Hayward Goldline PL-PLUS is dead!

Jump to latest Follow Reply
dc757 said:
Should I do this first and then test voltages?
Click to expand...

I don't think it makes a difference with your voltage testing. But the wire is now unnecessary and may confuse someone working on the panel in the future.

Remove the wire at both ends.
 
Check the black line to neutral, red to neutral and red to black.

Red to black should be about 240 volts.

Red to neutral and black to neutral should be exactly half of the voltage between red and black and they should be the same.

For example, if the voltage from red to black is 246 volts, the voltage from red to neutral and black to neutral should be 123 volts.

If the voltage from red to neutral and black to neutral is not exactly the same +/- 1 volt, you probably have a defective neutral from the main panel to the subpanel or from the power company transformer to your home.
 
She's alive! How...PFM? Ok so I tested continuity on non replaceable fuse, no tone. Tested pink fuse on left side of board for continuity, got tone. Check OHM on non replaceable fuse and got reading. Turned on both breakers and checked input voltage to board, good voltage. A few seconds later the pump fired up but no display. A few seconds later display turns on. I then completely removed the extra neutral wire as recommended and powered everything back up. Working. I let it run for an hour or so, powered everything down and back up. Working. I checked light as well, working. Again...I have no idea how I fixed it. Perhaps I reset the non replaceable fuse? Why no continuity? Do I just walk away and file this one away as PFM?
 
JamesW said:
Your system looks older than 2 years.

Is it in a bad environment for some reason?

Did you do the process I recommended to check the voltage on both legs and the neutral?
Click to expand...
2021 eye witness. Lol. Yorktown VA. Mild winters. Hot humid summers. Nothing crazy.

No I didn't get that far. I was following flow chart. Once it began working I moved on to the normal pool opening process. I can certainly still check both legs and neutral if you think it's still necessary.
 
dc757 said:
I can certainly still check both legs and neutral if you think it's still necessary.
Click to expand...
Yes, this has me concerned that maybe the neutral is bad.

247/2 = 123.5 volts.

247 - 112.6 = 134.4

247 - 124.8 = 122.2

124.8 - 112.6 = 12.2 volts.

Red to neutral and black to neutral should be exactly half of the voltage between red and black and they should be the same.

If you have a bad neutral, the voltages will be different because the 115 volt loads are forced into series and the voltage divides unevenly if the loads are not exactly balanced.

If you have an open neutral and only one side of the power is being used, then there will be no current flow due to no path to the other hot leg.

pxl_20230421_114553551-jpg.484704


pxl_20230421_203318634-jpg.484860

pxl_20230421_203310174-jpg.484858
 
Last edited:
I'm back!! Today I flipped the breakers on at my sub panel and just like last year the display is dead! Last year the display was dead and started working while I was testing voltages without explanation. It worked for 5.5 months without an issue. Shut down sub panel for the winter and today it's dead...again! I found that I have 10v DC across the red and yellow leads at the display panel but the display is blank. Everything else checks out. So....where can I find a new display board? I'd like to not spend $400 on a new one.
Part is G1-066009G-1
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240415_222141852.jpg
    PXL_20240415_222141852.jpg
    572.7 KB · Views: 2
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply