Hello. I’m new to the forum and looking forward to getting some honest advice. I have had a 25,000 litre above ground pool since 2020. But it has been a struggle with me breaking heaters. The first heater went after two years (heat exchanger) and they warrantied the heater and then installed a new one which lasted one season (combustion issue) and then blew again. They warrantied another heater and this one blew in a year too (again combustion issue). Now I have a fourth heater going into my fifth season that has never been used yet. My water chemistry has been good and I test regularly. Salt levels are no higher than 3100, the PH is always in the normal range, chlorine is usually on the low side 1-2 ppm and I did struggle with phosphates creeping up because we back to a ravine. When it gets around 700 I use no phosphate and it clears up. My question is this, are these heaters breaking down because I have a salt pool? As I’m considering switching to chlorine and installing Clear Blue system as I can’t keep breaking these heaters. Can anyone help with some knowledge here. Thank you.
On my 4th Heater going into 5th season
- Thread starter Latch
- Start date
Welcome, heaters seem to die more frequently from acidic water getting to them and causing corrosion. Sometimes that’s from a puck feeder back flowing into it, (pr leaving pucks to dissolve in a skimmer). What salt system do you have now and how are you testing the water? What heater model is being discussed?
If the “clear blue” system you mentioned is a mineral system then you’de be best advised to not waste your money on it.
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks. I appreciate the advice. I have a Pentair master temp 125 and a Pentair intellichlor SWG. I never put pucks in the skimmer and do have a back flow valve before the chlorinator and get my water tested at the same store since day one. They use the pucks that spin in that machine to get the water chemistry. I’m lost and don’t want to ruin another heater. I had a thought, I don’t have a diverter so when I shock my pool the water with higher chlorine content does run through my heater. Instead of me diverting it until the chlorine levels off.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
Show us pictures of your equipment pad and heater installation.
What model heater are we discussing?
Do you run your heater in cold weather or the winter?
You have a spa? Indoor or outdoor pool?
What test kit do you use to manage your water chemistry?
Show us pictures of your equipment pad and heater installation.
What model heater are we discussing?
Do you run your heater in cold weather or the winter?
You have a spa? Indoor or outdoor pool?
What test kit do you use to manage your water chemistry?
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,880
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Bad water chemistry can kill the heat exchanger - but it has to be extreme to do it so fast! The usual suspect in those cases is either really bad pH, or extremely high Calcium Hardness.
Combustion issues are not due to the water, but they may be due to extreme temperature differences in use, among several other things.
Having a salt pool will have no effect, and is not the reason.
We need to know a lot more about the specific heater, and how you use it. Answering the questions asked by @ajw22 would be an excellent start.
So the score so far is 1 due to heat exchanger, 2 due to combustion issues, correct? Did service give any clue as to what the combustion issues were? Corrosion? Failed parts?
Combustion issues are not due to the water, but they may be due to extreme temperature differences in use, among several other things.
Having a salt pool will have no effect, and is not the reason.
We need to know a lot more about the specific heater, and how you use it. Answering the questions asked by @ajw22 would be an excellent start.
So the score so far is 1 due to heat exchanger, 2 due to combustion issues, correct? Did service give any clue as to what the combustion issues were? Corrosion? Failed parts?
Here is my set up. The pump is a 1hp and runs approx 14-16 hours a day on a timer. The system comes in at 7am and the heater will kick in if needed. Usually as I’m in canada and nights are cooler. I do not have a sacrificial anode, which I hear could help? It is an above ground 25,000 litre pool.
The last two pictures are fom the most recent failure. I was told it was a combustion issue. As you can see the white thing pops off because the heater makes a loud noise and then stops working. The heater then says an error code for the ignition.
It’s a Pentair 1hp pump runnning 50 feet away from the pool at 14-16 hours a day.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What BTU is your MasterTemp heater?
Show me the gas line to the heater and the gas meter and data plates at your house.
A MasterTemp heater should last 10+ years. I have a 10 year old one.
This is the air intake for your blower. A combustion problem is usually an installation problem. Often with the gas line or gas pressures.
I don't know what you are trying to show me in this picture...
Please figure out how to post larger pictures that we can zoom in on to see details. If we are going to help you understand your problem through these screens we need to be able to see details.
www.troublefreepool.com
Show me the gas line to the heater and the gas meter and data plates at your house.
A MasterTemp heater should last 10+ years. I have a 10 year old one.
This is the air intake for your blower. A combustion problem is usually an installation problem. Often with the gas line or gas pressures.
I don't know what you are trying to show me in this picture...
Please figure out how to post larger pictures that we can zoom in on to see details. If we are going to help you understand your problem through these screens we need to be able to see details.
Picture Posting and Resizing - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
Hi. Thank you for your response. I tried to upload higher res but it doesn’t let me go higher than 1MB. I’ll try to do better. Those last two pics are from the last failure. In the one picture you can see some rust staining on the drum and a broken seal. And the first picture you can see the blower intake blows off. Was just showing that. The gas line coming in is a 1” line, picture attached. The heater is a 125, so a 125,000 BTU. Professionally installed by a recommended installer of Pentair. Not sure what else to say. I’ve gone through 3 in 4 years.What BTU is your MasterTemp heater?
Show me the gas line to the heater and the gas meter and data plates at your house.
A MasterTemp heater should last 10+ years. I have a 10 year old one.
This is the air intake for your blower. A combustion problem is usually an installation problem. Often with the gas line or gas pressures.
I don't know what you are trying to show me in this picture...
Please figure out how to post larger pictures that we can zoom in on to see details. If we are going to help you understand your problem through these screens we need to be able to see details.
Picture Posting and Resizing - Further Reading
Last edited:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The TFP server should take up to 5MB.
The rust area looks minor for a heater.
Can you highlight and point out the broken seal?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Step back and give me a wider view of the heater location. It looks like it is in a corner.
Has anyone checked the gas pressures using a manometer?
Has anyone checked the gas pressures using a manometer?
