The brain is the same and the only difference is the larger capacity cell. I will know the time line by the end of the day and I will post up.
Spoke to a manager there yesterday.
What size SWCG
- Thread starter Jsf721
- Start date
Spoke to a manager there yesterday.
There's a high turnover of customers and you only need one slot to become available. With time of the essence, I'd call weekly and simply ask if they can take on a new weekly maintenance customer. It's not a lie, it's just ending alot sooner than they'd like.
Had a company come look at my pool today. They popped the diagonal corners of the cover took a look, looked at my equipment and left. I am waiting for a call Monday with if they will take me as a customer and how much it cost. Their program is 1X per week visit. Backwash filter if necessary, test and rebalance water (weekly basic chemicals included- no credit for pools with SWG), brush pool, vacuum pool and leave any recommended services for the following week.
My only real concern is the cya levels. What’s the highest CYA the TFP method allows for CYA and a saltwater generator
Opened the pool this weekend and started getting water balanced. Thanks to this place the opening water conditions were excellent. FC opened at 9. Did this test 2x just to be sure and still took water sample to Leslie’s who came back with 11. I’m super impressed at how it held the FC. I did use super shock when I closed.
Sadly my CA tested at about 90 for me and 101 in Leslie’s.
Ph and Alkalinity needed a slight boost. They used 16 lbs of baking soda Saturday.
I’m in the process of pumping out about 10” of water so I can refill 10” by 5am. I can fill about 1” per hour. Hoping that gets my CYA to less than 90. Hours
Opened the pool this weekend and started getting water balanced. Thanks to this place the opening water conditions were excellent. FC opened at 9. Did this test 2x just to be sure and still took water sample to Leslie’s who came back with 11. I’m super impressed at how it held the FC. I did use super shock when I closed.
Sadly my CA tested at about 90 for me and 101 in Leslie’s.
Ph and Alkalinity needed a slight boost. They used 16 lbs of baking soda Saturday.
I’m in the process of pumping out about 10” of water so I can refill 10” by 5am. I can fill about 1” per hour. Hoping that gets my CYA to less than 90. Hours
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I don't see one question above. 
Lets imagine you have a certified watch. If i hand you another watch that agrees with it, it means nothing as *you* certified *them*. If I hand you a watch with a different time than yours, all it does is make you question your certified watch.
No good comes from second opinions here.
*Providing you're still going SWG. Yes you'll need to run more FC but it'll hold very well with lower UV demand right now.
Just remember to test PH at 9 or less FC, before you add the next dose of chlorine.
No brand/form of chlorine holds better over the winter than the next. Once the FC in the pool is X, it's all the same.
Never waste your time again.
Lets imagine you have a certified watch. If i hand you another watch that agrees with it, it means nothing as *you* certified *them*. If I hand you a watch with a different time than yours, all it does is make you question your certified watch.
No good comes from second opinions here.
As long as you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and have no visible traces of algae anywhere at all (even inside the skimmer or the stairs trim) then the 90 CYA is fine with the wet spring on its way. As they say 'April showers lower CYA flowers'.
*Providing you're still going SWG. Yes you'll need to run more FC but it'll hold very well with lower UV demand right now.
Just remember to test PH at 9 or less FC, before you add the next dose of chlorine.
Yes SWG ordered. Salt ordered. Hoping to get it installed next Sunday. Provided it shows up.I don't see one question above.
No brand/form of chlorine holds better over the winter than the next. Once the FC in the pool is X, it's all the same.
Never waste your time again.
Lets imagine you have a certified watch. If i hand you another watch that agrees with it, it means nothing as *you* certified *them*. If I hand you a watch with a different time than yours, all it does is make you question your certified watch.
No good comes from second opinions here.
As long as you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and have no visible traces of algae anywhere at all (even inside the skimmer or the stairs trim) then the 90 CYA is fine with the wet spring on its way. As they say 'April showers lower CYA flowers'.
*Providing you're still going SWG. Yes you'll need to run more FC but it'll hold very well with lower UV demand right now.
View attachment 635181
Just remember to test PH at 9 or less FC, before you add the next dose of chlorine.
Lowering the CYA as I’d like to lower the free chlorine required to maintain the pool using the TFP pool method.
I just could not believe the pool held the FC all winter. I guess covered and cold the demand was very low but I expected more degradation if the chloride over time even without load. The pool had zero algae visible upon opening.
I’m super excited to never have to battle high CYA again. I’ll fall off my chair if I need to add some in the future.
70 to 90 is insignificant here, especially in the early/late season. In the hot climates they target 90 at times. It takes more of an initial dose to get to the higher target (also insignificant) but the higher CYA mostly protects/washes the higher FC burnoff.
The only kick in the pants is if you have to slam. You'll feel that higher target every couple of hours.
Or if you lower it to 70, we have a wet spring with 18 inches of rain, and you have add 15 to 20 back. Lol.
If you wait long enough to close, and open before it warms up too much, you're pretty much golden.
Awesome !!! But Overnight Chlorine Loss Test anyway at your earliest convenience.
