New Construction and Re-Plumbing Equipment

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jcrompton

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Jun 2, 2017
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Hurricane, WV
An almost 10 year process - finally , hopefully, finishing pool decking, etc. Currently we have exposed pool equipment on the north end of our pool. Finally able to finish the backyard project with decking and a roofed kitchen/ pool house / bar area. It would seem that this enclosed area is going to be much better to be located on the South side.

In an effort to have our pool equipment covered (and unexposed visually to our driveway) it would be better to have the pool equipment moved from North to South and in the newly built enclosure. Rather than digging up lots of very solid ground all the way around the pool it would seem easier to just run a single (or even all 3) 2 inch flexible PVC inflow line connected at the north side back to the south side new equipment location. And a single (or 3 outflow - 2 deep and 1 skimmer) 2 inch flexible PVC for the pool outflow.
If we did single lines it would probably add 50 ft of distance

I have attached photos to give a better visual

Any thoughts?

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Do not use flex PVC. It will come back to bite you eventually. With a bit more work you can run rigid PVC in any direction.

I would do 2.5” feeder pipes.

You also need to reroute some electrical conduits for pool lights and maybe other stuff.
 
Thank you !!!! for the quick response. I mispoke and only recognized it after your response.
When the pool was installed years ago I know they used flexible PVC at install (AND it looks like all the lines are 1 1/2" pipes - 3 inflows and 3 returns [one skimmer and 2 deep drains]).
The only place to get to the plumbing without literally digging up esentially the entire yard would be at the point the lines come out of the ground to connect to the existing pool equipment ---- so the best I can tell the only viable option is to run 1 single inflow line (or 3 if we connect lower to the place they converge) and 1 single outflow (or 3 ). If the existing lines are already 1 1/2 inch would there be benefit in upsizing for the long run to the new equipment location ???

PS I am asking to learn but I remember when this pool was put in, the installer I were discussing a prior experience with a pool we owned 20 years ago -- the pool was gunnite and had a stamped concrete deck (all fairly new construction , at that time we lived in AL). The pipes were solid PVC and as the deep end corner deck settle a little over a few years it literally sheard the solid pipe by bending and collapsing. The later conversations were that this might not have occurred with flexible PVC ?? Is there no truth to that? I know almost all underground plumbing here in WV is done with flexible PVC -- is that not standard?
 
jcrompton said:
so the best I can tell the only viable option is to run 1 single inflow line (or 3 if we connect lower to the place they converge) and 1 single outflow (or 3 ). If the existing lines are already 1 1/2 inch would there be benefit in upsizing for the long run to the new equipment location ???
Click to expand...

Can't hurt and may help for a small incremental cost increase.

jcrompton said:
PS I am asking to learn but I remember when this pool was put in, the installer I were discussing a prior experience with a pool we owned 20 years ago -- the pool was gunnite and had a stamped concrete deck (all fairly new construction , at that time we lived in AL). The pipes were solid PVC and as the deep end corner deck settle a little over a few years it literally sheard the solid pipe by bending and collapsing. The later conversations were that this might not have occurred with flexible PVC ?? Is there no truth to that?
Click to expand...

I think flex PVC would have been damaged as much.

jcrompton said:
I know almost all underground plumbing here in WV is done with flexible PVC -- is that not standard?
Click to expand...

Nope, it's lazy and cheap.
 
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They may have abandoned using wood chips as filler, but I know a handful of people IRL who had their flex PVC eaten by termites.
 
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Thanks for all the input
Man I hate to have them dig up the entire yard at probably pretty great expense (not to mention the fact that it has been working well for over 5 years) -- so hopefully just running new lines back from the existing equip location to the new equipment location is acceptable
 
What's in the ground is in the ground. Cross your fingers and hope you never need to see it again. For anything new, use rigid PVC.
 
