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Welcome to the forum. Have you had issues with the existing pump priming? That would be the only effect of poor suction (inlet) piping. Depending on what VS pump you have, you should be able to reduce priming rpm and time. Also you will likely run the VS pump at a lower rpm. All of those things...

Your TC is above 5 and below 10 ish. Test again following the directions given above.

Use the OTO reagent and the left side of the comparator block. Post a picture of what the pool water in that block (Ch side) looks like with 5 drops of OTO in it.

It is highly unlikely that walmart would have the R0003 for CC. I would not overly concern myself with CC level -- just do an OCLT.

If your SWCG is showing 3000 ppm, leave it. You want to be on the low side of salinity for your SWCG system. Remember, if the SWCG is happy, you are happy. No need to mess with the salinity if it is generating.

Only two colors that matter are yellow and purple. Yellow means it is too low- below 7, and purple is too high- above 8.

You do realize that all the water you drain goes back to Lake Mead via the LV Wash. No water is 'wasted'.

Correct. If you use the Ammonium based algaecide that is available at Walmart near you, it will do that. But as you add chlorine to consume the AA it will also be effected by the Ammonium. So it will take a steady stream of small amounts of liquid chlorine to get back to an acceptable FC level...

Polyquat is best as it does not consume the FC as quickly. Just stay away from a copper based algaecide. The Ammonium ones are OK, just realize your FC will be consumed quickly until you eat up the ammonia.

Have you checked Walmart? They tend to carry all those pool store potions.

What is your plan after adding the ascorbic acid? To rid the pool of iron, you really need to drain it. With a vinyl liner pool, you can do partial drains. and that might work to lower the iron content. Best to just work quickly (the AA is pretty instantaneous) than add algaecide if you can.

https://www.pentair.com/en-us/pool-spa/products/lighting/intellibrite-architectural-series-pool-spa-lighting.html

A great pump. Slightly less efficient than the Intelliflo3, but not enough to not get the XF. Parts are readily available. To be honest, you rarely needs 'parts' for these pumps. They last a long time and if a drive or motor fails, it is more cost efficient to get a new complete pump.

If your pH and TA are stable, I would not mess with them. If you add any baking soda (TA), you may have to add acid to control pH. You should get refills for your reagents if that old. Each spring (typically the month of March) TFTestkits sells discounted refill sets.

Welcome to the forum! Thank you for your service! I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

Be aware -- you will struggle to create enough chlorine in 6 hours per day for your pool during the summer.

Welcome to the forum! I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

You can spot treat with Vitamin C in a thin sock. For a whole pool treatment, you use Ascorbic Acid and drain the pool after treatment and replace with iron free water. Read Ascorbic Acid Treatment - Further Reading Be ware that Vitamin C/Ascorbic Acid consumes FC. So be ready to replace the...

Give it a try. Test CYA every two weeks. Raise FC levels to match CYA. When CYA reaches 60 ppm, drain half the pool volume and start over. May need to add baking soda to counteract the acidic nature of the trichlor.

Liquid chlorine. Use of stabilized chlorine is not sustainable and rarely can you manage the FC/CYA levels.

Welcome to the forum! I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

My theory is the unit is designed to be in the water. So keeping it in the water is best. It is submerged by about 2-3 inches of water over the top of the unit.

https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pentair_Superflo_VS_Pumps#Pentair_Automation_Compatibility

Depth is just under 6'. But I keep the cleaner on a shelf that is about 18 inches deep when it is not running.

Oh my. How misguided that person is. Chlorine is chlorine. Your SWCG produces chlorine. Liquid chlorine is the same thing in water. Only thing that can stain a fiberglass pool yellow is iron. Algaecides are a waste of money. Chlorine keeps your pool algae free and sanitary.

Welcome to the forum. Please upload your pictures to the forum and post in your thread. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Picture_Posting_and_Resizing

We have a small pool. But I let it run its normal time run. But I believe the units have a finite number of runs in them. So using them daily reduces their lifespan.

My Active20 has been working now for 8 years. I replaced a cable and the filters. It lives in the pool most of the year. I suspect many people run these cleaners daily. I also believe they have a finite number of uses. We run ours at most twice a week in swim season and most times once per week.

Welcome to the forum. I see you are in Arizona. Be very aware that maintenance of a glass tile can be problematic with the scaling tendencies of your water. I would highly encourage using only softened water for make up water. You will still have to deal with some water line scale so be sure you...

From our Wiki article -- "The SWG cell consists of titanium metal plates coated with a layer of mixed metal oxide catalyst (ruthenium monoxide and iridium). 18-36 volts DC electrical current is passed between the plates."