Thanks for all the detailed responses. Much appreciated. I still have a lot to learn.
Have a good night.
Thanks again
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,879
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Guaranteed to fall off your chair. cYA degrades 5-10 a month in summer…
We go back so it's ain't no thing.
But even if we didn't, me, poolstored and a boatload of others are on a mission to save every one else from being misled and fleeced like we were. So it still wouldn't be a thing.
lol I don’t even own CYA /Stabilizer ! I guess I will use a few tabs if needed or buy stabilizer.
All the same - I really appreciate you and the others on this forum as well the on going opportunity to get the NO BS pointed advice I need in an extremely easy for me to understand format. Love the charts for FC/CYA especially. That's how I found this place during a mustard algae pool episode and since clearing that, I have not faltered since getting on the TFP method and following the suggested levels on the chartWe go back so it's ain't no thing.
But even if we didn't, me, poolstored and a boatload of others are on a mission to save every one else from being misled and fleeced like we were. So it still wouldn't be a thing.
Refilled and clear. I dropped to the top of the light and refilled. Could not test this morning in the dark.
but I did rebalance the other chemicals. 
I have a 20x40 Pool and I am not toally sure of gallonage as the sides are Sloped. Could be 24,000 on the low side or 34,500 on the high side.
What the Salt/lbs per gallon needed for a conversion from Chlorine?
what do I need to know to buy the right type of salt?
How is it best to get the salt mixed into the pool ?
Thanks
What the Salt/lbs per gallon needed for a conversion from Chlorine?
what do I need to know to buy the right type of salt?
How is it best to get the salt mixed into the pool ?
Thanks
Get This one from Lowes / HD. I didn't bother shopping around when I saw $9 at Lowes. Some years the 'pool salt' is cheaper and the most I've ever paid for either was $13 in a pinch.
Get a k1766 reading for the current salt level. Add 75% of the remainder to target for the lower gallon possibly. Dump it all right into the shallow end and brush side to side every half hour. It's easier to brush if you keep it in the shallow end. It'll be gone in an hour or so.
Make sure the cell is off before and mix for 24 hours. You'll get a better idea about your volume when you see how much the salt went up. Adjust again if necessary, aiming a bit lower just in case.
You can start now before the cell goes in, it doesn't matter when.
Get a k1766 reading for the current salt level. Add 75% of the remainder to target for the lower gallon possibly. Dump it all right into the shallow end and brush side to side every half hour. It's easier to brush if you keep it in the shallow end. It'll be gone in an hour or so.
Make sure the cell is off before and mix for 24 hours. You'll get a better idea about your volume when you see how much the salt went up. Adjust again if necessary, aiming a bit lower just in case.
You can start now before the cell goes in, it doesn't matter when.
Thanks, I can get a HD easily. I have the salt kit form TFtestkits. Nate has always done right by me. I am assuming this kit is acceptable.
Sweet. The cell readout, digital tester or test strips aren't as accurate. Many a member has added/lowered salt per those 3 and had to undo it per the K-1766.
Just looked it up and it's the same $9. Water softener salt is by the hot water heaters. Pool salt is in the pool aisle outside with the plants. Never use chlorox salt because it has stained members with iron a bunch. I won't use Mortons either because a year or two ago they had batches that probably weren't even salt. We never found out what it was.
I use that diamond crystal one, not yellow or green, but light blue (always check for 100% pure or no additives / no stain blocking). Or the non name brand 'pool salt' in the pool aisle. It's kinda comically generic. Pool salt may even be the name.
The RJ recommended range is 3k to 4k. Split the difference for the wiggle room either way.
reggiehammond
Gold Supporter
- Oct 4, 2020
- 2,253
- Pool Size
- 30000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
NO! Don't do this as you're just falling for the pool industry BS of chlorine being a bad thing!
High CYA protects your chlorine better, allowing your SWCG to work less. Your SWCG will last longer, costing you less money.
When you attempt to run on the low end of SWCG CYA levels, you risk daytime losses increasing (as heat and day length increase). It's easy with a SWCG to get lazy and you end up potentially needing to SLAM.
My pool runs best with clean water, high CYA and my SWCG working less to maintain FC at 10-14. My kids swim without goggles, visitors comment about how good the water feels... it's all benefits.
I have a Vinyl Pool and will be doing the conversion next weekend provided the SWG shows Friday
I ordered the salt and will pick up tomorrow. Is there any hard in putting in a good amount a week early? I know it takes time to dissolve. I do not live at this house weekdays. Will it harm the liner sitting on the bottom or do i need to brush it until is dissolves or let it sit and do its thing ?
What's a good starting point for salt in a 24,500 gallon pool. Still not sure of gallonage on pool so I will assume less so as not to overshoot with salt.
I ordered the salt and will pick up tomorrow. Is there any hard in putting in a good amount a week early? I know it takes time to dissolve. I do not live at this house weekdays. Will it harm the liner sitting on the bottom or do i need to brush it until is dissolves or let it sit and do its thing ?
What's a good starting point for salt in a 24,500 gallon pool. Still not sure of gallonage on pool so I will assume less so as not to overshoot with salt.