It's probably out of square. You can take the door out and try lightly sanding the tight spots. Maybe @ajw22 had ideas too.
Having a pool built and need advice
- Thread starter voidpointer
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,111
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Where will I see this? On the panel? Or in the aqualink web interface? If the latter, where do I navigate to?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,111
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Ok well I set rpm to 600 and I don't see any indication of no flow in the web interface. This is what the status page says. Maybe low salt takes precedence? This is why I asked where to find it...
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,111
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Ok looking at the aquapure user manual, and a picture of my equipment panel, looks like you can only see it physically on the box which is unfortunate. At least, I didn't see a way to see it in aqualink. There is a physical LED for it though.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,111
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the weir doors. Googled some videos but they are for doors that do not match mine.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Sadly I don't think I know what model number they are. I checked my equipment list too, it's not in there. I'll try to take some pics.
EDIT: found it (color is different but same part number): Pentair 506382 ABS 2-Inch Slip Port Bermuda Gunite Pool and Spa Skimmer, Tan https://a.co/d/1qUXIVO
EDIT 2: Now that I knew the skimmer model, I was able to find out how to remove the doors. I got them filed and now they do not jam anymore. However, the skimmer flaps do not bounce up and down like I thought was normal? They mostly stay down, below the surface of the water, and I observe a constant flow of water entering the skimmer. I think that flow is keeping the floating stuff from going back out. Is this considered normal skimmer behavior?
EDIT: found it (color is different but same part number): Pentair 506382 ABS 2-Inch Slip Port Bermuda Gunite Pool and Spa Skimmer, Tan https://a.co/d/1qUXIVO
EDIT 2: Now that I knew the skimmer model, I was able to find out how to remove the doors. I got them filed and now they do not jam anymore. However, the skimmer flaps do not bounce up and down like I thought was normal? They mostly stay down, below the surface of the water, and I observe a constant flow of water entering the skimmer. I think that flow is keeping the floating stuff from going back out. Is this considered normal skimmer behavior?
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Either the RPMs are too high or the water is too low. My new Haywards like to be 2/3 up the faceplate with very little room for error. My old haywards were very forgiving.
Shut the pump off and see if they stand straight up (or mostly up), if so the pump was set more than it needed to be for skimming. If the doors don't go up on their own with no flow, the water level is too low.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
What is "up"? I don't imagine you mean completely vertical. A picture of what position they should be in would help I think.
EDIT: Here are pictures of one of the skimmers with the pump off. The other one is the same. The water is definitely more than half way up. If this is normal then we're all good.
EDIT: Here are pictures of one of the skimmers with the pump off. The other one is the same. The water is definitely more than half way up. If this is normal then we're all good.
Last edited:
Closed. Yours appears mostly open with the pump off. I suspect you need a couple inches more water. The way skimming works is that the door closes (up) and the pump sucks the skimmer water until there is a big enough difference and the door drops. The pool water wooshes in in a flash taking any floaties with it. It's not as effective without the rush of water entering if it's a constant flow over the top of the weir door. Maybe all newer ones want more water now versus the traditional 'halfway up the skimmer plate' of old, or maybe it's just your model amd my model. Time will tell.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
How is this expected to be fully closed when all it has is the "pool noodle" material in it to make it float? There are no springs. No matter how much I search, I can't find a video or product manual that explains the expected behavior of the weir.
My uneducated assumptions are:
My uneducated assumptions are:
- When the pool is off, the top of the weir breaks the surface, which should prevent stuff from going back into the pool
- When water flows backwards, because of the previous point, the door should close further since there is water pressure pushing it backward and it is unobstructed
- While the pump is on, and no one is in the pool, there should be no need for the door to bounce up and down when there's a constant stream of water pressure coming in. Based on my observation, floating debris inside the skimmer tends to stay in there due to that flow of water.
- If people are in the pool creating "waves", I expect that is when the door would open and close. At least, growing up, that's how I remember them behaving.
The constant stream doesn't have as much pull as the big woosh. It does work, just not as efficiently.
Yes. Cannonballs and such will knock the door over before its ready to do it on its own, but that's such a slim window of the skimmers life.
