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You have the relationship reversed. Higher TA pushes pH to rise. You then add acid to lower pH, and it lowers TA A LITTLE BIT. But the pH bounces back up due to the still high TA. Your TA moves slowly lower and lower, after many rounds of acid adds. There will be a point where pH holds in...

My Minn. pool I referenced earlier will be getting a 266K btu heater as replacement - the same size as the old one. 18x36 pool also. BTU's are BTU's, so your pool will take a fixed number to get to, and stay at, a fixed temp for any given time period. The advantage to going big is that it can...

Mine has had one for over 30 yrs. Just signed a contract to replace, since the now second one finally wore out! If I waited for mother nature here in Minnesota, swimming would only be July 4-Labor day. It was worse when we bought the house, and two gigantic pine trees shaded the pool for 90%...

Do some shopping. The bleach you describe sounds like you are looking in the grocery store or similar laundry aisle of your local store. You may need 1 1/2 gallons per day, or more, during the summer. That may be about $13-14 per day, (~$9/gal) unless you can find a really great deal. Get...

Just to circle back - dump that tablet dispenser as fast as you can. Tablets add CYA, and the more there is, the higher your CL needs to be, until it gets to a level where you just can't add any more (cost/capacity/safety.). And then you have to drain the pool to reduce the CYA load. That may...

If your returns in the pool have screw on "eyeballs" or other fittings, take one off and see if there is a normal pipe thread inside the open pipe. I have 3 such in my pool, and they accept standard 1 1/2" treaded fitting from the hardware store. With a few 90 degree elbows and lengths of pipe...

Several years ago we had a big issue with our local lake loosing lots of water. It depends totally on precipitation. Our state University set up monitoring stations for a few years, and found the month for the highest evaporation rate was....November (!) December would have beaten it, but the...

My RJ series came with union adaptors so I could use either 1.5" or 2" pipe. My plumbing was originally 1.5, so I used those. Then I replumbed last summer to 2" and used the ones I saved. The only bummer was the flow switch - it fit the 1.5 fine, and would have fit 2" fine - but is a weld on...

There are many variations on multiport valves. What brand/model will you be over tightening? Or at least what brand/model filter it is part of...or a picture if you can't find identifying information. Why do you want to over tighten it?

My SWCG doesn't actually stop producing until the water temp is below 50. Methinks yours was still doing so, even though you thought it wasn't. And your CL reading is not elevated. It is right where it should be for the level of CYA you have been running. Most municiple water systems strive...

And 1. Amazon sources can be suspect with expired, or about to expire, reagents. 2. Ordering from Taylor has been know to take several weeks to ship.

I didn't review all the posts (new and old), but it seems if the second daylight photo shows your heat pump (photo also has the post with the small electrical box) - then your solution is to slightly expose the outlet pipe coming from the heater, and plumb the new SWCG in a vertical loop...

I use @Newdude's method. Works best if the pump is already running, so things get sucked tight together right away. If you try to connect things, then run over to start the pump, there is a greater chance of sucking air. That may mean loosing prime in the pump. Some systems self prime...

Warm your sample water up to room temp before testing, as low temps can skew test results. Your CYA amounts have been all over the place - are you adding lots of water to the pool? Or it just may be the cooler temps and testing error making the readings bounce around. Surprising that your SWCG...

It does happen - have had it a little after each of the now 3 liners I have had in my pool. BUT, yours seems to be pretty excessive. If were me, I'd push back about them needing to pull it back, and do a better job of smoothing the sand. Looks like most of the shallow end needs it, and...

Hands down the new cell - keeping the current means an on-going risk of going green, and therefore the cost and pain of doing SLAM's. You'll have enough capacity to manage your energy cost with pump run times, even if not the big improvement a new pump would bring. As you contemplate a future...

Did the closing company put antifreeze in any of your lines?? If so, you may want to modify the startup to avoid mixing it in the pool. Not harmful in any way, so perhaps it is just me who doesn't like having things added that don't serve a current purpose.... 7,8, 9 , 10 clarification...

I'd assume at that price there is a guy on site all the time, catching every leaf, and doing many tests a day. And they are using the most expensive pool chems that one can buy in the region. And still making a huge profit..... But it depends on the contract, as well as the governmental...

First call I would make would be to the county (or other local governmental) Health Department, and find out how they classify it. Then which regulations they apply to it. Being shared between so many independent users, there may be lots of public or commercial pool regulations (like having...

Make sure to add an extra valve and waste line before the filter, so you can pump to waste if you ever have to lower the pool. I miss the option to be able to bypass the filter and just be on recirculate - but honestly, I have had no reason to ever need it (or even think that I need it), after...

OK, so it sounds like you are either manually flipping the switch that runs both the pump and the Jandy SWCG when you want them to run, or there is a timer that does that on a repeating schedule. As long as that is the only way to turn on the Jandy (the pump has to be on also), then the...

The CP control box replaces the Jandy one, and like Jandy can be run on either 120 or 240 volts. So a simple connection swap with the existing wiring. It is critical that the SWCG not be powered unless the pool pump is running. The Jandy can connect to a Jandy pump, but since you don't have...

I tried to look up the Klean-Strip Green brand seen on the Home Depot site. On Klean-Strip's site, nothing about not for pool use. No clue why it is "green" except "lower fumes". Label does not indicate strength, SDS says just somewhere between 10-30% (trade secret, apparently). I suppose if...

Also, post a picture of the filter that includes the plumbing going to and from it. A broader view is better than one too close. These are pretty simple things to install - so if when you open the pressure gauge at the top to bleed off air - and nothing ever comes out, something is way off.

I don't think we're understanding what an "overflowing" pool is. More pictures would help. Same for what you call a portable vacuum. And finally, the plumbing and equipment area, especially how it connects to the filter. That is an awful lot of dirt to get out!

Show us a picture of the pool, your setup for manually vacuuming, and the plumbing going to/from your filter. It will make it so much easier to then advise. With floc, after it settles on the bottom, one MUST set your vacuum so that water is discharged on the ground or into a drain - never...

Most common is the gasket/o-ring for the lid on the pump. Inspect for dirt or damage. Generously lube. Perhaps replace. Second most common is any drain plug at the bottom of the pump. Same instructions for the o-ring..... Third might be the union connecting the inlet pipe to the pump basket...

Do a search on anodes here. The consensus is that they are rather useless. But there are a several threads that go deep into the "why"......

WHEW!

Yikes! I missed this part! Chlorinators must be AFTER the heater. They are the last thing before going to the pool. You NEVER want the chems attacking your very expensive heater core. Your builder messed up. At least make him replumb. But maybe better would be to just have him remove it...