80ppm.

You worry about the chlorine side but there's no guarantee that the pump won't die over this time period so having someone look after even to just check and a minor service is worth its weight in gold.

Get all new equipment which should include the largest cartridge filter for which room and the wallet allow, a heater and VSP pump along with a SWG (salt water generator). While your at it you may want automation which would be perfectly timed so brand can all be the same. Should the pool...

Yes, having the opportunity to vacuum is a game changer when needing to meet the three criteria for the end of slam.

A 7" pry bar works for me every time. Amazon.com

If your water is clear with just the green stuff on the bottom you may want to vacuum it up carefully either to waste but then need to replace the lost water or vacuum to the filter and then clean the filter.

I did a few of them last season and are great.

For many reasons

Following

Go slow on the CYA additions as the higher the CYA the more chlorine for the slam. Not your pool so you don't really know the capacity.

Testing the capacitors would be something to be done in the interim while waiting for the new ones.

How thick is that wall without much exterior support.

Make sure the diverter handles are properly oriented on the valve stem or else the the valve position isn't what you think it is. Open the diverter valves and inspect as I've seen a broken valve stem that didn't complete what the handle was telling it to do.

I think your diverter valve on the suction side for the spa is closest to the pump and the pool suction is somewhat restricted the way the valve is pictured and that you also have a single speed pump which has high rpm, may possibly be causing it to pull some flow from the spa eventhough it's in...

The back label has the FC warning of 3 but that's not the way we do things here, as long as your CYA is 30 you can be a high as FC 12 and be perfectly safe. In fact FC of 12 with proper CYA is safer then 3 without the proper CYA level.