Pentair Microbrite LED light slow failure or controller

BennyB1979

Bronze Supporter
Feb 11, 2020
56
North Carolina
Pool Size
26000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have three Pentair Microbrite LED lights connected to the Pentair light controller that has since been replaced by a newer model. Pool was installed in 2020.

In 2022 , I noticed on of the lights would flash, become discolored, and then go dim. The other two lights were operating just fine. If I flipped the circuit off and on it would correct itself for a bit then issues would start again, sometimes days later.

Fast forward to now, after having the problem for a while I tested my lights and none of them will turn on. The controller has a green light that turns on so the controller is on but the lights won’t turn on at all.

Could the issue have been the controller the entire time? When I purchased the controller I read some pretty poor reviews of it.

Seems unlikely all my lights would stop working at the same time although a single light was having issues. Could the controller cause a single light to have issues or more likely the lights are bad.

Guessing I can test the output at the control to see if power is making it to lights?

After looking the install diagrams it appears the controller can’t be to blame for individual lights not working. Looks like I need to look into the transformer.

Could the transformer have caused individual lights to malfunction? Now that none of them turn on I’m thinking the transformer is to blame.

After reading all the reviews I should have never let the builder use Pentair lights at all.

If I have to go replace this entire system, anyone have recommendations of lights that can use the Pentair microbrite niche’s?

thoughts?
 
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Do you have the Pentair Color Synch controller?


Use a multimeter and check for 120V AC voltage output from the controller, 120V AC voltage into your transformer(s), and 12V-14V out from the transformers. If you have 12-14V out from the transformer then the light is bad.

You have many choices of 1.5” nicheless lights, some that mimic Pentair color controls. Jandy Watercolors and CMP Brilliant Wonders have a P-series that have Penatir controls.

Lighting Basics - Further Reading
 
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Do you have the Pentair ColorCynch controller?


Use a multimeter and check for 120V AC voltage output from the controller, 120V AC voltage into your transformer(s), and 12V-14V out from the transformers. If you have 12-14V out from the transformer then the light is bad.

You have many choices of 1.5” nicheless lights, some that mimic Pentair color controls. Jandy Watercolors and CMP Brilliant Wonders have a P-series that have Penatir controls.

Lighting Basics - Further Reading
I have the older style Pentair controller.
 
Follow the voltage. If you have voltage at the light wires then the light is bad.
 
I’d say I found my problem. Ant infestation. Will likely need to replace the transformer and controller at this point. Fun fun. After some short research, it sounds like a traps and ant powder when installing new components will help with this. Took this picture after a few minutes. At first you couldn’t see the components of the transformer there were so many ants.
 

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Follow the voltage. If you have voltage at the light wires then the light is bad.
I have 120 volts at the transformer from the controller.

I have a new 300 watt transformer. Once I connect the transformer. Black (hot) to black on transformer and white to white, properly grounded I get no voltage at that point when testing the black wire. If I disconnect the white wires and keep the black wires connected I get 120 volts again.

Power wire connections are on the lower left compartment. At no point do I have any voltage at the output of the transformer.

Any thoughts?
 

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I have 120 volts at the transformer from the controller.

I have a new 300 watt transformer. Once I connect the transformer. Black (hot) to black on transformer and white to white, properly grounded I get no voltage at that point when testing the black wire. If I disconnect the white wires and keep the black wires connected I get 120 volts again.

Power wire connections are on the lower left compartment. At no point do I have any voltage at the output of the transformer.

Any thoughts?
Also, the transformer has an overload reset. There is no resistance when I push the button. Wonder if something is wrong with the overload connection as I lose voltage when I connect the white wire. I’m assuming if the overload circuit gets triggered then the button would have resistance when pushing.
 
Transformer output is the blue and white wires on the right side,

Did you test that?