I may be bringing this issue here a little too early. Since opening my pool this year the water had turned cloudy on the second day. I am someone that has always taken the water to the pool store to have it tested and in between even used strips to keep an eye on the chemistry. After this problem I have now found this site and purchased a TF-100 Pro test kit (due to me Friday) and will start taking control of my own pool water. I have always used BIOguard products and I used their pucks in an inline chlorinator and their granular shock, A trichlor an dichlor product. After going to the store with the cloudy water sample the free chlorine was 0 and CYA reading 114. They told me to pour in 14 scoops of the granular shock to "break" the bound Chlorine. I did that took a test in (all the while the water is getting cloudier) the next day and got a 0.4 free chlorine and 136 CYA reading. they began to try to tell me to turn the pump off and let it "settle". I asked if the CYA was too high and if I needed to drain the pool and put in fresh and they said no. Now i know through reading on here and other places that the CYA is much too high. I drained 50% of the water and filled it back up yesterday. I turned off the puck chlorinator and dumped 1 gallon of liquid chlorine in the pool last night, I waited 30 minutes used a strip and got next to 0 free chlorine reading the CYA on the strip had come down considerably from yesterday. I dumped another gallon of liquid in the pool and then waited till this morning with the filter running. this morning the water was much clearer but same result on the strip. I put in 1 more gallon of chlorine and came to work. I know i am in a spot where i need that test kit. I don't trust going back to the store but i cant figure out after draining 1/2 and re filling that I still have no free chlorine. Luckily its hasnt turned green but i am afraid that is coming if I cant resolve this issue.
Free Chlorine issue
- Thread starter Rob Plummer
- Start date
It is possible you might have an ammonia problem. See here: Ammonia - Further Reading
When you get your kit, post a full set of readings, and do the chlorine test in the article above, to see if it gets used up really fast.
Cloudy means algae, usually - but we might be dealing with the after effects of the Bioguard products. What ones have you used, and when?
Keep adding liquid CL, as you have, until we get the test results, and the additional information.
When you get your kit, post a full set of readings, and do the chlorine test in the article above, to see if it gets used up really fast.
Cloudy means algae, usually - but we might be dealing with the after effects of the Bioguard products. What ones have you used, and when?
Keep adding liquid CL, as you have, until we get the test results, and the additional information.
Kaptain
Well-known member
- May 5, 2025
- 67
- Pool Size
- 22000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Well, I am not yet comfortable at giving pool advice since I was kinda in your shoes only a week ago. However, I can tell you that you have come to the right place and welcome to the party.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Until your kit comes just add 5ppm worth of liquid chlorine each day. This will keep things from getting worse but its not meant to be the cure. Just replacing whats lost each day.
Don’t do anything else but keep the filter running and vac if needed.
It uses more water draining and refilling in increments so until you truly know your cya you’re just in a holding pattern. Once you know your accurate cya level and have your kit in hand you can exchange the appropriate amount of water and move forward with the
SLAM Process.
Many bioguard products also contain copper so a hefty water exchange will thankfully help reduce that level too.
If you are registering cya and it’s not diminishing (aside from the amount expected from your water replacement) then it’s unlikely you have ammonia.
The strips should not be relied upon- they bleach out very easily and will lead you astray.
We will be awaiting your results!
Don’t do anything else but keep the filter running and vac if needed.
It uses more water draining and refilling in increments so until you truly know your cya you’re just in a holding pattern. Once you know your accurate cya level and have your kit in hand you can exchange the appropriate amount of water and move forward with the
SLAM Process.
Many bioguard products also contain copper so a hefty water exchange will thankfully help reduce that level too.
If you are registering cya and it’s not diminishing (aside from the amount expected from your water replacement) then it’s unlikely you have ammonia.
The strips should not be relied upon- they bleach out very easily and will lead you astray.
We will be awaiting your results!
This.
Find a good source of liquid chlorine. You will need it.
