I got the signature updated! Sorry that took so long. I knew virtually nothing
let me know if I missed anything important!
Post partial drain chemical help
- Thread starter five054life
- Start date
let me know if I missed anything important!thanks! Finally got the signature updated. Can’t promise it has everything needed but hopefully that helps. We do not have an IFCS. MY husband says we, “Have to run the pump so high so that we could keep the vacuum crawling around.” He likes it to crawl up the walls too. As a side note, when I was adding chemicals today, I found the return jets all over the pool. I noticed that the ones in the deep end are really bellowing out water and the ones in the shallow end are barely putting water out at all. Any idea what that’s all about?
Since I was testing the water incorrectly, the last several days (I did not realize I needed to take it from the middle of the pool, 14 inches deep, and after the pump had been running for 15 to 30 minutes). Now that I know that, I ran all of my tests:
CYA 70, pH 8.2, Cl 7.5, CC 0.5, CH 650, TA 130
(So not that far off from the original results)
I added liquid chlorine and muriatic acid using Pool Math tool.
Hose water:
PH 7.8, TA 120, and CH 350
I was not expecting such high TA or CH. So it draining my pool and replacing it with hose water serve any purpose? I was planning to do the drain tomorrow night and the fill on Saturday when I am home all day. Obviously it would lower my CH a bit and my CYA, but really won’t change my TA. And as other users have suggested in Phoenix CYA on higher end of normal may be fine. Any recommendations welcomed!
CYA 70, pH 8.2, Cl 7.5, CC 0.5, CH 650, TA 130
(So not that far off from the original results)
I added liquid chlorine and muriatic acid using Pool Math tool.
Hose water:
PH 7.8, TA 120, and CH 350
I was not expecting such high TA or CH. So it draining my pool and replacing it with hose water serve any purpose? I was planning to do the drain tomorrow night and the fill on Saturday when I am home all day. Obviously it would lower my CH a bit and my CYA, but really won’t change my TA. And as other users have suggested in Phoenix CYA on higher end of normal may be fine. Any recommendations welcomed!
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,541
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Good job on the signature!
Does the pool have automation? Post a picture of the equipment pad so we can see whqt else you may have.
Without pics of the equipment pad from a few different angles, it would be difficult to guess why the deep end jets are stronger than the shallow end.
Pool cleaner only needs to run at full speed maybe 4 hours per day - not 16 hours. You can run at a lower rpm for 12 out of those 16 hours. Maybe try higher speed for cleaner in two 2 hour chunks.
For my IFCS, I have two 2 hour schedules at 2900 rpm - 6am-8am and 4pm-6pm. The rest of the runtime is at 1200 rpm. Saves a bunch on electricity as well.
Does the pool have automation? Post a picture of the equipment pad so we can see whqt else you may have.
Without pics of the equipment pad from a few different angles, it would be difficult to guess why the deep end jets are stronger than the shallow end.
Pool cleaner only needs to run at full speed maybe 4 hours per day - not 16 hours. You can run at a lower rpm for 12 out of those 16 hours. Maybe try higher speed for cleaner in two 2 hour chunks.
For my IFCS, I have two 2 hour schedules at 2900 rpm - 6am-8am and 4pm-6pm. The rest of the runtime is at 1200 rpm. Saves a bunch on electricity as well.
Last edited:
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,541
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Enter all your results into PoolMath and click the save check mark.
You are already sharing your PoolMath logs to the forum, but there aren't any test results showing there.
Chances are you will evaporate your entire pool volume or maybe more over the course of a year. That would increase you pool CH by at least 350 based on your reported tap water CH. Many of us here in the desert southwest have water softeners andnhave them plumbed to our autofill.
TA is something you will have to work on a bit due to evaporation and using high TA tap water to make up the evporated water. Adding muriatic acid will lower the pH and also lower TA a bit. Once the pH rises naturally or thru aeration to 7.8-8.0, you dose muriatic acid again to lower the pH to 7.2-7.4. This cycle will be repeated time and again -eventually the TA will get down to the 60-70 range. The lower TA of 60-70 will help slow the pH rise.
You are already sharing your PoolMath logs to the forum, but there aren't any test results showing there.
Chances are you will evaporate your entire pool volume or maybe more over the course of a year. That would increase you pool CH by at least 350 based on your reported tap water CH. Many of us here in the desert southwest have water softeners andnhave them plumbed to our autofill.
TA is something you will have to work on a bit due to evaporation and using high TA tap water to make up the evporated water. Adding muriatic acid will lower the pH and also lower TA a bit. Once the pH rises naturally or thru aeration to 7.8-8.0, you dose muriatic acid again to lower the pH to 7.2-7.4. This cycle will be repeated time and again -eventually the TA will get down to the 60-70 range. The lower TA of 60-70 will help slow the pH rise.
Thanks! Hmmm what is Pool automation? I know that the pump we can set a timer on the box to control the runtimes. We do not control anything through an app.
I’m going to pass off the pump information to my husband. I believe peak energy hours in the valley are typically 4 to 7 PM where I live so I would probably avoid that window for the higher RPM.
As for the equipment pad, is that just the area that all of the pool equipment is in? If so, I can take pictures when I get home this evening!
My gosh, you are so knowledgeable! Thank you very much! I can get the results uploaded tonight after the kids go down.
Maybe we can put a water softener on our to purchase list for this year
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,541
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Your wisperflo pump should have a control head that allows setting numerous schedules and speeds.
Is that the timer you speak of or is there a separate timer (maybe mounted to the wall)?
Once we see pics of your equipment pad, we will have a better idea.
Yeah - have your husband pop on here and we can discuss a more energy efficient schedule that will still sufficiently clean the pool.
Yes - all the pool equipment, including pipes, valves, pump, filter, etc. All in one frame - take from a few different angles so we get a better look at the equipment setup and valve positions.
Here are the pictures I took of the pool equipment area. As a reminder, our spa is attached to our pool. The heater for the spa was broken when we bought the house 2 years ago and has not been replaced so it’s the same temp etc as the pool water. I also included a picture of the pool itself so you can see the setup.
Attachments
I could have sworn that you already gave a recommendation for RPMs and runtime for my pump. But for some reason, I can’t seem to find it. Could you remind me what you recommend?? All of my pool information should be in my signature. I may just start off by doing the exact same 24 hour low RPM for 20 hours that was noted above. If I do, any recommendation on which four hours need the higher RPM?? We do not have SWG or IFCS
If you don’t have any equipment that requires a certain volume then just pick whatever RPM gives you the amount of skimming function that you desire.
Ok, so I followed the previous recommendation and started with 1200rpm for 7 hours, 2800 rpm 4 hours, 1200 rpm for 6 hours. That gets me to the same total hours of the pump running as it was on before but less rpm’s for the majority of the hours. However, I noticed 2 issues: the vacuum was literally not moving ever and nothing was going to the skimmer whatsoever. Even when I turned the skimmer off, the vacuum wouldn’t move. So I upped it to by 100 rpm’s until I got to 1600 and the vacuum is finally moving, but I have the dial chested towards the vacuum so it preferentially gets more suction power than the skimmer. So the skimmer still isn’t really doing much. Am I doing something wrong?? I cleaned out the filters yesterday too the psi went from 4 when clean to 20 after 4 weeks which was a bummer. any advice appreciated!
If you have a vacuum that requires high RPM, then schedule the pump to run at however fast it needs to be for however long you want to run the vacuum. Then the rest of the time it can run the slower speed.