Chemicals seem to have no effect

It takes less than 5 minutes to test and dose.
If you go out to look at the pool, take a quick water sample while you are out there.
Test daily until you have a better feel for what your pool needs.
Keep a log of daily test results and chemical additions.
As the temps heat up, you will need to add more chlorine each time as the heat and UV will burn off more.

Dose for a higher target - maybe closer to FC 10 or just under FC 10.
Running a little hot is WAY better than running a little low.

Increase your CYA from 40 to 50 (or even 60) - and increase your FC target accordingly.
FC/CYA Levels
If your FC is >10, the pH test is invalid. Wait for the FC to drop to 10 or less before testing pH.

Once you determine daily loss, it will be easier to dose accordingly.

Seriously consider a SWG. While the initial cost may seem high, you are paying for the chlorine up front. You also save chasing after liquid chlorine and jug lugging. While a SWG is NOT set and forget, it makes keeping sufficient chlorine in the pool easier.

CarefreeTee said:

Been testing every other day. I added enough chlorine to be up to 8.0 2-days ago. I’m down to 2.0 this morning. I have not been testing after I add the chlorine. Frankly, I’m getting a little worn out on testing all the time. I can see why people go to chlorine tablets. But I am committed to this method though I feel like this is going to be much more expensive in the long run. :/ Disappointed in the FC stability. We’ve been at about 91° the last few days. Need a pep-talk

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Your log says your pool is using about 2ppm FC per day. A couple days ago you measured 2.5ppm and then added 5ppm of liquid. Two days later you are back down to 2ppm. It seems to be adding up. You just need to add 2-2.5ppm of FC per day at a minimum. Try adding the 64oz every other day and see how things go. If it keeps dropping, increase that to 96oz. No need to measure after each chlorine addition, just use the next test to project whats gonna happen in a couple days.

CarefreeTee said:

Good morning. I added 16 oz of MA yesterday and 102 oz of chlorine. Designed to go down to 7.5 pH and up to 10 ppm FC. I did not test afterwards and today I’m getting 5 ppm FC and I don’t know what the pH is reading on the block. I’m guessing 8.3 (see photo) but the pH meter is AWOL at 10.1. I am inclined to quit using the pH meter or get another one.

Also, does it mean anything if the chlorine cylinder for drop test starts to turn pink on its own right away after testing. Within a minute?

FC 5
pH 8.2???

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Id agree with mknauss on the pH. Id call it 7.9.

If you leave the FC test alone itll start to turn pink again. Ignore that and stop the test when it goes clear the first time.

If you're only going to dose every 2 days, bump your CYA to 50 now. Dose for the high end of the FC target range or a few points higher. Never let the FC fall to the minimum.
As it gets hotter and the sun angle changes, you are going to need to check your levels more frequently.

My WAG is you will be adding 48-64 ounces of chlorine every other day - and that is probably on the low side.
If you put a few extra ounces in it's not a big deal - but if you short the dose by a few ounces you can easily fall below minimum.

Seriously look into a SWG. The initial cost isn't as shocking when you remember you are buying all the chlorine up front. And no more jug lugging.

You also need to be checking pH and dosing to keep your pH in check better.
Keep the CSI in the 0.00 to -0.30 (negative 0.30) range to minimize scaling and calcium buildup on the waterline tile.