Converting to SWG.

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7snorkel

7snorkel

Bronze Supporter
Mar 31, 2016
73
Plano, TX
Greetings, one and all.
A long time Bleach Guy is switching to SWG as the Liquid Chlorine market gets cloudy(?)

I have been increasing my CYA in preparation. Sock method. Still more to do. maybe to 65-70.
Gonna try and raise the CH to 425 or so to be in a safer zone. but may wait til water warms a bit as the CSI is a bit more negative than i really like.

Test results are:
FC - 7
TA - 60
CH- 350
PH - 7.6 and steady.
CYA 50.
Salt -2600
All test made with Taylor testing.

Temp: 63 degrees.

i have a few Q's.

My Salt level surprised me. Is this due to the current FC level of 7ppm?
at this rate, PoolMATH shows i only need to add 4 bags of salt. This seems off to me. However, i don't want to add too much.

I chose the CircuPool RJ=60 as i have a 22,000 gallon pool.
i uploaded the POOLMATH app, and all specs and current test results.
POOL MATH shows that 9 hrs of pump time at 50% will give me 4.1 ppm of FC a day. Single speed pump.
Does this sound right?


here's my pool pad. Also wondering where's the best location to install it?
and...Do i NEED a check valve?
I plan to have a pool guy i know install it. but, also want your advice beforehand.

anything else you think of, i'm all ears. and Thank you.
 

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7,

All pools tend to build up salt over time. A lot of people are surprised when they test the salt level in a standard chlorine pool and find it a lot higher than they thought it would be.

9 hours sounds about right to me at 50%..

You only need a check valve if you have a tablet feeder. A SWCG does not have anything that can flow back into the heater so no check valve is needed.

You would install the cell after the heater and before the Return valve.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Jimrahbe said:
7,

All pools tend to build up salt over time. A lot of people are surprised when they test the salt level in a standard chlorine pool and find it a lot higher than they thought it would be.

9 hours sounds about right to me at 50%..

You only need a check valve if you have a tablet feeder. A SWCG does not have anything that can flow back into the heater so no check valve is needed.

You would install the cell after the heater and before the Return valve.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Many Thanks, JR..
Looking forward to the “new pool.”
 
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7snorkel said:
A long time Bleach Guy is switching to SWG
Click to expand...
You're going to love it.

7snorkel said:
Gonna try and raise the CH to 425
Click to expand...
350 is fine. What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

7snorkel said:
My Salt level surprised me.
Click to expand...
My previous LC pool had a salt level of 5,000 (no SWG). Salt builds up over time. Yet, you will still find many PBs and owners who avoid SWGs because they fear a "salt" pool will cause damage.

7snorkel said:
Single speed pump.
Click to expand...
Have you thought about upgrading to a VSP? It pairs nicely with a SWG.

Since you're having plumbing done, consider adding a heater bypass (just need a three-way diverter and a check valve).

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
I have been away.... traveling. Gonna start on conversion this weekend.
Thanks for all your responses.:)


IMG_4202.jpg

i have space to put flow valve vertically and the Salt Cell horizontally. this should work fine, i believe.

I'm not a Master Electrician, but not afraid to do this myself......

Need to know, however, if i have 110 or 220 on my timer.
have the jumpers if needed to convert Unit to 110. if needed.

IMG_4196.jpgIMG_4197.jpg
 
The flow switch needs upflow or be horizontal so gravity doesn't close it one day when it fails.

You can use any leg that only has flow when the unit does, such as the pipe going into the heater.
 
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You could also put the flow switch on the horizontal section of pipe just downstream of where you've marked for an SWG cell location.

Is that a pool water temperature sensor on the heater outlet pipe? That seems like an odd location, I thought the temp sensor should be between the heater and the filter pump? Upon closer inspection, it just looks like a plugged hole in the PVC, perhaps a flow meter was once installed here?
 
7snorkel said:
New Dude. -- Picture above shows your suggestion. yes?
Click to expand...
Yup. That's the one. If water flowing into the heater activates the flow switch, that water is flowing out of the heater also through the SWG. It's easy to find a spot on simple setups. In complicated setups the choices are limited because some spots may have flow when the SWG doesn't.
 

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Newdude said:
Yup. That's the one. If water flowing into the heater activates the flow switch, that water is flowing out of the heater also through the SWG. It's easy to find a spot on simple setups. In complicated setups the choices are limited because some spots may have flow when the SWG doesn't.
Click to expand...
Great!
Thank you!
Gonna cut and dry fit pipe, first..

will update..
 
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7snorkel said:
I have been away.... traveling. Gonna start on conversion this weekend.
Thanks for all your responses.:)


View attachment 479633

i have space to put flow valve vertically and the Salt Cell horizontally. this should work fine, i believe.

I'm not a Master Electrician, but not afraid to do this myself......

Need to know, however, if i have 110 or 220 on my timer.
have the jumpers if needed to convert Unit to 110. if needed.

View attachment 479634View attachment 479635
Click to expand...
What is the timer currently controlling? What is that device’s voltage? (Aka- do you need to flip a double pole breaker or a single pole breaker to turn it off?)
Remove all the little covers so we can see the current wiring & take a pic- turn off the power 1st ⚡️
 
You may want to consider a heater bypass install while you are cutting pipes anyway.

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

For the SWG - the flow switch needs to be in a section of pipe (after the heater) where the water flow either runs horizontally or in an up direction. The water flow should never run in a down direction thru the flow switch.

You can install the flow switch after the SWG in the same horizontal run. This will provide sufficient straight pipe before the flow switch.
 
Found the breaker switch(double-pole).
It was marked as DISHWASHER on the panel….zzzz
Tested timer as well. 240V it is.

Looks like I’ll be replacing a Booster pump this weken as well.

Gonna replace plumbed PVC with hose on that. So, i’ll be gathering pvc adapters, etc. for this.
Will update. Thanks, all.
 
Well, i got the booster pump in without bumping my head on the timer box.

While i'm giving everything time to dry, i'm going over the SWG set up again, before cutting.

my original plan was Flow switch up top (yellow) and Cell down below (purple)
just double checking my plans. Should i be putting the SWGCell on that lower pipe ? OR Does it need to be on a higher pipe?

View recent photos.jpg


IMG_4253.jpg
Or should i repipe as shown in pic#2, and put both on same stretch of pipe.?
 
7,

As long as all the water going through the flow cell has to pass through cell, then it does not matter.

You just don't want any water that is going through the flow switch to be able to go somewhere other than through the cell.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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The yellow position is fine for the flow switch, but make sure to aim for as close to 12" as possible of straight run ahead of the switch (so install it close to the heater).

Also, picture #2 proposed modification is no good because you don't want your salt cell upstream from your heater.

Best wishes for a successful install!
 
Hello, all. Am all set up. water temp finally reaching levels to jibe with SWG.

SWG shows Salinity anywhere from 4000-3200, but at times says 0000... Does not give me a LOW SALT reading, however, so i assume it is performing. Not really cloudy in the See-Through Cell though.

i have used liquid chlorine to maintain FC levels for higher CYA during cooler water temps.
So, now that i turn the reigns over to SWG with these higher CYA levels, the FC/CYA ratio changes.
I'm a little uncomfortable that the green monster may show up.

other than testing to check FC, what else am i looking for to assure me that i'm good?
 
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