Circupool SWCG and MA Stenner injection set up

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JB007

JB007

Silver Supporter
Apr 3, 2022
80
Houston
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
So I decided to go with an SWCG. Planning on getting the Circupool RJ-60+
Here is the way I plan on setting it up. i attached 2 pictures of how my pool equipment is laid out and based on that I may need to get also the vertical set up kit.
If anyone has some input as to what other options they see, that would be great. If I add the vertical set up, it would be just really high up. the only option I see is to have the install on the bottom pipe (bottom of the heater, where the wood 2x4 piece is laying), but then i have no or very diffiuclt access to it.

IMG_20211118_165347537_HDR.jpgInkedIMG_20211118_165344462 w draw.jpg
 
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How long is the bottom run towards the base?

Also, depending on the length and spacing, I think you could put the cell on the upside right before your red drawing.
 
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I would put your switch in the horizontal run just above the concrete and the cell in the vertical pipe right before the red coloring in your drawing.
 
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jamesey said:
How long is the bottom run towards the base?

Also, depending on the length and spacing, I think you could put the cell on the upside right before your red drawing.
Click to expand...
the bottom run along the front and back of the heater is about 3ft. maybe 4. but difficult to access.
the space (red) where I plan the vertical kit is about 12-14 inches wide. so I cannot put the body of the SWCG. Only the vertical kit would fit.
PoolStored said:
I would put your switch in the horizontal run just above the concrete and the cell in the vertical pipe right before the red coloring in your drawing.
Click to expand...
that might work. basically doing a vertical install right before the 90 on my red drawing. still would give me fairly good access I think.
is there any disadvantage at doing a vertical built ?
 
Take a look at your heater manual to see if there’s a recommended spacing between it and the SWG. I just installed a RJ-60+ myself and vaguely recall reading about that.

I have mine installed vertically and have no problems. Good choice, you’ll love it
 
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so here we go. Got my Circupool arrived this morning and I should get my Stenner Tueday.
I have attached my "semi-final" plumbing set up configuration. If I could get some input on what you'll thoughts are; improvements or recommendations, things I could add or change for ease or for safety. Things i did not think about.
Any input would be great. Once it is set and glued it's game over, lol. So am trying to incorporate all the things I have read via these blogs.
Thanks again!
 

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No other inputs from me! Best of luck.

What are you plans for the chlorine feeder? Just curious
 
what do you mean by plan for the chlorine feeder?
I am setting up a SWCG. so that should take care of the chlorine.
MA acid will be done with Stenner pump/tank
 

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Oh, the old tablet feeder. I was going to leave it and tape up the cover to make sure nobody puts tablets in there.
 
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(y)On my list of things todo. Just ordered the K1766 test kit.

Next need to find the correct type of salt to buy. looks like there are multiple types and forms (pellets, fine granules). Circupool instructions say "use only evaporated, granulated, non-iodised salt". also needs to be pure salt (99%) for longevity of the cell.
what do you guys recommend getting and where to get it ?

also coming back to my set up, is it preferable to drill a hole in the 90 as i planned for the MA injection or better to install a T socket with a plug to screw in the injection check valve ?

in regards to the check valve that I plan on installing, is there a particular type to get ? my PCV pipe is 2". I was looking at the below valve ; what does 2" to 2 1/2 mean ? Is that valve really necessary, as there seems to be different arguments about the need or not.

Jandy Type Swing Straight Check Valve 2in. – 2.5in. 7305​

jandy-pool-spa-plumbing-swing-check-valve-2in-2-5in-7305-600x600.jpg
 

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JB007 said:
(y)On my list of things todo. Just ordered the K1766 test kit.

Next need to find the correct type of salt to buy. looks like there are multiple types and forms (pellets, fine granules). Circupool instructions say "use only evaporated, granulated, non-iodised salt". also needs to be pure salt (99%) for longevity of the cell.
what do you guys recommend getting and where to get it ?
Click to expand...
Diamond Crystal Solar Salt, blue bag, HD or Lowes.
JB007 said:
also coming back to my set up, is it preferable to drill a hole in the 90 as i planned for the MA injection or better to install a T socket with a plug to screw in the injection check valve ?
Click to expand...
I've done both and both work. I prefer the T for maintenance.
JB007 said:
in regards to the check valve that I plan on installing, is there a particular type to get ? my PCV pipe is 2". I was looking at the below valve ; what does 2" to 2 1/2 mean ? Is that valve really necessary, as there seems to be different arguments about the need or not.

Jandy Type Swing Straight Check Valve 2in. – 2.5in. 7305​

Click to expand...
Outside of fitting is for 2.5" pvc, inside fits 2" pvc. Where are you putting this, will help if you need it or not...
 
Thanks for the salt info.
on that subject, the pool was replastered about 4 weeks ago now, is it safe to add all that salt now or should i hold onto for another couple of weeks.

the check valve is going next to the circupool flow switch, actually right before it.
I read some people saying you need to have a check valve to prevent chlorine to get back into your heater and others say it is not necessary.
do you really think chlorine water can go back up the pvc pipe into the heater ? i can hardly see it how, but then some may have had issues and that is why they recommend it. Just not sure how necessary it actually is. Overkill ???
 
JB007 said:
the check valve is going next to the circupool flow switch, actually right before it.
I read some people saying you need to have a check valve to prevent chlorine to get back into your heater and others say it is not necessary.
Click to expand...
Only with a puck chlorinator do you need the check valve. You also want 12" of free flow before the switch. Go back and read the manual. Put the switch at the END of the run on top of the 2x4 to get 12" of flow before it. Eliminate the check valve.

You should be good to go to add the salt after 30 days. What startup protocol did they use?

www.troublefreepool.com

Start-up New Plaster

The first few months are the most criticle for a newly plastered pool. We're here to share best practices to ensure the plaster will last for many years.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
got plenty of space if i do not need the check valve. more than the 12"

don't ask me about start up protocol. Pool contractor was planning to use the Orenda method with the tank set up; but they never tested the fill water (they are telling me they did, but I tested it multiple times with my Taylor kit and went to Leslies to check it); fill water Alkalinity was 220-230; the PC used 125. So from the getgo they were off by 100 when they set up the tank. Result : once fill up was done, TA was 210-220 (PC measured at 180, lol)

So, 1st day they added 2 1/2G of acid at one time ; PH dropped way below 7 (had no color when i tested it for 2 days), then they added Soda Ash to bring alkalinity up to add another load of acid the next day. Overall within the first 5 days, we went from one extreme (-0.9) to the other (+ 1.24) for the LSI. Just a full YoYo game for 5 days.
I took it over on day 5 (TA was still at 190 then), and using the LSI method, tried to stay in range to lower the alkalinity step by step; took me almost 3 weeks to get to 120, now at 80-855. Tested daily with daily MA addition in small increments. Was a pain, but I stayed between -0.1 and +0.4 for the LSI everyday (with the exception of 2 days where I was not able to get to the pool and where my LSI jumped to .6 and .9).

Lesson learned : Make sure YOU know how to do a proper start up and don't trust the PC/PB to do it. They will sell you the process, cheat you on the testing they do and you don't even know it (unless you have educated your self before). I learned most all on this site and thru the Orenda web site.
These 5 first days and the full 28 days are crucial for the longevity of your plaster. Re-Plastering is a big expense, the price to pay for learning and doing the start up yourself is a small price to pay.
 
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JB007 said:
what do you guys recommend getting and where to get it ?
Click to expand...
I found the best price to be HD (at least in my area) as they have "bulk" pricing. I think you have to buy something like 4 or more bags to save a few bucks
 

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