We have a 20 x 40 inground cement pool (possibly built in the 1970s) that is leaking. There aren't a lot of pool companies in Michigan--but we got an estimate from one company. $6k for new waterline pool tile. Around $23k for paint removal and new coat of marcite. And about $20k to core drill 3 new return lines in pool side and 3 jets into hot tub, run new plumbing lines, and connect to existing lines outside of equipment room. Total cost around $50,000. Almost makes us want to get rid of the pool. Do these costs seem reasonable? Are they worth it?
Inground Cement Pool Leaking and Renovation Estimate
- Thread starter indoorpoolmichigan
- Start date
I,
I guess my first question is... Where is the leak and how do you know???
Most gunite pools do not leak anywhere in the shell..
Things that do leak..
Cracks around the skimmer
The back of the light fixture
Once in a while the PVC plumbing, but not often.
How much does the pool leak each day?
It could leak a lot of water for $50K.
Show us a few pics of your equipment pad and maybe we can come up with some tests.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I guess my first question is... Where is the leak and how do you know???
Most gunite pools do not leak anywhere in the shell..
Things that do leak..
Cracks around the skimmer
The back of the light fixture
Once in a while the PVC plumbing, but not often.
How much does the pool leak each day?
It could leak a lot of water for $50K.
Show us a few pics of your equipment pad and maybe we can come up with some tests.
Thanks,
Jim R.
MAPR-Austin
In The Industry
That is a really nice pool and pool room/area. If it get's 1/10th the use it looks like it does then I would have a hard time getting rid of it.
50k for that scope of work seems reasonable. I don't know that the whole scope is needed, it depends on what you want:
-The waterline tile looks fine, is any of it falling off?
-I don't see any big cracks in your pictures, is the shell in decent shape aside from the peeling paint?
-Have you had a professional leak location done to see exactly where the leaks are? I have seen it run 3-5k to do a full leak location, dig up and repair the pipe that is leaking, backfill and repour concrete.
A dye kit and some time in the water would cost you only a few dollars and you might find that the leak can be fixed with a few more dollars of pool putty.
50k for that scope of work seems reasonable. I don't know that the whole scope is needed, it depends on what you want:
-The waterline tile looks fine, is any of it falling off?
-I don't see any big cracks in your pictures, is the shell in decent shape aside from the peeling paint?
-Have you had a professional leak location done to see exactly where the leaks are? I have seen it run 3-5k to do a full leak location, dig up and repair the pipe that is leaking, backfill and repour concrete.
A dye kit and some time in the water would cost you only a few dollars and you might find that the leak can be fixed with a few more dollars of pool putty.
Hi! Thanks for your responses. We've attached photos of the pool equipment (new pump installed 12/2024 and new sand filter installed 4/2023) and one photo of cracked tile. None of the tile is falling off, but a few tiles are cracked (see photo).
We believe the pool is leaking because we have to refill it once a week, and we used to only have to top it off once every few months. The pool loses about a 1/4" of water each day. We put tape at the waterline and ran the pump for 24 hours straight--and lost around 1/4". Then, we put tape at waterline again and left pump off for 24 hours. Again, we lost around 1/4" of water. One pool company had a diver attempt to pressure test pool main drain and hydro stat. The diver couldn't locate any leaks. The new pool company suspects leak may be happening around skimmer.
When we bought the house, the hot tub water was constantly draining out. A company performed a full leak detection. They determined four of the hot tub jet lines were leaking and advised us to plug up the jets. Now the hot tub retains water--but there's only one working jet. One pool repair person thought maybe termites were eating through the pvc pipes. We hired an exterminator--and there's no signs of termites.
Again -- thanks for your input. Much appreciated!
We believe the pool is leaking because we have to refill it once a week, and we used to only have to top it off once every few months. The pool loses about a 1/4" of water each day. We put tape at the waterline and ran the pump for 24 hours straight--and lost around 1/4". Then, we put tape at waterline again and left pump off for 24 hours. Again, we lost around 1/4" of water. One pool company had a diver attempt to pressure test pool main drain and hydro stat. The diver couldn't locate any leaks. The new pool company suspects leak may be happening around skimmer.
When we bought the house, the hot tub water was constantly draining out. A company performed a full leak detection. They determined four of the hot tub jet lines were leaking and advised us to plug up the jets. Now the hot tub retains water--but there's only one working jet. One pool repair person thought maybe termites were eating through the pvc pipes. We hired an exterminator--and there's no signs of termites.