Experiment both ways to find it's sweet spot. Maybe wait for a big storm to add a few inches for you and let it stay higher for a while to assess. For all that could be going on in the grand scheme of things, this one can wait for road testing.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
Oh I should have mentioned: There's a few concerns I have with raising the water level:
1. There's an overflow somewhere; I'm not 100% sure where but I feel like if it gets higher, it will flow over. There's probably some wiggle room, maybe? I don't know.
2. The autofill is set up right now to fill based on the current level. Maybe it can be adjusted, maybe it can't. If so, I'm not sure how.
3. The PB instructed to keep the water level at the middle of the waterline tile. Probably doesn't mean much, but I assume there's a reason?
4. Again without springs I'm not sure how raising the water level changes the issue. I am guessing what would happen is that the door would break the surface the same as it does now, just higher up. It's floating, it's not spring powered.
1. There's an overflow somewhere; I'm not 100% sure where but I feel like if it gets higher, it will flow over. There's probably some wiggle room, maybe? I don't know.
2. The autofill is set up right now to fill based on the current level. Maybe it can be adjusted, maybe it can't. If so, I'm not sure how.
3. The PB instructed to keep the water level at the middle of the waterline tile. Probably doesn't mean much, but I assume there's a reason?
4. Again without springs I'm not sure how raising the water level changes the issue. I am guessing what would happen is that the door would break the surface the same as it does now, just higher up. It's floating, it's not spring powered.
Find it just to know you'll be dumping anything over that point. It's usually a thumb sized pipe T'd out of a skimmer but with plaster it also might be hidden in a waterline tile seam somewhere.
Post up pics and/or a model # and whoever knows will walk you through it.
Likely because that was the way it always was. But like I said, I found the new model of my old skimmer behaved differently wanting more water and if the same is true for yours, it will take forever for the industry to change its recs accordingly.
I've never thrown one in the pool to see if it floats by itself but it does have at least some buoyancy to it. The foam helps raise it if the pump is keeping it down with high flow.
- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
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- Oct 8, 2020
- 543
- Pool Size
- 19440
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I want to set up spill over mode for my spa. Right now, any time the filter pump runs (for pool mode), the spa is spilling over. The spa has two return pipes: One for the bottom return (shoots straight up to the surface, and this is 100% open in pool mode). The second controls the return jets on the sides; this is completely OFF in pool mode.
If I understand spillover mode right, that means suction should come from the pool ONLY, and return water ONLY to the spa. Is that right? That means:
- Pool return jets should be off (maybe optional?)
- Spa (both returns I described) should be on (bottom + side return jets)
And then pool mode would mean no suction OR return in the spa:
- Suction in the pool is ON, and OFF in the spa
- Return jets for the pool are ON, and both returns for the spa are OFF.
I think I might have a plumbing issue if I'm right about all of that. Because of those two returns to the spa I talked about, only one of them is behind the JVA that turns when you go between spa/pool mode (on the return side):
Besides wanting this to avoid raising my pH unnecessarily, I also want the return jets for the spa to provide water so I can run the blower to "clean out" the dirt in the spa. However, right now I run the blower and water spills over the side of the spa in the back, creating a big mess and wasting water. My understanding is that it won't do this if I have water also coming out of the return jets in the spa, not just air.
Do I need to ask my PB to plumb the bottom return jet in the spa over to the side with the other spa return, so that they are both controlled ON and OFF at the same time by the existing JVA?
If I understand spillover mode right, that means suction should come from the pool ONLY, and return water ONLY to the spa. Is that right? That means:
- Pool return jets should be off (maybe optional?)
- Spa (both returns I described) should be on (bottom + side return jets)
And then pool mode would mean no suction OR return in the spa:
- Suction in the pool is ON, and OFF in the spa
- Return jets for the pool are ON, and both returns for the spa are OFF.
I think I might have a plumbing issue if I'm right about all of that. Because of those two returns to the spa I talked about, only one of them is behind the JVA that turns when you go between spa/pool mode (on the return side):
Besides wanting this to avoid raising my pH unnecessarily, I also want the return jets for the spa to provide water so I can run the blower to "clean out" the dirt in the spa. However, right now I run the blower and water spills over the side of the spa in the back, creating a big mess and wasting water. My understanding is that it won't do this if I have water also coming out of the return jets in the spa, not just air.
Do I need to ask my PB to plumb the bottom return jet in the spa over to the side with the other spa return, so that they are both controlled ON and OFF at the same time by the existing JVA?