Pump motor is dead, now what!

olevelo

Well-known member
Jul 1, 2023
79
Niceville, FL
Got a no flow notification this morning while at work. Got home and in the evening and tried to fire up the pump and found one of the breakers was tripped. So reset, hit go, and got a short grind, puff of smoke, and a popped breaker. Tried a couple more times and same thing (oddly the breaker popped in different locations each time, either at the control panel or upstream at the sub-breaker box). Pretty sure this guy is toast.

No idea how old this is...looks a little newer than the 20 years old the pool is, but maybe not. Obviously single speed. But I could replace just the motor for pretty cheap. Or go variable speed, which I know is recommended, but I assume I have to replace the whole pump? I'm moderately handy, but basically any plumbing work, especially that has to run as much as this, I leave to pros. So that may limit my options available. It was late by the time I figured all this out so I can't call the pros till tomorrow. But wanted to get an idea of what I should go after in this case. I have an OmniPL automation system that supports VSP and obviously I'd like to integrate into that rather than the pump have a separate controller (assuming I go VSP). Also I'm tempted to steal the motor from the spa (right next to it in the photo) to get me going until a permanent solution can be put in, but sounds like I'd need seals and such and then putting it back would be a pain. Thoughts?
 

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Interesting! I did a little more digging on the pump and it's a Hayward Super II sp3007x10az. Interestingly it's only rated for 1hp. I found a thread talking about drop in replacement VSP motors and it sounds like this pump might support it but not super clear.
 
Interesting! I did a little more digging on the pump and it's a Hayward Super II sp3007x10az. Interestingly it's only rated for 1hp. I found a thread talking about drop in replacement VSP motors and it sounds like this pump might support it but not super clear.
Do you have automation? It makes a difference on what motor you may want to use. Without automation a Nidec Neptune NPTT165 motor will work well.
Be sure to correct those exposed wires at the motor.
 
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Century Connect is built in to the motors now. Century's website has the info.
Wild West Pool Supply. Inyo Pool Supply.
I finally got the new motor installed (by a local company...spent more on the motor and install because I'm about to be gone for 6 months so need the peace of mind it's done right and have warranty support), but automation isn't working. They had never installed one of these with automation. In the end called customer service who directed me to a regional guy, and he said I got old stock that doesn't have the automation. 😡 Supposedly he's sending me a new board and it's supposed to be a pretty easy swap. But apparently there's no way of knowing it's an older motor other than the manual it comes with not talking about Schedule D (my installers had printed out a current manual that does).
 

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I finally got the new motor installed (by a local company...spent more on the motor and install because I'm about to be gone for 6 months so need the peace of mind it's done right and have warranty support), but automation isn't working. They had never installed one of these with automation. In the end called customer service who directed me to a regional guy, and he said I got old stock that doesn't have the automation. 😡 Supposedly he's sending me a new board and it's supposed to be a pretty easy swap. But apparently there's no way of knowing it's an older motor other than the manual it comes with not talking about Schedule D (my installers had printed out a current manual that does).
It was supposed to be on a sticker on the box. Hopefully you get the right board soon.
 
It was supposed to be on a sticker on the box. Hopefully you get the right board soon.
I never got to see the box, so no idea. But the rep I talked to said if it comes with a manual that doesn't talk about Schedule D, it's the old one. Also, I have the dip switches set to schedule D, but it's still letting me set schedule A settings, and I think it's supposed to lock you out (though not sure if it would if it's not communicating properly).

I also noticed that they have the comm wired connected to the small terminal block near the dip switches (labeled In 1-4 and Ground), rather than the RA-485 pins. I'm not sure if those connect to the same thing internally? I tried to call the rep back but no answer.
 
Check out pages 17-18 of the manual for the Century Connect wiring (assuming you have the EVO VGreen Century motor). Dipswitch 3 and 4 should be set to ON for the CenturyConnect to work. This probably only applies to the new board that you will be receiving, so be careful with what wire you put where.
 
Check out pages 17-18 of the manual for the Century Connect wiring (assuming you have the EVO VGreen Century motor). Dipswitch 3 and 4 should be set to ON for the CenturyConnect to work. This probably only applies to the new board that you will be receiving, so be careful with what wire you put where.
Yeah, the installers had printed that out and were following that, so the dip switches were already set.
 
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So the new board arrived today, but I can't install it till Friday at the earliest due to weather and work. But this board also just has pins instead of a connector at the RS485 port so I have no way to connect it. This video (
) shows a terminal block there instead of just pins. So I'm a bit concerned they sent the wrong board. The support guy isn't responding to me though.
 
So the new board arrived today, but I can't install it till Friday at the earliest due to weather and work. But this board also just has pins instead of a connector at the RS485 port so I have no way to connect it. This video (
) shows a terminal block there instead of just pins. So I'm a bit concerned they sent the wrong board. The support guy isn't responding to me though.
You need the connector that goes over those pins. The one at epoolsupply is a different color but the same thing.
1712792634601.png
 
You need the plug that goes over those pins.
View attachment 563609
I ordered a terminal from Amazon that is way cheaper and will get here much quicker...hopefully it works. But my bigger concern is whether the board is supposed to already have it, since both the picture in the manual and the video show it already on the pins.
 
I ordered a terminal from Amazon that is way cheaper and will get here much quicker...hopefully it works. But my bigger concern is whether the board is supposed to already have it, since both the picture in the manual and the video show it already on the pins.
If the board had come with the motor originally it would have been there. The board that was sent was likely from a repair/replacement/warranty supply and wasn't included in the package.
Even as expensive as a Jandy replacement PCB is, they used to come without them until a few years ago.
 
If the board had come with the motor originally it would have been there. The board that was sent was likely from a repair/replacement/warranty supply and wasn't included in the package.
Even as expensive as a Jandy replacement PCB is, they used to come without them until a few years ago.
OK thanks. Hopefully the connector I got will work! I have a 10 pin jandy block that came with my OmniPL but I'd have to break off a piece of plastic on the new board to get it to fit, and that doesn't seem like a good idea!
 
OK thanks. Hopefully the connector I got will work! I have a 10 pin jandy block that came with my OmniPL but I'd have to break off a piece of plastic on the new board to get it to fit, and that doesn't seem like a good idea!
I've had to do that. Once. Wasn't sure it would work, but it did. It's better to get the right one if possible
 

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