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I was thinking about this as I covered the pool last night. It had been hot for 3 days, so I had the cover off a lot, but it's going to be cool and rainy the next 3 days, so the cover will likely stay on. I can lose 3.5 ppm on sunny and hot days when we leave the cover off, or less than 0.5...

Oh, forgot to address test time. I test every evening before dusk, usually 7pm - 8pm. But since I'd been getting low readings the last few evenings, which really didn't make sense given SWG setting and historic losses, I decided to do a morning test or two in-between, figuring FC should be...

Thanks! I haven't added fill water in a few months, we've been getting plenty of rain. But when I do, the TA and CH are: CH = 150-160 ppm TA = 170 - 180 ppm I'll have to check pH, haven't ever bothered, but also haven't added water in too long for it to matter.

Figured I should come back and close the loop on what I did for the cord feed-thru: Simple size #9 rubber stopper with hole, re-drilled to size of cord and slit with utility knife. Permanent, reusable system, for all of $10 and about 5 minutes of effort.

Okay, some updates: Despite continual aeration via one return turned skyward, pH seems to hold pretty steady around 7.4 - 7.6. You can see all of my chemical adds (or lack thereof) in PoolMath. I used up the 2 lb. of Dichlor I had in the cupboard, mostly just to get rid of it and toss the...

I think it comes down to hours uncovered. FC losses will be higher when uncovered, at the lower CYA. But with a cover installed, losses are minimized, and lower CYA lets me run lower FC... and probably net a little less CC. Did I get that right?

lol... dumb luck!

We're opening it for a few hours most afternoons, this time of year. Spring / fall, that can drop to weekends only, but I suppose I could do it more. I find the CC chlorine smell usually dissipates within a few minutes of removing the cover, but maybe that's because I used to run much lower FC.

Good. And that's what I was figuring... weeks. That's the "improvement" was alluding to earlier. :D I had a sprinkler on one return, and that gets me about +0.2 ppm/day, when I'm below 7.6. Then, just the other day I realized I could aim the other return up, and gain even a little faster.

Thanks, ajw! Back to the OP... here's my plan: I will go ahead and raise CYA some, since I already bought the bucket of product, and it should lower my FC losses. Adding CYA will probably help bring TA closer to target, but I won't bother with anything else for the sake of chasing TA...

Glad I have you guys! Okay, just tested the fill water: CH = 150-160 ppm (dep on when you call color change) TA = 170 - 180 ppm (measured twice) Lesson 1: no bonus for being near middle vs. edge of range. But if measurement accuracy is low, being on edge of range might really mean being out...

RJ 45+ has operated just a few days, so nothing yet! Just installed it last weekend.

Most of the conflicting info came from CircuPool, Aquacomfort, and the manufacturers of the rest of my equipment. The rest came from my pool store. I haven't even looked at unsubstantiated sources. Okay good. Got it. Actually just ran out and pulled a sample of fill water. CH is around 150...

You did see my TA was 140 ppm? You're saying that's not a real problem?

Honestly, it's difficult for a new user to know which recommendations are valid, or which should be ignored. There is a lot of conflicting information out there. Typical fill water here has total hardness (Ca + Mg) = 250 ppm, but I don't know what part of that is Ca vs. Mg. I had also...

That's what I've been doing, but using a sprinkler to speed the pH recovery. But when I lower pH to 7.2, my CSI goes crazy low, like -0.9 or -0.95. I'm not sure if that even matters for a vinyl pool, maybe more for my paver bullnose tile surround, but it sure makes pool math throw some warning...

I'm fine with that, but be aware, there are differing opinions on this attitude. I was previously admonished for even having the gall to question the absolute wisdom of PoolMath. On the flip side, most of the corrections are easy enough that I don't mind nailing it right to the middle of the...

It was 140 ppm two weeks ago. It's only at 90 ppm today, thanks to a few gallons of muriatic and many days aerating. But Pool Math is still recommending to lower it a little further, and I was told to "just follow Pool Math". ??? I've never missed a day, or even an hour, of useable swim time...

That explains a lot. My TA ended up high in part due to measurement error, but now I know it was also in part due to using a lot of pH Up early in the season. I was constantly finding my pH low early in the season, whether due to CYA addition from Frog or other causes, and pH Up was my...

The usual advice I see on this forum is to aerate to bring pH back up, after any additions of muriatic or cyanuric acid, when adjusting TA or CYA levels. But in our cool climate, my pool temperature drops quite fast when aerating, which is costing me a bloody fortune in heater run time. Is...

What’s the actual penalty of having low CYA in a SWG pool? It seems lower CYA = lower FC requirement, and thus less SWG demand = longer cell life. Or does the CYA reduce burn-off by so much that it makes up for the higher demand? I’ve seen that burn-off does increase a bit with FC demand (I...

Cool. Thanks! Since this 2 lb. of dichlor will really only raise my CYA a few points, I'll have to see what my local store has for CYA/stabilizer products, to get the rest of the way to middle of range.

Thanks, guys! I just saw these last two messages, too late to follow them, but things held pretty well with SWG just bumped up to 20% Pre-party: FC = 5.5 ppm Post-party: FC = 5.0 ppm These tests are all using the 10 mL sample, and my target range is 3.0 - 9.0 ppm. I was hoping we'd land a...

Since this thing has the ability to keep pool chlorinated at a setting of just 5% to 15%, bumping it to just 20% represents a full doubling of my average rate. So, I did that while mowing this morning, about 4 hours pre-party. I'll recheck it late tonight, and add LC for any net loss greater...

First pool party on the SWG. Just keep FC at my target? No shock? I could easily turn up the SWG to compensate higher than average FC loss, as I’m typically running it at just 5% - 20% to stay on target.

Nice! I was thinking of splitting one of those rubber stoppers folks use for winterizing their returns, but plumbers putty could definitely do the job.

So, I went a little beyond the usual wire loom, for protecting the flow switch wire, since I just saw too much potential for an animal to grab, chew, or tug on it: The wiring runs in conduit underground and up to a small box mounted behind SWCG controller, and then short pigtails into the...