Had a Pentair salt cell that flow switch was bad at beginning of season. Replaced flow switch and ran 24 hours and checked chlorine. Nothing. Had also anticipated salt cell was eol and ordered a replacement cell, IRCF40. Put it in last night and ran all night, it did show low salt initially but I added more salt, and is now running with all lights green. Just checked chlorine level and still nothing. My water is clear and circulating. One cell not working ok, but two, what else could be going on? What should I look for? Should I do a SLAM?
Two salt cells, no chlorine after hours of runtime
- Thread starter wags22
- Start date
22,
You should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.. OCLT...
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If you fail the OCLT, then you would need to do a SLAM
Thanks,
Jim R.
You should do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.. OCLT...
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
If you fail the OCLT, then you would need to do a SLAM
Thanks,
Jim R.
22,
I assume you do not close your pool.. If so, where are you normally keeping your FC?? What is your CYA level??
Thanks,
Jim R.
I assume you do not close your pool.. If so, where are you normally keeping your FC?? What is your CYA level??
Thanks,
Jim R.
Sorry to hijack, but once this is all cleared up, please give us occasional updates on the generic cell. Maybe it's always been there but I just saw it for the first time on DSP recently.
At up to $1000 less than the flagship model, it can die twice as quick and still cost less. Many generic cells have smaller plates, and DSP suspiciously doesn't advertise its expected lifespan, so it'll be good to know how it does long term.
TIA.
And +1 with Jim
1) overnight loss test
If fail, slam.
If pass:
2) overnight gain test
If fail, it's the cell/controller
If pass
3) your CYA is too low for this point in your season.
At up to $1000 less than the flagship model, it can die twice as quick and still cost less. Many generic cells have smaller plates, and DSP suspiciously doesn't advertise its expected lifespan, so it'll be good to know how it does long term.
TIA.
And +1 with Jim
1) overnight loss test
If fail, slam.
If pass:
2) overnight gain test
If fail, it's the cell/controller
If pass
3) your CYA is too low for this point in your season.
Looks like I'm doing another SLAM. Around 3 local time I put in enough liquid chlorine to bring the level to 10 ppm. I test around 630 and it was down to 6 ppm. Tested again this morning and it was at 3 ppm. I also added a gallon of CYA and tested again this morning and it is at 50-60.
@Newdude - I will definitely keep you posted on the generic cell, if I keep it. Hoping that the flow switch replacement keeps the Intellichlor going for another season.
@Newdude - I will definitely keep you posted on the generic cell, if I keep it. Hoping that the flow switch replacement keeps the Intellichlor going for another season.
OCLT was 1 ppm. I've put the old cell back in place. What would be an adequate setting and test to determine if it is still functioning?
What were the CCs ? That's a borderline pass currently and personally I prefer to pass with flying colors.
I'm glad you asked so we can teach you your unit and PoolMath.
Go to the upper left corner of pool math to the Hamburger menu and select effects of adding.
Then select SWG and your cell from the drop down menus.
Then you can adjust the hours and % to see what you should expect in perfect conditions. Say. 8 hours overnight at 100% equals 4.5 FC. (Or any combo). Then run an overnight test with those parameters to see if you made what you should.
(Currently the 1ppm loss would skew that accordingly).
Well, I'm fairly certain my Intellichlor is still working, put it in this morning before the system turned on, have it set for 80%. After running for 8 hours and the pool sitting for another 4 my FC is at 6 which is 3 higher than it was this morning. CC is at 2 for a TC of 8. Is that low for CC?
I may have to drain some water off though, the intellichlor is now showing the salt level to be too high after the generic cell said it was too low and I added another bag of salt.
Thanks for pointing out the Pool Math menu, I either forgot or didn't realize it was there.
I may have to drain some water off though, the intellichlor is now showing the salt level to be too high after the generic cell said it was too low and I added another bag of salt.
Thanks for pointing out the Pool Math menu, I either forgot or didn't realize it was there.
Time to SLAM Process
Never adjust salt without testing yourself with a k1766, for this reason. The cell is off more and prone to being wrong. Or something is wrong with the sensor and it's really off.