Not sure if it's user error or a bad test kit

mblind

New member
Apr 25, 2025
3
Iowa
Pool Size
10600
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
TL;DR - Is it the test kit or a ID10T error on my part.

This is my second summer with a pool and I am still learning, so it is entirely possible that I am doing something wrong. My pool is a 15x30 oval with about 10,600 gallons. It is a chlorinated pool, not a salt water. I opened my pool on April 16th only because it best fit my schedule. I have been testing the water about every 3 or 4 days concentrating on my TA and pH before others. I have been using both a Taylor K-2005 drop kit and then using a test strip just to see how they compare. I like to test once a week with the drop kit and base any chemical add-ins based on that. I use a test strip once a day just to see trends. I do not make any chemical decisions based on test strips.

The results are way, way out of whack between them. The test strips consistently come back with the following: Hardness 250, TC 1-2, FC 1, TA 80, CYA 30, and pH 7.8
The drop test TC 3, FC 1, TA 180, CYA 90, and pH 8. I am most concerned about the TA being so drastically different. I took a sample to a pool store and had them test it. Here is their results: Hardness 139, TC 1.7, FC 1, TA 137, CYA 80, and pH 7.8. Again, I am concentrating on the TA and pH first before adding anything to adjust the other levels. That wide discrepancy with the TA reading between the test strips and drop kit have me baffled the most, and the pool store test result of 137 falls in between the two. Yet it is still over 40 ppm lower than the drop kit. I am questioning my method of using the test kit.

Here are my steps: Rinse test vessel obtain sample from well below the surface. Add two drops of R-0007 and swirl. Add 5 drops R-0008 and swirl to mix. I then add one drop of R-0009 and swirl. I repeat this until the mixture turns red. It takes me 18 drops to turn my water red which would mean my TA is 180. I think I'm doing it correctly, but am I missing something? Could the test kit be bad? The reagents have an expiration of 10/25 so it shouldn't be that. Should I maybe replace the reagents anyway?

I want to trust the drop kit over the test strips. This past week I have added two additions of muriatic acid of 32 ounces diluted in a 5 gallon bucket.

Thanks if you can enlighten me.
 
TL;DR - Is it the test kit or a ID10T error on my part.

This is my second summer with a pool and I am still learning, so it is entirely possible that I am doing something wrong. My pool is a 15x30 oval with about 10,600 gallons. It is a chlorinated pool, not a salt water. I opened my pool on April 16th only because it best fit my schedule. I have been testing the water about every 3 or 4 days concentrating on my TA and pH before others. I have been using both a Taylor K-2005 drop kit and then using a test strip just to see how they compare. I like to test once a week with the drop kit and base any chemical add-ins based on that. I use a test strip once a day just to see trends. I do not make any chemical decisions based on test strips.

The results are way, way out of whack between them. The test strips consistently come back with the following: Hardness 250, TC 1-2, FC 1, TA 80, CYA 30, and pH 7.8
The drop test TC 3, FC 1, TA 180, CYA 90, and pH 8. I am most concerned about the TA being so drastically different. I took a sample to a pool store and had them test it. Here is their results: Hardness 139, TC 1.7, FC 1, TA 137, CYA 80, and pH 7.8. Again, I am concentrating on the TA and pH first before adding anything to adjust the other levels. That wide discrepancy with the TA reading between the test strips and drop kit have me baffled the most, and the pool store test result of 137 falls in between the two. Yet it is still over 40 ppm lower than the drop kit. I am questioning my method of using the test kit.

Here are my steps: Rinse test vessel obtain sample from well below the surface. Add two drops of R-0007 and swirl. Add 5 drops R-0008 and swirl to mix. I then add one drop of R-0009 and swirl. I repeat this until the mixture turns red. It takes me 18 drops to turn my water red which would mean my TA is 180. I think I'm doing it correctly, but am I missing something? Could the test kit be bad? The reagents have an expiration of 10/25 so it shouldn't be that. Should I maybe replace the reagents anyway?

I want to trust the drop kit over the test strips. This past week I have added two additions of muriatic acid of 32 ounces diluted in a 5 gallon bucket.

Thanks if you can enlighten me.
The test strips are garbage and can’t be trusted. Don’t bother using them.