Again -- thanks for your input. Much appreciated!
Attachments
Termites eating plastic? They eat cellulose, not hydrocarbons. An interesting conjecture.
I,
Thanks for the pics...
Since the leak is the same with, and without, the pump running, then most likely it is not in the plumbing under pressure.
My pull it out of my rear guess is that 80% of skimmer leaks are around where the tile, in the mouth of the skimmer, meets up against the plastic skimmer.. A lot of these problems can be solved with 'pool putty'. I have a rent house pool that leaks there.. The putty lasts two or three years and then I have to do it again. The putty can be put on under water, but seems to work best when the pool is drained down below the skimmer..
In fact, one of the best way to find a leak, is to just let the pool leak and see where the water level stops.. If it drains down to just below the mouth of the skimmer, then that is most likely where you will find the leak..
You can also just not use the spa for a week or so and shut off the Spa drain and Spa returns using the valve in your equipment room.. Then see if the level in the Spa drains down more or less than the Pool..
I'd try a lot of things myself, before I paid $50K to find a 1/4" per week leak...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Thanks for the pics...
Since the leak is the same with, and without, the pump running, then most likely it is not in the plumbing under pressure.
My pull it out of my rear guess is that 80% of skimmer leaks are around where the tile, in the mouth of the skimmer, meets up against the plastic skimmer.. A lot of these problems can be solved with 'pool putty'. I have a rent house pool that leaks there.. The putty lasts two or three years and then I have to do it again. The putty can be put on under water, but seems to work best when the pool is drained down below the skimmer..
In fact, one of the best way to find a leak, is to just let the pool leak and see where the water level stops.. If it drains down to just below the mouth of the skimmer, then that is most likely where you will find the leak..
You can also just not use the spa for a week or so and shut off the Spa drain and Spa returns using the valve in your equipment room.. Then see if the level in the Spa drains down more or less than the Pool..
I'd try a lot of things myself, before I paid $50K to find a 1/4" per week leak...
Thanks,
Jim R.
Older flex pvc had wood fibers in it, and termites loved the stuff.
Very helpful suggestions! Thank you so much!I,
Thanks for the pics...
Since the leak is the same with, and without, the pump running, then most likely it is not in the plumbing under pressure.
My pull it out of my rear guess is that 80% of skimmer leaks are around where the tile, in the mouth of the skimmer, meets up against the plastic skimmer.. A lot of these problems can be solved with 'pool putty'. I have a rent house pool that leaks there.. The putty lasts two or three years and then I have to do it again. The putty can be put on under water, but seems to work best when the pool is drained down below the skimmer..
In fact, one of the best way to find a leak, is to just let the pool leak and see where the water level stops.. If it drains down to just below the mouth of the skimmer, then that is most likely where you will find the leak..
You can also just not use the spa for a week or so and shut off the Spa drain and Spa returns using the valve in your equipment room.. Then see if the level in the Spa drains down more or less than the Pool..
I'd try a lot of things myself, before I paid $50K to find a 1/4" per week leak...
Thanks,
Jim R.
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A. Being a "soft" flexible material, spa flex can be easily damaged if you're not careful. So watch out where you're digging! Another limitation is that rodents or insects (including termites) can sense the water flowing in the pipe, and they will "chew" up the pipe in order to get to the moisture inside. It's also not recommended to bury this pipe, especially in areas infested by termites. Damages from pests (including termites), accidents, and acts of nature, void any warranties, so do take precaution.
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sktn77a
Gold Supporter
If the diagnoses are accurate then the budget seems in the ballpark. However, you need to get a much more confident assessment of the cause of the leaks (pressure testing plumbing, dye testing of the skimmer, main drain, etc) before you commit to ponying up 50 large!!!
Thank you for all the advice. Very helpful! The main drain was leaking. That has been sealed off. Jets on floor of pool have also been sealed off and new return jets have been added to pool wall. Pool is now drained. Old plaster will be removed and new plaster coating will be added. We're switching back to city water. We would also like to switch from bromine back to chlorine. Do we need to replace the brominator (only 1 to 2 yrs. old) with a new chlorinator?
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Don't know much about the pool as your signature is blank but while things are dug up and coring new returns is happening you also may want to consider adding a pressure side port for a future pressure side vacuum. It'll need a separate pump but now would be the time to plumb it.