Brush everything. If you have steps, take them out and clean them while you wait for the test kit. Oh and sand filters are the slowest so you'll need a hefty dose of pool owner patience once you start killing algae.
thank you all for your reply's. as I said the test kit cant come soon enough! I will add the liquid chlorine daily until then and vac if i see it needs it. I don't see anything currently on the bottom etc. as far as the Bioguard chemicals I have been using they are as follows, weekly Bioguard backup 2 algae prevention, 2 oz. per week. Smart Schock weekly or as needed (this is what I put 14 scoops of in there) normally 2 scoops a week. Silkguard complete tabs in the chlorinator, just kept it filled all summer. that was my regular routine as well as vacuum when dirt was on the bottom, I would usually shock when we had people over to swim after we were done as well. also noted on the strips for sure, they will not be used once I get my test kit.
to clarify, the strips aren’t useful even now. Once chlorine levels get above what the strip can handle, they bleach out and fool you into thinking the chlorine is low. So you may have enough chlorine and not even know it.
I never even thought about that. the total chlorine on the strip shows up as high but the free chlorine on the strip shows none. but like you said it could just be because of that.
They are mostly random number generators, but they don’t even generate actual numbers, just vague ranges that change depending on how long you held it under water and how long it’s been out of the water, or how long it’s been since the bottle was unsealed.
I will say tonight as I came home the pool looks relatively clear. maybe a tinge in the water, is there a way to upload pictures here?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
There’s another thread going right now about a similar issue- the strips only go so high and he actually has 5x’s the amount of fc shown on the strip. Its a crapshoot with the strips.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes I totally am finding that out. As I said the test kit cant get here soon enough! Come on Friday
one more day of putting in the 5ppm liquid chlorine and today even the slight tinge is gone! the water is back to crystal clear, I am still guarded until i get my test kit but it must be a good thing that it is back to being so clear. so a couple of questions. once everything is in balance, do you all just use a liquid chlorine? what about chlorine pucks for stabilizer. i also before this just purchased a $250 bucket of the dichlor shock. but after this i am afraid to use it. any advice? or direct me.
Once you have a reliable test kit, you can decide if you want to add more CYA or not by using pucks or dichlor. Note that the higher your CYA gets, the higher your FC needs to be to keep the water sanitary. You can choose to:
1. Use the dichlor/trichlor and dump the water once CYA gets too high.
2. Switch to liquid chlorine and leave the CYA alone.
3. Get a salt chlorinator and have it make chlorine for you.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,117
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Use
PoolMath effects of adding to see what each thing you add will do to each parameter BEFORE using it.
The key is to not blindly add things. Everything has pros & cons.
Dichlor adds approximately 1ppm of cya for each 1ppm of fc it adds. It is also acidic. (Lowers ph & ta)
Using it for shock/slam increases cya quickly and can tank ph/ta in a hurry.
Trichlor adds approximately 1ppm of cya for every 2ppm of fc it adds.
It is also acidic (lowers ph & ta)
Liquid chlorine simply adds fc and a little salt.
Salt water chlorine generators simply add fc and require a specific amount of salt to operate.
Cal hypo adds fc, calcium, and a dab of salt.
Too much cya and maintenance becomes impractical- more cya requires you to have more fc.
The only way to lower cya is to replace water.
Too much calcium causes scaling.
The only way to lower calcium levels is to replace water.
No need to be scared- just be informed.
Our goal is not to frighten but instead inform & empower.
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com
If you haven’t opened the dichlor return it.
It is one of the most expensive ways to chlorinate your pool in more ways than one.
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
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Thank you for the advice, definitely makes sense, just wish i had known this when i started 4 years ago. i like many just listened to the pool store and what they said to do. i got my test kit today, i am reading up on how to use it. some initial results
the free chlorine - this was hard I could barely see the pink and it disappeared after 1 drop so .5? but then adding the CC reagent it also cleared up after 1 drop.
ph is 7.2
I did the regular chlorine test and it didn't even change color
I tried the CYA test and I think I got 75? keep in mind I just emptied half the pool water so it had to be really high (4 years of dichlor/trichlor)
I will try that test and all tests tomorrow.
the free chlorine - this was hard I could barely see the pink and it disappeared after 1 drop so .5? but then adding the CC reagent it also cleared up after 1 drop.
ph is 7.2
I did the regular chlorine test and it didn't even change color
I tried the CYA test and I think I got 75? keep in mind I just emptied half the pool water so it had to be really high (4 years of dichlor/trichlor)
I will try that test and all tests tomorrow.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,757
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Follow these instructions for CYA:
www.troublefreepool.com
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com