18 x 33 x 56" Semi-In Ground NJ

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Plumbing breakdown, may be an extra fitting here and there not accounted for. I know allot of the stuff I'm posting on this thread is a bit redundant but I want to put as much on here to hopefully help someone else out in the future! 😁😁😁

Pool Plumbing, ALL 2” SCH-40 PVC or CVPC
INYO = INYOpools.com
PW = Pool Warehouse
LOWES= Lowes Deptford/Mantua found online in stock


Pool with 2 returns, 2 skimmers, 1 water feature, pump and filter assembly

-Total with double union ball valves excluding tax and shipping = $906.03

Total with single union ball valves excluding tax and shipping = $685.93

  • (3) – 3-Way Valves $133.80 / $66.90 INYO
    • CMP Pool and Spa 3-Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2-1/2" Outside, 25913-204-000
  • (2) –2-Way Valves $129.02 / $64.51ea INYO
    • CMP 2 Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2.5" Outside - 25912-204-000
  • (5) – Union Ball Valves
    • Double Union $290.00 / $58.00 each PW
      • Astral 6622 True Union Ball Valve, 2 In. Socket, 2-Way, PVC
      • Fully removable and rebuildable
OR
  • (5) - Single Union $69.90 / $13.98 each LOWES
    • RELIABILT 2-in PVC Single union Sch 40 Ball Valve Item #209668
      • $220.10 cheaper than double union valves but not rebuildable
  • (2) – Unions
    • Slip-Slip Union $44.44 / $22.22 each LOWES
  • (2) – Tee’s
    • Slip Tee $9.90 / $4.95 each LOWES
  • (21) - 90⁰ elbow
    • Slip 90˚ elbow $96.18 / $4.58 each LOWES
    • Charlotte Pipe 2-in 90-Degree Schedule 40 PVC pool sweep Elbow Item #23910
  • (9) – Couplers
    • Slip coupler $19.62 / $2.18 each LOWES
  • (4) - Reducing Male Adapter
    • 1-1/2” MPT – to – 2” slip reducer $20.88 / $5.22 each LOWES
    • Charlotte Pipe 2-in x 1-1/2-in Schedule 40 PVC Reducing Male Adapter Item #137434
  • (20) – 10’ sch40 PVC pipe
    • $273.60 $13.68 each LOWES
    • Charlotte Pipe 2-in x 10-ft 280 Psi Schedule 40 PVC Pipe Item #23832
  • (1) - CPVC Orange Lava Hot Cut-In Cement (16 oz.) $20 each LOWES or Home Depot
Heater Bypass Plumbing

Total cost for heater bypass excluding tax and shipping = $234.14
  • ALL 2” PIPE AND FITTINGS
  • (2) – 2-Way Valves $129.02 / $64.51ea INYO
  • CMP 2 Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2.5" Outside - 25912-204-000
  • (1) – Check Valve $50.78 INYO
  • CMP Check Valve, 2" Inside 2-1/2" Outside, 1/2 lb. Spring - 25830-814-000
  • (2) – Tee’s
  • Slip Tee $9.90 / $4.95 each LOWES
  • (2) Unions
  • Slip-Slip Union $44.44 / $22.22 each LOWES
 
Brian.O1484 said:
RELIABILT 2-in PVC Single union Sch 40 Ball Valve Item #209668
  • $220.10 cheaper than double union valves but not rebuildable
Click to expand...
Everyone's thoughts are different here, and nobody is wrong because you don't have to live with my way, and vice versa.

But the plumbing/equipment is the backbone of the trouble free operation. It's not exciting like fancy lounge chairs or pretty decking, so it's usually where folks skimp.

The CMP valves are a rounding error in the grand scheme of things. Put in 3/4 of an inch less deck instead and nobody will ever know. 😁
 
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Newdude said:
But the plumbing/equipment is the backbone of the trouble free operation. It's not exciting like fancy lounge chairs or pretty decking, so it's usually where folks skimp.
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Speak for yourself I think the whole planning of this, and the mechanics is more exciting than a fancy chair! 😂😂😂😂. I'm sure I may think differently of that once we break ground but we'll see!
 
Brian.O1484 said:
Speak for yourself I think the whole planning of this, and the mechanics is more exciting than a fancy chair!
Click to expand...
I was more referring to the spouse / CFO who ultimately needs to approve the budget.

I assure you I was fangirl-ing over it while she did similar at the patio furniture store. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Brian.O1484 said:
  • RELIABILT 2-in PVC Single union Sch 40 Ball Valve Item #209668
    • $220.10 cheaper than double union valves but not rebuildable
Click to expand...


2" rebuildable, union, ball valves. $40.

I have 1.5" ones on my pool. I have been extremely happy with them.

And, if for some reason you think you might go this route in the future, the stems are actuator ready - just slip the handles off and use the molded in actuator mounting points.
 