It’s better and safer to add acid directly to the pool water. Slowly in front of a return jet.
 
I have been using both a Taylor K-2005 drop kit and then using a test strip just to see how they compare
They are about the same accuracy, which is not very. Ans both are vague comparison tests without an actual value.

You need a fas/dpd test for actual, and reliable FC values.

I am concentrating on the TA and pH first before adding anything to adjust the other levels.
Sounds poolstore-y. Worry about the long term things while the short term thing swamps you. (High CYA and low FC)

You'll need to drain to lower the CYA and refilling will throw off your TA/Ph. Abandon that for now.
Could the test kit be bad? The reagents have an expiration of 10/25 so it shouldn't be that. Should I maybe replace the reagents anyway?
Was it stored climate controlled ? If so they're good for a long time.
 
They are about the same accuracy, which is not very. Ans both are vague comparison tests without an actual value.

You need a fas/dpd test for actual, and reliable FC values.
Thanks! I guess I should have purchased the K-2006 kit rather than the K-2005. As a person who is just starting on this journey, I did not know what the difference was. All I saw was one was about $10 cheaper. :rolleyes:
Sounds poolstore-y. Worry about the long term things while the short term thing swamps you. (High CYA and low FC)
Well, to be truthful, I have not sought out the advice from a pool store. The only thing I have done with a pool store is had them open and close the pool last year since I did not know what I was doing. I watched and learned and did my own opening this year. I know my CYA is high. I was hoping that I could address this in a slightly different way which does involve draining as that is the only way to decrease CYA. Read on.
You'll need to drain to lower the CYA and refilling will throw off your TA/Ph. Abandon that for now.
Unfortunately, I am unable to drain the pool down the whole 4000+ gallons it will take to decrease my CYA by amount that I would need. I was thinking that I could address this in stages. I was planning on draining a few hundred gallons (about 700 gallons) each time I vacuumed to waste and/or backwashed, that I could bring down the CYA a little each time. The people who owned the home prior used an auto chlorinator. When I opened last year, the person asked if I wanted it reattached. I had no idea what it was and asked his opinion. He said they have their pros but he did not recommend them. I do not use it. My thought is that the CYA would go down some each time and I would get it down to where it was needed. I did use stabilized pucks in a floater last summer. I have not used them this year and went back to a granular chlorine so I would not be adding to the level of CYA. Based on my calculations, I figured that I could have the 4000 gallons replaced in about a month. In the mean time, I wanted to adjust my TA and pH and then get my FC in line. Am I wrong on this? Since CYA doesn't rise without adding it, and since I am draining a bit at a time, shouldn't my CYA go down too?
Was it stored climate controlled ? If so they're good for a long time.
As climate controlled as possible. I keep my kit inside in a cabinet when not in use. I have ordered some replacement testing solutions just to be sure.
 
I have not sought out the advice from a pool store
You got industry advice one way or the other. We call it pool store advice as that where most people get it, but whether it was a neighbors pep talk, books, online reading, etc, the industry advice puts way too much focus on Ph, TA and CH while blowing off the chlorine part which is the critical one for being sanitary.


Since CYA doesn't rise without adding it, and since I am draining a bit at a time, shouldn't my CYA go down too?
You got it. But multiple drains also removes good water, so it gets less efficient each round. Let's use 50% for simple math, the first round removes 50% of the original water, then 25%, then 12.5%, then 6.25%. You drained 200% of the pool volume to get to 93.75%.

The #s are more favorable with smaller drains such as 10%, but the decimals are longer and i wasn't feeling more math this morning. Its still early. Anywho, just getting the theory across, multiple drains will get you there just not as quick as many think.
 
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I wanted to adjust my TA and pH and then get my FC in line. Am I wrong on this?
Yes, you are wrong. Chlorine is king. Go to Menards and get some liquid chlorine (if Menards is close). Get your FC up to target range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Do that first, do that fast.
Get some muriatic acid at Menards. Use that to lower your pH.
You did not report CH from your test kit. Test that and report.

You need to get chlorine in that pool, NOW. Use liquid for now.

Test for Algae after you get some chlorine in the pool. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
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