Erratic salt readings from my T15 Cell

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Gord001

Gord001

Bronze Supporter
Sep 3, 2023
11
Canada
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
My salt readings don't match. In instant and average readings I also have a check cell and Check salt light on. I have cleaned my cell. I have a spare cell that I have cleaned and tried also. I have been to the dealer and had the water tested 5 times and my salt leave was 3200 in all tests. I have gone to a different company for a retest and they confirmed the results. The replaced the circuit board as I was told it was defective. Still doing the same thing. I have been lent there test cell from the company and it does the same thing. I have checked the T cell setting matches the T-15 cell.
I am at a loss. Any suggestions? The voltages and Amps show OK when the cell is functioning. It does work for a period of time until it recalculated the average salt then I get the warning lights then it stops generating.
I have also tested the cells on my cleaning adapter with pool water in the cell and it does bubble. But the issue seems to be with the sensor circuit.
 
Welcome to TFP.

Does your Aquarite system power off when your pump stops?

Is your Aquarite connected to the same power as your pump?
 
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

Does your Aquarite system power off when your pump stops?

Is your Aquarite connected to the same power as your pump?
Click to expand...
I have a single speed pump that runs constantly. The pump is on 240 volt and the salt system is on 120 volt. I just saw the post about the hump going down. I have never had the hump on mine facing down but I switched it as I am willing to try anything at this point. It is still reading -1200. I did manage to get the cell set to 3200 so it will work for a while again. Lights are off till it recalculates. Starting to think I got a bad circuit board but the last one did the same thing and all 3 cells do the same thing. Hard to believe 2 bad boards and 3 bad cells. Have you ever heard of water chemistry causing bad sensing? Regards Gord
 
Show us pics of your equipment pad.

You sure your pump runs 24/7?

This is the basic diagnostic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
ajw22 said:
Show us pics of your equipment pad.

You sure your pump runs 24/7?

This is the basic diagnostic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately the serial number is damaged on both the salt cells. The loaner from the pool store I can get. But I just rotated it down as per an instruction on the form. I currently have it reading 3200 as i managed to catch it during the reset procedure so all readings as good at the moment other than instant read out doesn't match average. instant is -1200 The loaner cell serial number is 5E18017-202269. The Numbers are consistent after getting it lo lock in at 3200. temp 88, voltage 26.3, amp 2.91, percentage 69, instant -1100, on this test, AL-0, R 1.59, that's my new board, T-15, the loaner cell and my other 2 are all T-15.
The actual salinity is 3200 measured 4 times at one pool store and today I went to another for a different opinion and they came up with the same. This time with a centrifugal tested and a strip tester.
Oh yes my pump definitely runs 24 -7. The diagnostic chart on Haywards Website says to call them. I suspect I will have to wait till Tuesday to call them for more help. It is interesting that there seem to be several people with similar problems. I just feel like I have covered all the bases. I also went so far as to fill a cell with pool water and add a bit of extra salt water and it did seem to sense it.
Regards Gord
 

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Have you moved the switch from AUTO to OFF three times and got the diagnostics each time?

Tell me all three sets of diagnostics.
 
ajw22 said:
Have you moved the switch from AUTO to OFF three times and got the diagnostics each time?

Tell me all three sets of diagnostics.
Click to expand...
Ok I did it 2 more times. the only numbers that change are the average, I had 3200 3700 and 3100 the instant showed as -1100, -2500, -1200. The voltages 26.3, 25.1 26.0. and the Amps 2.91, 5.30, 3.33. All the other numbers remain the same.
Regards Gord
 
The SWG has two polarities for the cell plates that it switches every 180 minutes.

You have one polarity that is bad and drawing about 3 amps which gives about 1200 in salt.

The other polarity is closer to normal with 5.3 amps and 2500.

Normal reading should be between 6-7 amps and 3000+ salt.

You say you have a new board and a new cell. But the diagnostics say there is a problem with the cell.

Can you show us pics of the board and the cell?

Let’s see if @JamesW has some ideas.
 
ajw22 said:
The SWG has two polarities for the cell plates that it switches every 180 minutes.

You have one polarity that is bad and drawing about 3 amps which gives about 1200 in salt.

The other polarity is closer to normal with 5.3 amps and 2500.

Normal reading should be between 6-7 amps and 3000+ salt.

You say you have a new board and a new cell. But the diagnostics say there is a problem with the cell.

Can you show us pics of the board and the cell?

Let’s see if @JamesW has some ideas.
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The cell that is on at the moment is a loaner.
Regards Gord
 

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The cell is 5 years old from 2018 and likely used.

You should try a new cell.
 

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ajw22 said:
The cell is 5 years old from 2018 and likely used.

You should try a new cell.
Click to expand...
I was thinking you would say that. I just put my old cell back on and it is a T-15 and on the cycled testing it seems to do the same thing only with slightly lower numbers. I suspect due to it being the lighter cell. I will try my other cell in the morning and see what it says.It is getting dark here now. Is this a common way the cell fails? Just thinking could the transformer cause this. Or does it feed of the same winding/ How does it reverse the polarity?

Thanks for your help.
 
You really need to see how your system performs with a new unused cell.
 
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ajw22 said:
You really need to see how your system performs with a new unused cell.
Click to expand...
Thanks I now see what you are referring to on the diagnosis chart. I see it refers me back to page 3 . Basically need a new cell. I suspect you are correct the cell they lent me is no good. I will go one step further tomorrow and install my other cell to see what it does. The difference is definitely more than .75 amps.
Thanks again you have been very helpful.
Regards Gord
 
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Gord001 said:
Thanks I now see what you are referring to on the diagnosis chart. I see it refers me back to page 3 . Basically need a new cell. I suspect you are correct the cell they lent me is no good. I will go one step further tomorrow and install my other cell to see what it does. The difference is definitely more than .75 amps.
Thanks again you have been very helpful.
Regards Gord
Click to expand...
Thank you so much I just installed the new cell. It reads perfectly. The pool companies loaner was obviously defective. The amp difference is almost nothing and the salt readings match.
Regards Gord
 
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