I have a hayward heatpro hp3100 5t. Just installed. My concern is it doesnt kick off until the rpm on pump goes to about 750. It does kick off if I turn off pump completely. I get e03 code for low flow. My previous unit would shut down anything under 2500 rpm. Does anyone have experience with this? Seems like EO3 code should come before its as low at 750 rpm
Hayward Heat Pro
- Thread starter Brian Jones
- Start date
- Jun 24, 2021
- 16,258
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
What pump make model do you have?
Can you post pics of your equipment pad?
I think the heater manufacturers are nuts. The have minimum flow requirements, but they use pressure switches, that no where near matches their flow requirements.
All heaters have a minimum required flow. You should run your pump for that minimum required flow.
This is what I and many others have done:
www.troublefreepool.com
As added protection, I installed a flow meter on the outlet of the heater so I could adjust the Harwill flow switch. I found the harwill, in my plumbing would "jitter" the heater on and off at 35 GPM, so I had to adjust it so it was solid "on" at 35GPM.
I learned the lesson the hard way. The lack of flow and improper chemistry destroyed my heater requiring me to replace. I now know better.
Without flow meter, You can check the temperature rise from the inlet to the outlet.
For a 336,000 btu/hr heater with 83% efficiency, the actual heat transferred to the water will be about 279,000 btu/hr.
279,000/(GPM x 60 x 8.34)
The formula for temperature rise from inlet to outlet is Y = 557/X.
X = 557/Y.
So, if you know the temperature rise, you can estimate the flow.
If the temperature rise is 10 degrees, the flow is about 55.7 gpm.
www.wolframalpha.com
Min for your unit is 30GPM. 16 degree rise would give you about 34GPM
Can you post pics of your equipment pad?
I think the heater manufacturers are nuts. The have minimum flow requirements, but they use pressure switches, that no where near matches their flow requirements.
All heaters have a minimum required flow. You should run your pump for that minimum required flow.
This is what I and many others have done:
Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
As added protection, I installed a flow meter on the outlet of the heater so I could adjust the Harwill flow switch. I found the harwill, in my plumbing would "jitter" the heater on and off at 35 GPM, so I had to adjust it so it was solid "on" at 35GPM.
I learned the lesson the hard way. The lack of flow and improper chemistry destroyed my heater requiring me to replace. I now know better.
Without flow meter, You can check the temperature rise from the inlet to the outlet.
For a 336,000 btu/hr heater with 83% efficiency, the actual heat transferred to the water will be about 279,000 btu/hr.
279,000/(GPM x 60 x 8.34)
The formula for temperature rise from inlet to outlet is Y = 557/X.
X = 557/Y.
So, if you know the temperature rise, you can estimate the flow.
If the temperature rise is 10 degrees, the flow is about 55.7 gpm.
plot Y = 557/X, y from 3 to 50 - Wolfram|Alpha
Wolfram|Alpha brings expert-level knowledge and capabilities to the broadest possible range of people—spanning all professions and education levels.
www.wolframalpha.com
Min for your unit is 30GPM. 16 degree rise would give you about 34GPM
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