Shocking

2neuges

Well-known member
Jun 26, 2023
56
Paragould, AR
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello, I'm a new pool owner and trying to read all that I can here on TFP.
We have a 25,000 gallon vinyl liner pool sanitized with liquid chlorine only.
My CYA is currently 47
I'm having trouble maintaining my target level of FC without breaking the bank...I have to add about a ½ gallon every day to keep it up at 4.5 FC.
Also, I'm a bit confused about how to shock with liquid chlorine too and how that saves money rather than something like cal-hypo?
Thanks so much for any and all help!
 
Welcome to the forum. How are you testing? 47 looks like a pool store number.
We need accurate test results to give you good advice. Liquid chlorine adds chlorine only. No extra CYA or Calcium.

The minimum for your 50 CYA is 4 if that's accurate. You should be targeting 6-8 and I say closer to 8 if your pool burns off about 3-4 FC daily. Mine does.
64 ounces of liquid chlorine daily only raises the FC in your size pool by 2 daily.
 
Last edited:
1/2 gallon of 10% LC only adds 2 FC per day to your 25,000 gal pool. My pool requires 3.5-4 ppm daily so you should consider yourself lucky in that regard.

A saltwater chlorine generator will save you money in the long run (not to mention the increased convenience, which is priceless).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
You generally pay more for less fc with cal hypo & cal hypo adds calcium which you may or may not need.
These are average prices. I personally pay less than this for liquid chlorine. A swcg is the cheapest in the long run.
IMG_7248.jpegIMG_7247.jpeg
I concur with the others- you’re keeping your fc too low.
This risks algae- you want target range
FC/CYA Levels
 
  • Like
Reactions: HermanTX
Hello, I'm a new pool owner and trying to read all that I can here on TFP.
We have a 25,000 gallon vinyl liner pool sanitized with liquid chlorine only.
My CYA is currently 47
I'm having trouble maintaining my target level of FC without breaking the bank...I have to add about a ½ gallon every day to keep it up at 4.5 FC.
Also, I'm a bit confused about how to shock with liquid chlorine too and how that saves money rather than something like cal-hypo?
Thanks so much for any and all help!
Calhypo adds calcium to the water which when the level gets high enough causes scaling. If calhypo is cheaper per FC, you can use it if you change out the water periodically, but that doesn’t make it cheaper anymore. A salt water chlorinator is a better option as mentioned above.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
Welcome to the forum. How are you testing? 47 looks like a pool store number.
We need accurate test results to give you good advice. Liquid chlorine adds chlorine only. No extra CYA or Calcium.

The minimum for your 50 CYA is 4 if that's accurate. You should be targeting 6-8 and I say closer to 8 if your pool burns off about 3-4 FC daily. Mine does.
64 ounces of liquid chlorine daily only raises the FC in your size pool by 2 daily.
Thanks for your reply! I have a DPD test for at home, but I got the 47 from the pool store where I buy my liquid chlorine. I'm reading on TFP that people can get by by spending just hundreds each pool season, but if I were to maintain my chlorine levels at 4 minimum each day and shock it with nearly 4 gallons every time my pool needed a SLAM, I'd be spending literally hundreds on liquid chlorine in just one month. A 12.5% jug of 128 ounces is $10 a pop where I live...
 
You generally pay more for less fc with cal hypo & cal hypo adds calcium which you may or may not need.
These are average prices. I personally pay less than this for liquid chlorine. A swcg is the cheapest in the long run.
View attachment 520586View attachment 520587
I concur with the others- you’re keeping your fc too low.
This risks algae- you want target range
FC/CYA Levels
Thank you. How would converting to swg save me money? I keep reading this, but I don't know what it looks like in reality.
 
Have you looked around? Pool stores are rarely the best place to get liquid chlorine and even with the recent price bumps that's nearly double the typical price.
Yes I have. Pool store is the only place that sells liquid chlorine at that concentration. Otherwise I can get 10% at Walmart for $6
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
If you're using the approach of "every time my pool needs a SLAM" ....your approach is wrong. And I seriously doubt you can perform a SLAM on that size pool with 4 gallons.

