Search results

1. Very weather resistant 2. I had some left over from one of my woodie boat rebuilds 3. Easy to work, I simply T&G'd a length of 1x6 plank, cut it to three sections, and glued it up to make the square panel. 4. Looks nice. My lighting controller is mounted to a similar panel, in a...

It appears I can replace the entire VFD/control panel on my pump, for $650'ish. If I knew this was a slam-dunk to resolve the issue, I'd do it. Anyone got the inside scoop on whether the nuisance tripping was tied to the VFD only, or something internal to the motor?

Decision made: I'm just going to plumb in the Dang RJ-45+, without GFCI for now. If it was legal my entire lifetime until 5 years ago, it can't be that terribly concerning. I'll research what needs to be done to upgrade this pump to post-2022 electronics, or conversely, just replace the whole...

I forgot to add one factor. Placing anything on back of my current mounting panel would be a non-compliant install, as it does not have the free space required for access. The distance between fence and panel would not actually inhibit use, but it would be a code violation.

BTW, when I talk about GFCI "modules", this is what I meant: These can be just wired inline with the load, and take up almost no space on the panel board. Plumb to breaker panel with liquid tight conduit. Only trouble with the unit shown, is that I don't know if it will nuisance trip as much...

Yep, that load center is the exact one sitting in my Amazon shopping cart right now, along with a QF220A breaker. Unfortunately, it's still a bit wider than the space available on the back of my panel. I was hoping to resolve all of this real quick, before installing the new RJ-45+. But if I...

Here's one for you, JamesW. Do you think a mains filter placed between the breaker and pump might eliminate nuisance trips? If the problem is conducted immunity, that may resolve it.

Yep, I knew this (I'm an EE), but wasn't going to bother pointing it out. The "6 mA" trip that so many refer to is just a misunderstanding of the spec. If I recall, all Class-A must test to a standard which does not trip at 4 mA, and must trip at 6 mA, or put otherwise... they have a trip...

Yep... good recall! What I'd love to do is just move that receptacle box to the back side, and stick the new RJ-45+ controller on the left hand of the panel board. Even if I have to make up a slightly larger panel.... no big deal. But I'd really like to avoid messing with the conduit and long...

Dang... you may have just nailed it. Pump was purchased 1 year ago, delivered May/June 2023. But I just went out and checked, and there's a date sticker on the pump of 08/21/2021. What is the date of this supposed fix? Does my pump fall before it? If so, the easiest solution may be to just...

I had so many nuisance trips with the Cutler Hammer CH GFCI breaker on my Pentair VS pump, that I had to temporarily swap it out for a regular CH220 breaker. It's a hardwired circuit, no receptacles, which historically did not require GFCI. But it's a new (2023) install, and I believe latest...

Excellent. Thanks, guys! I think my electronic meter is just garbage. As noted, I'm mostly measuring pH when my FC is 8 ppm or below.

I remember reading about the higher FC levels promoted by TFP making the typical color tests for FC inaccurate, as the reagents can bleach out. So, we have the drop test, which works great. But can the same happen with pH test reagents? I'm trying to lower my Total Alkalinity, and of course...

Fixed the check valve location:

No, I didn't. That's a very hard rubber matt designed for tiling factory floors used by forklifts and other heavy equipment, nearly as hard as the plastic base of the heat pump chassis itself. It won't compress at all under the ~150 lb. weight of this heat pump, it might as well be tile, but...

I did. I think I did? There is no such thing as over-thinking. There's only thinking of everything, or not. I saw this in your diagram, and liked your logic there, the check valve totally blocks off the heater when there's no forward pressure to open it. But then I saw that the RJ-45+...

Figured this might help:

Okay, I managed to fit it all onto the existing pad, and even re-use these almost-new Jandy 3-way and check valves, by just grabbing the port OD's with 2" fittings. Yeah, it's a little bit of a goofy 2" + 1-1/2" mash-up, but it all works out okay. I didn't bother filling in every little...

I came across this in the CircuPool manual: How many of you guys are running yours inverted? With all my plumbing slammed down against the slab, it'd be much easier to plumb all of this up in non-inverted configuration. If I go inverted, I need to elbow up to a higher plane to fit the RJ cell.

Dang. That thread should just be the landing page for this whole site and forum. I wish I knew that existed a few weeks back, as it answers most of the questions I've had. Really, you guys need to just direct everyone to that one thread! :D ... and, I suspect that most of the...

I understand you guys like to follow that. I'm just trying to understand why. CircuPool manual says to target FC = 1.0 - 3.0 ppm for CYA = 30 - 50 ppm, but Pool Math says target 5 - 7, with absolute min 3.0 ppm. Put otherwise, if 1.0 - 3.0 ppm is insufficient, then CircuPool is really setting...

Received my RJ-45+, and reading the manual now. It calls out FC target = 1.0 - 3.0 ppm for CYA = 30 - 50, or roughly 5% average. Pool Math tells me 5.0 - 10.0 for CYA = 60, or roughly 12.5% average, 2.5x higher than CircuPool. Even the bottom of the range in pool math = 5/60 = 8.3%, whereas...