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I live in WV (moderate summer heat, defintely cold sub-freeze winters with moderate moisture). We have an in-ground freeform pool. Money constraints lead to partial finishing of the project 5+ yrs ago. Did medium term Home Depot pavers in limited areas just to keep the dog mud out of the pool (esp since the pool mainly belongs to 2 German Shepherds and a lab, lol). Hopefully the pictures sume things up. The retangular cement around the pool was poured as a "bond beam" - current pavers abut the concrete and are level with the concrete and plastic pool lip.
  • We want to finish the pool deck along with some type of coping.
  • We want to get the pool equipment covered.
  • We would like to have an electric automatic pool cover (perferably inground box).
  • Consider building an outdoor covered area (for TV, ? grill/kitchen, and possible cover pool equipment)
  1. Stamped concrete seems to be expensive here in our area and every builder/installer talks about "cracking" with every 10th word. We are considering nicer pavers along with coping pavers - thoughts (pavers vs concrete - expense and climate)? Is travertine a possibility in our climate (I have seen mixed thoughts in various threads)?
  2. As far as paver install - would it be acceptable to install or lay paver (esp the coping pavers) right on top of the "bond beam" concrete that is level with the top of the pool? Some sort of grout or "cushioning" adhesive?? Would it be best to remove the temporary pavers or could they somehow be used for a "stable base" for new pavers?? (probably a stupid question)
  3. Already posted a thread about the plumbing - but need to decide if we move the pool equipment form north end to south end of pool so as to be able to be eclosed / cover by oudoor building for kitchen ? This would require running an inflow and an outlow 2 1/2 lines approx 40 to 50 feet to move the equpiment (without digging up the existing lines). Or leaving the pool equipment and have to build an enclosure - otherwise it defeats the whole purpose of having things look better.
Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated
 

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proavia said:
What about building a vinyl privacy fence around the existing pool equipment?
No replumbing, digging, etc.
Click to expand...
That would be an option -- the issues are 1) still visible when driving up in our driveway and 2) not really covered and potentially in an area that could be heated at least to an above freezing level --- may sound insane but would much prefer to leave the pool open during winter
 
If you put coping on top of the concrete collar you will need to raise the level of the entire deck around the pool.

When you say "coping pavers" what do you mean? Precast coping? Pavers with a bull nose edge by the pool?

You can put pavers down on the existing base if it is stable.
 
ajw22 said:
If you put coping on top of the concrete collar you wimake them equal ll need to raise the level of the entire deck around the pool.

When you say "coping pavers" what do you mean? Precast coping? Pavers with a bull nose edge by the pool?

You can put pavers down on the existing base if it is stable.
Click to expand...
I think pavers with a bull nose OR precast coping -- and then new - fancier, lighter colored pavers either on top of existing pavers or removing existing pavers and raising the base to make them equal to the bull nose pavers or precast coping.
My wife really wants lighter color and the ones that I am seeing that would be cheaper or more durable (like concrete) are too dark or too "grey".
A color like attached --- I just don't know if travertine or the natural stones are options for our climate?
 

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So I have now had 2 builders want to and suggest during a new pool house build, placing the pool equipment below the pool house in a basement area. I have read many of the threads and the articles about pressure - etc

Is it even possible or completely unadvisable to place the pool equipment that low ? We currently have the pool equipment just above water level but to get it covered we would have to put a large extension on the pool house
 
jcrompton said:
So I have now had 2 builders want to and suggest during a new pool house build, placing the pool equipment below the pool house in a basement area. I have read many of the threads and the articles about pressure - etc

Is it even possible or completely unadvisable to place the pool equipment that low ? We currently have the pool equipment just above water level but to get it covered we would have to put a large extension on the pool house
Click to expand...

How far below the waterline would the pump be in the basement?

I think it depends on the numbers, the pump used, and the efficiency of the rest of your plumbing.

Be prepared for a lot of number crunching if you want to work through the feasibility with @mas985
 
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When the pump is below the water level, it is really a non issue no matter what the depth may be. The reason is that on the suction side, there is static head gain (drop) and on the return side, there is static head loss (lift) and as long as the water is being returned to the same body of water as the suction side, they net to zero static head loss so it has no impact on flow rates or RPM settings.

However, you will need isolation valves to close off the suction and return lines when servicing the equipment.
 
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mas985 said:
When the pump is below the water level, it is really a non issue no matter what the depth may be. The reason is that on the suction side, there is static head gain (drop) and on the return side, there is static head loss (lift) and as long as the water is being returned to the same body of water as the suction side, they net to zero static head loss so it has no impact on flow rates or RPM settings.

However, you will need isolation valves to close off the suction and return lines when servicing the equipment.
Click to expand...
That is very helpful! How much of a worry do you think is realistic -- someone mentioned a major hardware failure leading to a near complete emptying of the pool -- is that really a big worry? The pool equipment would be about even with the deep end drains (2) that are approx 6 feet deep in the water.
 

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