First time pool chemistry test help

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Lampasas1

Gold Supporter
Jun 18, 2023
80
South Texas
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I have a fiberglass pool currently being installed. Installation is 90% complete. I am waiting on an additional spillover scupper for the elevated spa to be installed before we can finish the spa surround and pool decking.

I’ve had water in the pool for a month. Some background info: The pool was initially dirty with leaves, sand, gravel. The installer sent a guy over 2-3 weeks ago who cleaned the pool, added clarifier, and cleaned the filters after pool was clear. The only thing that has been added to the pool water to my knowledge is clarifier and salt. I have been able to maintain clarity of the pool by emptying the skimmers, skim the surface for floating debris and daily robot.

Today i performed my first pool chemistry test using the tf pro kit. The water is clear, but the test parameters are out of range and looking for advice and what to do next.

I logged everything into pool math, but here are the results:

FC 0
TA 130
CYA 0
pH 8.2
CH did not perform

this is the current setting of the IC40 swg
IMG_3906.jpeg
 
So your main pump is operating correct? If so, I would add some muriatic acid to lower the pH down to about 7.2. That should also help to lower the TA a bit. After that, add about 3 ppm of liquid chlorine. You can also use the sock method to add 30-40 ppm of granular stabilizer. Your water should still be chilly, so you don't need a higher CYA just yet.
 
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So the IC40 will make about 17 FC in 24 hours for you. It's evidently running long enough that it overcomes the sun erasing any production with no CYA. The cool water has helped you tremendously.

Get 50 ppm of granular CYA / stabilizer hanging in a sock(s), carrot on a stick like, in front of a working return. It may take a day or two to become mush and squeeze out with cool water. Once it's dispersed, give it a few days and test again. We can creep up to 70 as it warms up. 50 is plenty for now and less likely to overshoot with unconfirmed gallons. The manufacturer may have used full to the brim, not 6 inces below.

*edit. Pat beat me. 30 to 40 is fine too.
 
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Texas Splash said:
So your main pump is operating correct?
Click to expand...
Yes main pump is currently running 22 hrs a day with 2 hours of that in spillover mode.

Texas Splash said:
I would add some muriatic acid to lower the pH down to about 7.2.
Click to expand...
Pool math recs 1 qt, 1cup, 1 oz of 29% muriatic acid to lower the pH to 7.2. What is the best method to add the MA? Can I just pour it into the pool deep end?

Texas Splash said:
After that, add about 3 ppm of liquid chlorine.
Click to expand...
IMG_4271.png
Does 1 qt , 6 oz liquid bleach look right? Also, I see an option to increase the swg output to 100% for 24 hrs. Should I do that or leave it at its current setting? TIA
 
Lampasas1 said:
Yes main pump is currently running 22 hrs a day with 2 hours of that in spillover mode.
Click to expand...
So you've been making 15.5 FC a day, and with no CYA it burns off as fast as you make it.

But. It's kept you clear so far, so there is that.
Lampasas1 said:
What is the best method to add the MA?
Click to expand...
Put the bottle low to the water or even partially submerged to greatly reduce splashing. I poured chest high like a clown for way too many years.

With a return on high, a pencil sized stream will get whisked away. Brush well after just in case any puddled up on the bottom.

Fumes are totally OK providing you aren't huffing them on purpose. They let you know you're doing it wrong and are a good thing. Change your position if need be pouring lefty/ righty if you're catching a whiff in the wind. One side of you is always down wind.

Lampasas1 said:
Does 1 qt , 6 oz liquid bleach look right? Also, I see an option to increase the swg output to 100% for 24 hrs. Should I do that or leave it at its current setting? TIA
Click to expand...
You're already losing 15+ ppm a day. I don't think 3 more is going to matter. Get the CYA going and be prepared to make way too MUCH fc once it's mixed.
 
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mknauss said:
SWCG lights show it is set at 40%. Or 4% if they happen to be flashing. So the FC generation is less.
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Right. Sorry. 6.2 FC a day @ 40% / 22 hours. If the sun has been blowing through that each day this time of year, it'll probanly do 3 more just the same. Either way, we're almost there with some CYA in the pool.
 
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I’m in need of some pool math help. I am slowly getting my pool chemistry within acceptable range;
-slowly getting alkalinity down
-slowly raising cya
-pH has been a constant battle to lower into range but I can manage with muriatic acid
In doing some reading today, I found that I need to be checking for csi as well. I added it to pool math as a test, but I cannot get pool math to log it on the home page. When I provide the info needed, it will calculate a csi value, but it does not give me an option to save the value. What am I doing wrong?
IMG_4312.png
 
Yes I have done that but the value won’t populate on the home page. I don’t see an option to check or populate the csi value after it is calculated
 

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