BioGuard BioLab UV sanitizer bulb replacement.

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JamesW said:
If you are not getting any appreciable CCs, I would not invest in getting the UV system working.
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That's a great point. For all Intubate's earlier CC troubles, it would all be back with no UV, iIf the CC issues weren't fixed.

I vote wait a month and see if any CCs return for original reasons or from use and normal pool operation.

If they don't, then give it a few months. Then just fugettaboutit.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
You should keep your CYA at 30ppm for bather comfort. Chlorinated water with no CYA is incredibly harsh and will cause the formation of much nastier CCs due to the reaction rates involved. CYA is a chlorine buffer as well as a stabilizer against UV loss.
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Ok. Should I just add some left over chlorine pucks to raise the CYA? Or some water conditioner?
 
i_intub8_u said:
Should I just add some left over chlorine pucks to raise the CYA? Or some water conditioner?
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Either is fine. Pucks take much longer with +2 CYA each in 17k gallons.

Kinda funny that when you *want* them to boost the CYA, they don't. But use them blindly and it will be jacked in no time.
 
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In your case, buying some liquid CYA (3X more expensive than the granular stuff) might just be easier. Then you can add it slowly to try to creep up on the 30ppm target.

By the way, if that 5ppm number is from a pool store, please don’t use it. Pool store testing is notoriously bad.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
In your case, buying some liquid CYA (3X more expensive than the granular stuff) might just be easier. Then you can add it slowly to try to creep up on the 30ppm target.

By the way, if that 5ppm number is from a pool store, please don’t use it. Pool store testing is notoriously bad.
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I’m going to test my CYA again with my TFT test kit when I test the water next. I just haven’t done that in awhile because I’ve only been adding liquid bleach.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
It’s just going to cost what it costs. This is a 13 year old system from a company that no longer sells the unit made by a manufacturer that no longer exists. The fact that you can even find a replacement bulb is a minor miracle and if you’re insistent on keeping the old unit in place, you should probably buy two bulbs … I would call first and make sure the reseller actually has them for immediate shipment and isn’t just posting a stock photo.

Long term solution is to replace the unit entirely with a system that is actually supported.
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Parts are very hard to find for that model
We just sold our last bulbs last season
I recommend replacing the entire unit as @JoyfulNoise has already said
DelOzone is the brand we now sell
 
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i_intub8_u said:
I’m going to test my CYA again with my TFT test kit when I test the water next. I just haven’t done that in awhile because I’ve only been adding liquid bleach.
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Tested CYA again. With my TFT black dot test tube the lowest it can measure is a CYA of 30. When I filled the test tube all the way up, I could still clearly see the black dot. So my CYA must be much less than 30 (probably closer to the pool store’s 5 then?).

Added the 99.7% pure NaCl slowly to the pool. My initial salt level before adding any salt was around 1650-1700ppm. This must have just been from all the liquid bleach I’ve been adding.

Added a total of 200lbs of salt. My salt level is now 3300ppm which seems about perfect. Started my SWG last night.

Anything wrong with using this specific liquid CYA product to slowly raise my CYA? https://a.co/d/d9awPjr
 
i_intub8_u said:
Tested CYA again. With my TFT black dot test tube the lowest it can measure is a CYA of 30. When I filled the test tube all the way up, I could still clearly see the black dot. So my CYA must be much less than 30 (probably closer to the pool store’s 5 then?).

Added the 99.7% pure NaCl slowly to the pool. My initial salt level before adding any salt was around 1650-1700ppm. This must have just been from all the liquid bleach I’ve been adding.

Added a total of 200lbs of salt. My salt level is now 3300ppm which seems about perfect. Started my SWG last night.

Anything wrong with using this specific liquid CYA product to slowly raise my CYA? Amazon.com
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That one is fine. Just know that the CYA often settles at the bottom of the jug and so you need to really shake it up good to make sure you get a good pour. Otherwise you’ll pour off all the liquid and there will be a thick sludge of CYA left on the bottom.

I would suggest adding only 10ppm at a time and then let the pool circulate for at least 24-36 hours before remeasuring. You can add liquid CYA to the skimmer slowly as that will give you the best distribution possible. Just make sure your filter is very clean for optimal distribution.
 
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gkthomas said:
After alot of seaching last year (or the year before) - I found one at Pool Supply Unlimited (888-836-6025) for $122 (ended up $158 with shipping). I wrote down the following part number: Delta 70-18420BL 7291-L48. The one I received was an exact fit and have been using it ever since. Hope this helps.
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Thanks!
 
JamesW said:
How is the pool doing?

Are you getting any CCs?
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Still fine tuning the SWG. I had it at 25% power for 3-4 days and was barely getting 1ppm FC so put it on 24h turbo mode for a day. This was before I slowly added the CYA tho. So my CYA was probably less than 5. After I got my CYA to 20 or 30, the FC was 10. So I turned off my SWG for the last 5-6 days and have testing daily. The FC has slowly come down. It’s down to 5ppm this morning. So I’m planning on restarting the SWG at 25% tomorrow and see how that goes. I think not having any CYA made the FC get used up immediately and since adding it, it’s stabilized the chlorine.

CC has been 0.5ppm or less the entire time.
 
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i_intub8_u said:
.. I think not having any CYA made the FC get used up immediately and since adding it, it’s stabilized the chlorine.
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Yes. This is well-known in the detailed chemistry of chlorine and cyanurates. The half-life of free chlorine is less than 30mins when there is no CYA. At proper FC/CYA ratios, the half life increases to nearly 8 hours. That is one reason why the correct CYA level is so important for outdoor pools.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
Yes. This is well-known in the detailed chemistry of chlorine and cyanurates. The half-life of free chlorine is less than 30mins when there is no CYA. At proper FC/CYA ratios, the half life increases to nearly 8 hours. That is one reason why the correct CYA level is so important for outdoor pools.
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Right. I was just told you didn’t want much CYA for an indoor pool and to not use tabs/pucks as it will raise the CYA and no way to get rid of it for indoor pool (little to no water refill, no evaporation, etc.). So I didn’t add any when I filled the pool with fresh water. And had just been using liquid chlorine for sanitizer.
 
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