New Construction- Katy Tx; 12000+/- Gal SWG

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nima katy

Well-known member
Feb 25, 2024
72
Katy, Tx
Pool Size
12000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
12K gal.
13.5w’x33’ Lx 3.5’-5.5’ water depth
6’x8’spa
SWG
Pump: Pentair Intelliflow 3 VSF
Filter: Pentair Clean&Clear 420
Intellicenter I5
Light: Pentair Microbrite color 100
SPA Heater: Pentair Mastertemp 400HD salt system
Coping: Travertine
Plaster: Pebble finish
Finally they started digging today! I will be posting pictures and I would appreciate your comments and feedback as this process seems to be moving forward really fast and finish(digging , stub up, gunite, etc.) in the next 3-4 dayBeiki Draw_001.jpg
 
Last edited:
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Good luck! It would be helpful to edit your 1st post to include your pool information along with the rendering.
 
.ben said:
Good luck! It would be helpful to edit your 1st post to include your pool information along with the rendering.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your feedback. I had pool info in my profile, I assumed that it should be enough but I add it here as well. It makes sense what you suggest.
 
nima katy said:
Thanks for your feedback. I had pool info in my profile, I assumed that it should be enough but I add it here as well. It makes sense what you suggest.
Click to expand...
Actually - Please Create Your Signature to help us understand what your current setup is and this will help responders to quickly see your equipment and pool details without having to keeping asking for the information.

See mine below my post as an example. Include info on pump, filter, type of SWCG, etc.
As a reminder, the SWCG should be rated 2x the pool volume, so the PB should be supplying a 30k or larger type of SWCG. With a SWCG, it is never bad to be too big.

Recognizing that you are early in the construction, provide photos as things progress and ask questions if there are concerns.
Suggest you order your test kt soon to have it on hand and you can practice with your tap water.
Test Kits Compared

If you have your plaster mfg and type selected, go to their website and look for the start up instructions once the plaster is put on and water is being added.
 
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nima katy said:
Finally they started digging today! I will be posting pictures and I would appreciate your comments and feedback as this process seems to be moving forward really fast and finish(digging , stub up, gunite, etc.) in the next 3-4 dayView attachment 584355
Click to expand...

HermanTX said:
Actually - Please Create Your Signature to help us understand what your current setup is and this will help responders to quickly see your equipment and pool details without having to keeping asking for the information.

See mine below my post as an example. Include info on pump, filter, type of SWCG, etc.
As a reminder, the SWCG should be rated 2x the pool volume, so the PB should be supplying a 30k or larger type of SWCG. With a SWCG, it is never bad to be too big.

Recognizing that you are early in the construction, provide photos as things progress and ask questions if there are concerns.
Suggest you order your test kt soon to have it on hand and you can practice with your tap water.
Test Kits Compared

If you have your plaster mfg and type selected, go to their website and look for the start up instructions once the plaster is put on and water is being added.
Click to expand...
Thanks Herman. I just added my signiture as you suggested. Thanks!.... What test kit do you suggest for this pool?
 

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nima katy said:
What test kit do you suggest for this pool?
Click to expand...
Test Kits Compared Either of these are good. The TF Pro with Salt is a better value and it includes a speed stirrer which is very helpful to have consistent tests. TF Test Kits runs a special every March for purchase of reagents to replenish the kit.
Some prefer to buy from Amazon so the Taylor K-2006 C is fine. Ensure you get the "C" version as it includes larger bottles of reagents. It will not include a speedstirrer which can be purchased separately. Also, you would need to purchase the K-1766 Salt test kit. So it takes 3 items to purchase vs the single TF Pro with Salt kit.
 
nima katy said:
12K gal.
13.5w’x33’ Lx 3.5’-5.5’ water depth
6’x8’spa
SWCG
Pump: Pentair Intelliflow 3 VSF
Filter: Pentair Clean&Clear 420
Intellicenter I5
Light: Pentair Microbrite color 100
SPA Heater: Pentair Mastertemp 400HD salt system
Coping: Travertine
Plaster: Pebble finish
Finally they started digging today! I will be posting pictures and I would appreciate your comments and feedback as this process seems to be moving forward really fast and finish(digging , stub up, gunite, etc.) in the next 3-4 dayView attachment 584355
Click to expand...

nima katy said:
12K gal.
13.5w’x33’ Lx 3.5’-5.5’ water depth
6’x8’spa
SWG
Pump: Pentair Intelliflow 3 VSF
Filter: Pentair Clean&Clear 420
Intellicenter I5
Light: Pentair Microbrite color 100
SPA Heater: Pentair Mastertemp 400HD salt system
Coping: Travertine
Plaster: Pebble finish
Finally they started digging today! I will be posting pictures and I would appreciate your comments and feedback as this process seems to be moving forward really fast and finish(digging , stub up, gunite, etc.) in the next 3-4 dayView attachment 584355
Click to expand...
 

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Plumbing
 

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The shell should be surface saturated dry continuously for 7 straight days.
How long that takes per watering cycles depends on the weather and how fast the evaporation takes place on the surface.
Your goal is to slow the curing of the shell by keeping it moist, that in turn keeps it cool, that in turn slows the chemical reaction of cement.
This process has a direct affect on the overall strength of the shell after 28 days.
Weather conditions (direct sunlight and humidity) are working against you.
This is a photo of a job in SOCAL during July.IMG_5813.png
 
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AQUA~HOLICS said:
On a separate note, I’m surprised that the steel engineering plans only require one #3 bar around the skimmer. Can you confirm that?View attachment 585404
Click to expand...
it is one at top and one close to bottom. I am aslo concerned about the reinforcements . Would you please take alook at other pictire and see if it makes sense to have the reinforcements on the back wall at top that far away? shouldnt we have more stirrups?
 
AQUA~HOLICS said:
The shell should be surface saturated dry continuously for 7 straight days.
How long that takes per watering cycles depends on the weather and how fast the evaporation takes place on the surface.
Your goal is to slow the curing of the shell by keeping it moist, that in turn keeps it cool, that in turn slows the chemical reaction of cement.
This process has a direct affect on the overall strength of the shell after 28 days.
Weather conditions (direct sunlight and humidity) are working against you.
This is a photo of a job in SOCAL during July.View attachment 585400
Click to expand...
good idea. thanks
 

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