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Another step completed the last few days, tree was taken down, and some site cleanup, took up all the pavers that the smoker was on, and moved the smoker....by myself, need to make some favor calls to get it on the concrete pad 😂😮‍💨. Shot the yard with a transit to figure out where the top rail would be, and we decided that we want the 24" of excavation to be from grade at the retaining wall. If we go with the grade at the fence line then the top rail will be 25" higher than the patio wall, kinda defeating the point (to us at least) of burying the pool. The con to this is that the rear of the yard is 12" higher at the fence than it is at the patio retaining wall so plans will be to build a 8-12" retaining wall at the back about 24" from the pool, there is about 8 feet from the fence line to where the pool is going to be and about 9' front the pool to the tree. Granted if we just backfill to grade will it be an issue structurally? I highly doubt it, but Wilbar says 24" to stay within warranty specs.

Yard 5.jpg
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Yard 6.jpg
Bottom string line is level with grade at the back
Yard 7.jpg
 
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Brian.O1484 said:
Granted if we just backfill to grade will it be an issue structurally? I highly doubt it, but Wilbar says 24" to stay within warranty specs.
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Im with you. Pretty much every engineering rating ever is watered down to cover one extreme situation that will never happen.

But if similar happened and you needed the warrany coverage, you'd be up a creek.

I really really wouldn't want to be in or even near the pool if the wall gave way either.
 

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Newdude said:
Im with you. Pretty much every engineering rating ever is watered down to cover one extreme situation that will never happen.

But if similar happened and you needed the wattany coverage, you'd be up a creek.

I really really wouldn't want to be in or even near the pool if the wall gave way either.
Click to expand...
Exactly, highly doubtful but as I’ve stated before with my luck I’d be the one it happens to 😂. The pressure treated wall at the patio is holding back 20” of grade and I built that over 8 years ago when I did the patio. I would do something similar for the back but a quarter of the size. I don’t need a fancy block wall, especially since you won’t even see it when the pool is up. But I think it’s worth doing that for esthetics. The designer/wife agrees. She’s more that than the CFO 😂😂😂
 
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If you mean burying deeper than the recommended depth- one issue is that when you drain the pool for winter you risk the water inadvertently getting too low. You never want the water in the pool to be lower than the surrounding ground level or close to it really.
A metal pool wall is nothing like a retaining wall.
Ask me how I know…
 
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Welp in the meantime the plans were submitted and approved by the zoning office in late February, still waiting on the construction office which is allowed 20 days 😒but I'm hoping they are a bit quicker than that. Zoning literally approved the day I submitted. Everything has been ordered that isn't from a brick and mortar store and the remining is quoted out ready to be picked up whenever. Took the past few days to clean the piles of 💩 out of the garage and built the pallet racking I bought off marketplace a year ago lol. Having a gutter guy come out to give me a quote too. Gotta love the projects!
 

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Well the township is still taking their time with construction approval 😬. In the meantime all of my equipment came in and I decided to do a rough fit on my 3x6 “pad” marked out in the garage so I have an idea of what I want do outside. Pouring the equipment pad this week pending weather. I’m going to put anchors in the corners for 4x4s so I can build a house over it. Will be well ventilated and have a hinged roof and side access. I am pretty happy with it and think any servicing will be quick work when it needs to be done.

Heater bypass is in place and both intake and discharge have 3-ways that I can open for any flushing or vacuuming
 

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Brian.O1484 said:
Heater bypass is in place and both intake and discharge
Click to expand...
The valves after the SWG ? The SWG is supposed to be the last thing on the line.

Brian.O1484 said:
discharge have 3-ways that I can open for any flushing or vacuuming
Click to expand...
Put the discharge 3 way between the pump and filter. Then you can vac to waste like the silty crud that blows in over winter. Fine stuff will make it through the pre filter.
 
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Well the good news is everything was approved, the shocker for me was the $1,400 in permit fees I wasn't expecting For building, electrical, and plumbing permits. Mind you I’m also putting a sub panel in the garage during this project. Total for everything (at least what I put on the permit) was $25,000. Verified with the construction official and the fees are accurate. As if they don’t take enough of my money already 😂

@dleonard1122 you remember what you paid for permits on your pool? I know you said you were in the same area as me just different town. Not that anything can be done about it but I saw that amount and just sighed lol. I was expecting $600-800 for permit fees from what I read on the Township codes/fee documentation.
 
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Progress on the project! Excavation happening next week and pool installation the week after. Due to the timeframe for the permits I’m gonna be doing the project a little backwards to work with the install date. Pool installation, bonding, plumbing, then electrical. Poured the pad for the equipment enclosure earlier last week and made the frame work up today. Going to have a hinged roof and the sides are gonna be finished with 1x4 or 5/4 board with adequate space for airflow in addition to the front being a double door.

I was going to mount the timer and SWCG on the left side, outside but I got myself thinking of mounting on the inside for a cleaner look (where the grey square is). I wanted to make it as compact as possible and I’m happy with the result thus far!IMG_6617.jpegIMG_6613.jpegIMG_6614.jpeg
 
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Very nice!
Do you have a submersible pump/cover pump you could use to circulate the water with & help you add liquid chlorine while you wait for your equipment to be hooked up?
If not thats ok - a brush will do but a pump sure makes it easier.
 
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