It may SHOCK you to know that members here with a properly maintained pool NEVER have to SLAM.
Wow, well that's good to know...bear with me please, I'm new and learning.
I just assumed I would have to SLAM often, just like the pool stores suggests I shock often
 
Thanks for your reply! I have a DPD test for at home, but I got the 47 from the pool store where I buy my liquid chlorine. I'm reading on TFP that people can get by by spending just hundreds each pool season, but if I were to maintain my chlorine levels at 4 minimum each day and shock it with nearly 4 gallons every time my pool needed a SLAM, I'd be spending literally hundreds on liquid chlorine in just one month. A 12.5% jug of 128 ounces is $10 a pop where I live...
It's overwhelming at first but know if you follow the TFP guidelines, that you will rarely have to Slam your pool.
Last year between mid May and mid October, I only spent $350 on Chlorine. So far this year I have spent only $150 thanks to my new solar cover which prevents some heat and chlorine loss.
4 years ago I spent $1,000s of dollars following the pool store advice of Trichlor, shocking, algaecide and the results were no swimming. Now I test daily with own test kit, TF-100 (FC, CC, PH). I test weekly TA, CH. And monthly I test CYA.
In the last 3 years I've had to Slam once, when I went camping and my wife forgot to add chlorine for 2 days, but I attacked swiftly following the guidelines and I was back to swimming after 2 days. This year I haven't had to touch PH, CH, TA at all and I only added some stabilizer to get it to 40ppm. Testing yourself is one of the most important things though.
 
It's overwhelming at first but know if you follow the TFP guidelines, that you will rarely have to Slam your pool.
Last year between mid May and mid October, I only spent $350 on Chlorine. So far this year I have spent only $150 thanks to my new solar cover which prevents some heat and chlorine loss.
4 years ago I spent $1,000s of dollars following the pool store advice of Trichlor, shocking, algaecide and the results were no swimming. Now I test daily with own test kit, TF-100 (FC, CC, PH). I test weekly TA, CH. And monthly I test CYA.
In the last 3 years I've had to Slam once, when I went camping and my wife forgot to add chlorine for 2 days, but I attacked swiftly following the guidelines and I was back to swimming after 2 days. This year I haven't had to touch PH, CH, TA at all and I only added some stabilizer to get it to 40ppm. Testing yourself is one of the most important things though.
Thanks so much for this. This is really helpful!
 
And it degrades quickly at 12.5%. It's usually 10% or 11% by the time it hits the pool. (Unless buying in bulk with a high turnover supplier)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mdragger88
if I were to maintain my chlorine levels at 4 minimum each day
You would be inviting large problems. Stay far away from the minimum. Keep your FC at or above target for your CYA level.

If you keep your FC at or above target, you'll most likely never have to SLAM your pool. Routine shocking isn't needed.

I have a DPD test for at home, but I got the 47 from the pool store where I buy my liquid chlorine.
What model kit do you have?
 
Thank you. How would converting to swg save me money? I keep reading this, but I don't know what it looks like in reality.
Staying out of the pool store and just using liquid chlorine would save you money right there because you won’t be buying their magic stuff to fix problems they caused with their bad testing equipment. The trouble with liquid chlorine is that you have to buy it, pick it up, and pour it in. A salt chlorine generator creates chlorine for you right at the equipment pad from the little salt that’s in the water. Once the salt is in, it regenerates chlorine for you all day long at lower cost than buying it in liquid or powder form, and the bonus is that you don’t ever have to go buy chlorine.
 
Get your liquid chlorine at Walmart- unless you can find it cheaper somewhere else.
Some people find it cheaper at Ace, or even janitorial suppliers.
I happen to buy mine for cheaper than Walmart at a pool store that does refillable 2.5 gallon jugs because they use it on their routes. You may need to call around.
As for the cost to switch to a swcg-
Here’s a comparison I made last year based on average fc consumption when bleach was cheaper. This particular swcg is still the same price.
IMG_7304.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2neuges and Newdude
Thank you! Sorry I missed this! That was honestly the most helpful reply. I'm trying to wrap my head around how people get away with spending a few hundred dollars on chemicals a year following the TFP plan, and I've already spent a fortune on liquid bleach...I have to add roughly ½ gallon/day to maintain a minimum of 4 ppm FC...I'm guessing the TFP helps you save money on the rest of the chemicals you may otherwise be spending money on?
 
I've already spent a fortune on liquid bleach
Get a SWCG. By far the least expensive and most convenient way to chlorinate your pool.

I have to add roughly ½ gallon/day to maintain a minimum of 4 ppm FC
Again, stay far away from the minimum. Maintain your FC at or above target at all times.

I'm guessing the TFP helps you save money on the rest of the chemicals you may otherwise be spending money on?
Yes. TFPC will save you money, time, and effort while delivering superior outcomes. If you have a SWCG providing chlorine, you'll only routinely need MA. Add salt and CYA a couple times a year as needed.

We still don't know how are you're testing.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.