The clouds will not part...

Could I just use the pucks that I have on hand to drive the chlorine up to 10ppm on the crrappy test strips then pull the floaty thing that holds the tabs our of the pool completely and check and hour later to make sure I'm still at 10ppm? Would that be a best guess amateur way to proceed at least with proper intentions of doing the deal?
 
Could I just use the pucks that I have on hand to drive the chlorine up to 10ppm on the crrappy test strips then pull the floaty thing that holds the tabs our of the pool completely and check and hour later to make sure I'm still at 10ppm? Would that be a best guess amateur way to proceed at least with proper intentions of doing the deal?
I'm not sure what you are asking. Can you ask again in another way?
 
Could I just use the pucks that I have on hand to drive the chlorine up to 10ppm on the crrappy test strips then pull the floaty thing that holds the tabs our of the pool completely and check and hour later to make sure I'm still at 10ppm? Would that be a best guess amateur way to proceed at least with proper intentions of doing the deal?
No - it takes the pucks time to dissolve.
Like Days.
Use liquid chlorine.
 
No-name bleach with no strength listed is 3% or weaker. So it would add chlorine to your water, but you would need 3 or 4 bottles to equal one bottle of liquid chlorine.

Walmart, Menards, Rural King, and Meijer all carry liquid chlorine. Stock up at one of those places, not Big Lots.
 
No-name bleach with no strength listed is 3% or weaker. So it would add chlorine to your water, but you would need 3 or 4 bottles to equal one bottle of liquid chlorine.

Walmart, Menards, Rural King, and Meijer all carry liquid chlorine. Stock up at one of those places, not Big Lots.

No-name bleach with no strength listed is 3% or weaker. So it would add chlorine to your water, but you would need 3 or 4 bottles to equal one bottle of liquid chlorine.

Walmart, Menards, Rural King, and Meijer all carry liquid chlorine. Stock up at one of those places, not Big Lots.
Found a SWEET deal on the full strength at the farm store.
No-name bleach with no strength listed is 3% or weaker. So it would add chlorine to your water, but you would need 3 or 4 bottles to equal one bottle of liquid chlorine.

Walmart, Menards, Rural King, and Meijer all carry liquid chlorine. Stock up at one of those places, not Big Lots.
Found a SWEET deal at the farm store for the full strength. Next question: does ph always "creep up"? They only have a 2 gallon package deal
of "good" muriatic acid 31% where I'm headed. I don't trust the kleen-strip brand cause it doesn't say the percentage...
 

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Yes. I mean to lower it. That's my next question. Tell me if I understand correctly: mixing/aerating the water after adding acid brings the ph back up while leaving the TA down? Does aeration *always* raise ph or only to a point?
Like what if I aerated the heck out of the water as it sits now, without adding anything. Would that raise the ph?
 
At 120, I'd leave TA alone, just manage pH. Your TA will come down over time.

If you are going to obsess about it, here is a read for you...https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/lowering-ta-total-alkalinity-with-aeration-quickly.298101/
 
Get the full strength liquid chlorine- thats a good one
Yes, Aeration raises ph without increasing ta.
You’ll likely eventually use the 2 gallons of ma & it doesn’t really go bad.
 
Get the full strength liquid chlorine- thats a good one
Yes, Aeration raises ph without increasing ta.
You’ll likely eventually use the 2 gallons of ma & it doesn’t really go bad.
Pleased to report first test results with pro kit rolling in now...
 

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Get the full strength liquid chlorine- thats a good one
Yes, Aeration raises ph without increasing ta.
You’ll likely eventually use the 2 gallons of ma & it doesn’t really go bad.
So no ammonia on either test. Cl off the chart and ph 8.0?
 

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Doesn't matter, there are many different CYA mixing vials with different markings and instructions. It just needs to 50/50 mix.
 

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