pavers vs concrete vs tiles

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jp4120

Well-known member
May 11, 2012
124
Norristown, PA
26K gal, plaster, concrete decking, cantilevered coping, 27 years old, raised attached stone spa - 1 1/2 HP purex triton pump (1998), 48 sq ft. Pentair DE filter with multi-port (2013), Polaris Quattro w/booster pump (2019), Pentair master-temp 400k heater (2015) - philly burbs.

getting some estimates for a renovation - sick of looking at the cracks and the stains in the cement (yes due to the original cement guys they put in too few expansion joints and didn't set up drainage correctly so water/dirt pools up)
imagine our surprise when we got multiple cracks in the larger areas within the first 2 years lol.
since we are in southeast PA sometimes winter can be an extended freeze (like last winter) any opinions on cement vs pavers vs tiles.
also they used cantilivered coping which i assume was cheaper for them but means any changes to the deck cascades to new coping stones, new tile, new plaster, probably new equip, probably new spa, new piping......i am thinking $100k but that could be low.
does everyone agree coping stones are much preferred over the cantilevered decking for coping? (ours cracked constantly on the inside and has to be patched every couple years with quickset morter)
any advice would be welcome.
 
also the mortar joints on our raised stone spa wasn't done correctly i assume the masons used a bad ratio so that has had to be repaired mulitple times - i used thinset to reset the loose stones and also use thinset to patch the original mortar...still cracks every winter but is a quick patch job each spring but the structure is solid now.
 
If you have annual repairs because of freezing, there is something inherently flawed. Could be materials, improper application/install of acceptable materials and/or just a bad design.

Concrete, paver or tiles can all be done, but each has some things that need to be taken into account to last and not be need regular repair. No matter which one you choose drainage and proper subsoil/base prep is the key to making them last.

Figure out what look you want. Share photo of the current state and it's issues. and share ideas of what your plans are. Rendering would be helpful for getting feedback.
 
i have attached some pics - doesn't look horrible for 27 years old - they did a good job with the plaster even though some staining from leaves or late openings over the years - it will lighten up a bit as the chlorine bleaches them out
the cement decking looks extra dirty cause we just opened on 3 days ago and due to constant rain havent had a chance to power washed the decking yet
also they poured concrete right up against the foundation without using a waterproof membrane so that caused water to sit against the house and then rotting of the facia boards and rotting of the floor joists after 10 years (discovered during basement french drain work) so had to have a crew jackhammer out 8 feet of the concrete replace the facia boards and repair joists then put in a membrane and replace the concrete with grey Trex.
also you see the ineffective white drainage line that is cracking and just sits on top of subdecking material and doesn't really drain anything.
i am looking for ideas from a couple renovation companies that i will meet with this summer....since everything is linked and i hate the decking i will probably need to replace everything once i start...but any advice or feedback is welcome including what you think it will cost....of course if the price is too high it may not be worth the total renovation but i want to go down the path of getting solid estimates first. IMG_0154.jpegIMG_0156.jpegIMG_0152.jpegIMG_0147.jpegIMG_0153.jpegIMG_0148.jpegIMG_0151.jpegIMG_0150.jpeg
 
I see several areas where it changes grade.
No idea what prices are in PA, but that demo is decent.
Also, unless you regrade, I wouldn't bother with a sand base for pavers.
Might as well add area drains, plaster looks a bit beat up so not sure if it's almost due for a replaster.
 
Pavers is going to up there, there is a lot of cutting and fitting with all the curves. Grading/drainage between the house and pool is the biggest area of concern. Looks like your yard/area is pretty flat, are there drywells for drainage or is there somewhere to drain water away to?

For a cost guess this was $55k:
Before.jpg

During.jpg

After.jpg

There is a french drain on the fence side and drywell was put on the pool stair side for it to drain too.

Now it looks like this but with more furniture:
Now.jpg
 
we did have a french drain put in between the pool and the house (not under the cement) which helped stop 99% of basement water after the pool was built. this pulls water to the right side of the property (the low end). We also had drains installed in the right corner of the house (low end) also had a drain put into the pool equipment area - all draining via underground piping to the low end of the property - very happy with the results
we do have a sump pump and downspouts going into piping that drains into the left side of the property but along the side of the house.
I am hesitant to get into re-grading because that can be a huge mess but will put in multiple drains in the new tile/paver/concrete decking and will put in a french drain or 2 running into the side yard on the high end of the property and connect into the existing underground drainage pipes on that side.
i think that should take care of drainage issues but will speak with the reno guys about it.
the $100k is my guess because i got an reno estimate of $70k 5 years ago but that was anthony-sylvan but i am thinking of using a smaller company that would be higher quality but more expensive.
 
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